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Crites Kit for Forte II's

SG19

SG19

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I've been looking at Bob Crites silver capacitor kit for my Forte II's , it appears that the 100uF & 10uF capacitors are electrolytic replacements , while the smaller caps are poly for the rest of the crossover ? Even the gold kit appears to have electrolytic's for that those 2 caps ?

I see Affinity for Artifacts on ebay has a kit for the Forte II's that appears to be all poly caps , slightly higher price than the Crites but that stands to reason being all poly caps.

I know Crites is well renowned for his work with Klipsch , am I misidentifiying the caps in his kits or is there a reason he would prefer electrolytic for the woofer circuit in the crossover ?

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SG19 said:
I've been looking at Bob Crites silver capacitor kit for my Forte II's , it appears that the 100uF & 10uF capacitors are electrolytic replacements , while the smaller caps are poly for the rest of the crossover ? Even the gold kit appears to have electrolytic's for that those 2 caps ?

I see Affinity for Artifacts on ebay has a kit for the Forte II's that appears to be all poly caps , slightly higher price than the Crites but that stands to reason being all poly caps.

I know Crites is well renowned for his work with Klipsch , am I misidentifiying the caps in his kits or is there a reason he would prefer electrolytic for the woofer circuit in the crossover ?
Click to expand...
Why not call Crites and ask?
 
Spoke with Michael on Friday. Nice guy. I ordered a copper cap. Kit for my KG4s. One of the poly switches was opening up due to a shorted cap in the tweeter circuit. I don’t think I would be able to tell the difference between poly vs electrolytic caps. You might be able to though.
 
The 110uF is the shunt capacitor for the woofer. We use electrolytics at that position because Mylar or polypropylene won’t fit on the board.
 
Deang said:
The 110uF is the shunt capacitor for the woofer. We use electrolytics at that position because Mylar or polypropylene won’t fit on the board.
Click to expand...

I see they are vary large when you get into the higher ratings.
 
You can always bypass with a 1uF or something. May/may not be necessary to your ears, in that position. That's the fun of home-game experimenting.
 
Here is why.

Poly vs. electrolytic. The poly will be going in my Chorus II. I do not really believe there will be any SQ difference. I do believe the poly will have a much longer life within spec. It will match the life of the ither caps in the xover.

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I put electrolytics in my AL4 crossovers. Replaced all the Mylar caps larger than 4ufd with anti series (who knew that term?) 100v ELNA Cerafine connected as pseudo bipolar.
Replaced are the Mylar 4 ufd and smaller with hermetically sealed military caps with copper leads. Some PIO, some polycarbonate, some PP.
If the stock caps had been PP or PE might not have replaced.
GOTTA TWEAK SOMETHING. Standing still is prone to rust.
 
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