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Cosmetics on my 301 and 3009... unleash the opinions

B

biscuithead

Me likes the eargasm retroplasm...
I picked up a 301 a while ago. It was plinth-less, the mat was toast, switch broke, dirty, and the remnants of a Dust-Bug was stuck to it.

It came with many pieces, including the hardware to its original sprung plinth.

After fixing the few issues, I found an original plinth from the early sixties, and put it back in it’s home.

DA5302D4-3C67-4183-A8F9-CE6108DD5312.jpeg 1157728E-ED20-4EC4-AB9D-24B738708D48.jpeg DA764862-8AC3-46F9-8136-BC4E661AEC09.jpeg

I just hit the old plinth with two days worth of elbow grease and scotch-brite, then where all the wood was peeking through the paint I stained walnut, then two coats of matte clear. I like the scars.

CD87E8A6-84B3-460F-9786-DB3FE829D59A.jpeg F62A7741-62A5-4020-88CA-B8BA31297ABC.jpeg D8F25B2B-A740-4536-AB2D-14F31BB34176.jpeg 92ADC939-9CC3-45F5-98BB-7F1CA25476BB.jpeg 41D06230-65C3-4748-8775-6A03EEC70814.jpeg

The dollar is there to cover up a Dust-Bug stain.
I’ll come up with a better idea... maybe another Dust-Bug.
031C80FB-1D88-49E2-BA93-F1C1B1F07E02.jpeg Most excited about finding the original bias adjustment do-hicky for the series one 3009. The original family sent me the original manual where it taught me how to install the do-hicky... I think my string is too long.
 
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tubewade said:
It's beautiful. I'd be proud to own that, and I don't think the stain is that bad at all. Congratulations.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
In an effort to maintain originality, I think I’m going to try to find an original SME cable connection for the tone arm. I was going to send it in for a rebuild, but I’ve tested the original tonearm wires and they are solid. The cart connect contacts are nice too.
 
And it's worth a buck more with the bug mark concealer you have chosen. If the proper year, all I'd do is get one in as nice condition to the table, a survivor. Too bad they stopped dollars in the 30s and didn't restart in time for a proper year. Maybe a Ben Franklin half buck will work.

The a/s weight string if it doesn't bind can be long, causing puddling with arm in rest but weight in air when arm in use is fine. Manual is obviously showing arm most of the way across the record with the weight high and tight.
 
Looks fantastic. I really like original. For the dust bug stain, I think I used either isopropyl alcohol or goo gone to get the remains of one to dissolve. What a nasty thing those are to deal with! If you arent down to paint yet try either of those on a microfiber rag.

As for the SME, that bias adjustment is neat! Never seen one like that.
 
biscuithead said:
I picked up a 301 a while ago. It was plinth-less, the mat was toast, switch broke, dirty, and the remnants of a Dust-Bug was stuck to it.

It came with many pieces, including the hardware to its original sprung plinth.

After fixing the few issues, I found an original plinth from the early sixties, and put it back in it’s home.

View attachment 1423241 View attachment 1423242 View attachment 1423243

I just hit the old plinth with two days worth of elbow grease and scotch-brite, then where all the wood was peeking through the paint I stained walnut, then two coats of matte clear. I like the scars.

View attachment 1423244 View attachment 1423245 View attachment 1423247 View attachment 1423248 View attachment 1423251

The dollar is there to cover up a Dust-Bug stain.
I’ll come up with a better idea... maybe another Dust-Bug.
View attachment 1423253 Most excited about finding the original bias adjustment do-hicky for the series one 3009. The original family sent me the original manual where it taught me how to install the do-hicky... I think my string is too long.
Click to expand...
Tablecloth matches era :)
Chris
 
maxhifi said:
Looks fantastic. I really like original. For the dust bug stain, I think I used either isopropyl alcohol or goo gone to get the remains of one to dissolve. What a nasty thing those are to deal with! If you arent down to paint yet try either of those on a microfiber rag.

As for the SME, that bias adjustment is neat! Never seen one like that.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
I’ve used both of those chemicals... the original suction cup was glued on with unknown adhesive which resolved the red and allowed it to permeate into the enamel:(

I wonder if there were two iterations of the series one SME’s? The anti-skate looks like an after thought, that was then incorporated into the II.
 
Montycat said:
Nice! That's one of my serious "wants". :)

If you need a Dust Bug, let me know. I have a bunch.
Click to expand...


Thanks Monty! A couple years ago you helped me find another alternative to an Empire tone arm cable assembly... would you have any more magic up your sleeve for this SME? I could always just t-tap off of where the tonearm wires solder on to the back of the connector, but I’m exploring trying to build a connector myself. I’m thinking Delrin, hollow brass tube, epoxy, and micrometers.
 
I had a similar stain on a Marantz SL12-U. Worked it for some time with some ISO and eventually it went away. Took some elbow grease but it did come clean. Here I would worry about ruining the finish. Sometimes just better to leave well enough alone.
 
biscuithead said:
Thanks!
I’ve used both of those chemicals... the original suction cup was glued on with unknown adhesive which resolved the red and allowed it to permeate into the enamel:(

I wonder if there were two iterations of the series one SME’s? The anti-skate looks like an after thought, that was then incorporated into the II.
Click to expand...

The 301 is probably the only turntable I've ever worked on which I genuinely was sad to see leave. How is the mechanical state? I assume you've serviced the idler and main bearing already. The one I serviced needed both quite badly. There's something genuinely impressive about how fast that heavy platter comes up to speed, and then back to zero when the brake is applied.

For that stain, I would consider either bleach or hydrogen peroxide, saturate a piece of felt the size of the stain with either and keep it wet and on top of the stain for about 20 minutes, and see if it improves. I think you can make it way better with patience and care. I don't think either would actually lift the paint.
 
Many that have the SME arms with the odd connector remove them on the arm and install RCA jacks. The bay has kits, but I'm sure you could build something that will bolt on to the arm, allowing use of whatever cable you want.

The a/s does look like a later addition to that arm. Interesting to see the development of the arm as you look at the one without, this one and the later ones with the arm designed into the tonearm instead of just clipped on.
 
maxhifi said:
The 301 is probably the only turntable I've ever worked on which I genuinely was sad to see leave. How is the mechanical state? I assume you've serviced the idler and main bearing already. The one I serviced needed both quite badly. There's something genuinely impressive about how fast that heavy platter comes up to speed, and then back to zero when the brake is applied.

For that stain, I would consider either bleach or hydrogen peroxide, saturate a piece of felt the size of the stain with either and keep it wet and on top of the stain for about 20 minutes, and see if it improves. I think you can make it way better with patience and care. I don't think either would actually lift the paint.
Click to expand...
Peroxide! I’ve tried bleach, but not H202! Thanks!

I’ve done the main bearing, but not the idler. The wheel only has two hairline cracks, it’s been in a favorable climate for 50years. I did the rejuvenator thing.
 
That's a beautiful 301!

I personally think the cream/white units with the plain (non-strobe) platters are the sexiest of the bunch, prettier even than the coveted hammertone models.

Aside from the idler and the main bearing, you should consider overhauling the motor and cleaning/relubricating the mechanical bits underneath. That old grease and oil gums up over the years and turns into glue, causing the motor to run hotter than it should, and putting extra stress on the notoriously fragile switch levers.

You can do all this stuff yourself, of course, or you could farm it out to someone who really knows what they're doing. Chris Harban of Woodsong Audio overhauled mine for me, and I couldn't be happier with the work he did. Highly recommended!
 
Oh! and I meant to say that while the original plinth is neat and period correct and all, it's doing a disservice to that 301's real potential. :)
 
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