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Cross over capacitor question

Bratwurst7s said:
The sound quality improvement that you can get from using high quality crossover components can be very significant. You will get all kinds of different opinions on this and in the end the only way to really know for yourself is to try it yourself.

Going up in voltage with the caps is not a problem, do not go down in voltage rating. You can also use 2x 4µF caps in parallel to get 8µF.

Cheers,
James
Click to expand...

Cool I think I’ll try getting some caps in there that are a step up and compare the sound. Right now the KLH 24’s are the nicest sounding speakers I have and would like for them to sound the best they can.
 
So I have the RCA plug version of the KLH 24 sitting here and didn’t realize that it had two leads coming out of one end, and just one lead on the other.

how should I wire this with the new cap which just has one lead only on each end ?


31686EED-E3A1-4405-928E-C36F62920015.jpeg
 
Also I just saw that it says 16uf on one side of this but 8uf on the other. Which I saw originally to order my replacement 8uf cap but now I’m extra confused on how to wire this and if I need just one 16uf cap or if the one 8uf is fine still or if I need two of those
 

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hornbostel said:
You need two capacitors for each speaker. One 8 uF and one 16 uF.
Click to expand...

it feels like it would easier to wire this up if both caps were non polarized but parts express only has a cheaper polarized 16uf 450v electrolytic cap or a Soren 16uf 400v poly cap non polarized for obviously more money.

I’m fine with the cheaper one but might need guidance on wiring it up correctly or maybe just clarifying archie’s direction, when he refers to “(red wire common)” I’m a little confused which red wire that is.
 
bluepine27 said:
it feels like it would easier to wire this up if both caps were non polarized but parts express only has a cheaper polarized 16uf 450v electrolytic cap or a Soren 16uf 400v poly cap non polarized for obviously more money.

I’m fine with the cheaper one but might need guidance on wiring it up correctly or maybe just clarifying archie’s direction, when he refers to “(red wire common)” I’m a little confused which red wire that is.
Click to expand...

I concur with @bluepine27.. procure an OK-to-decent, yet affordable, 8 uF cap (such as a Dayton 5% poly) and then use a cheaper electrolytic (Dayton) for the 16 uF. The latter cap handles the woofer while the former the tweeter. No reason to overspend on the woofer leg cap, especially for these speakers. You (probably) won't notice a difference in sound, but certainly a difference in your wallet.

I outfitted my two pairs of KLH 20's (4 ohm versions of the KLH 17... also with RCA speaker connector) with Dayton electrolytics for all capacitors when I refurbished them. They sound absolutely just fine to me, especially driven by the KLH 20 all-in-one receivers that I have for each of these pairs of speakers. I used Dayton poly caps on my KLH 6 and 23's. But these are in a bit different league sound and performance-wise and it was worth the few extra bucks for better caps.

I also have a pair of early-version KLH 22's, which are basically the same as your KLH 24. Except the 22's were sold separately while the 24's (like my KLH 20's above) were sold as part of an all-in-one receiver-turntable combo system. The crossover circuit in my 22's is a simple system consisting of a single inductor and a 4 uF capacitor (the crossover circuit might have been changed in the KLH 22/A model, but I am not sure). I used some electrolytic caps I had on hand at the time (two 2uF caps wired in parallel, to achieve 4 uF) and these little guys sound awesome.

The KLH 22 was KLH's attempt to compete with the highly successful Acoustic Research AR-4x. Similar size, nice wood veneered cabinets, both 8" woofers, etc. I have a pair of AR 4x's, and they are in a whole different league sound-wise IMO, at least in terms of bass extension. But the KLH 22/24 is still a very good speaker. Works great in a small room or as a desk-top speaker, which I've used my KLH 22 for. I won't be parting with my KLH 22's anytime soon!
 
hornbostel said:
I concur with @bluepine27.. procure an OK-to-decent, yet affordable, 8 uF cap (such as a Dayton 5% poly) and then use a cheaper electrolytic (Dayton) for the 16 uF. The latter cap handles the woofer while the former the tweeter. No reason to overspend on the woofer leg cap, especially for these speakers. You (probably) won't notice a difference in sound, but certainly a difference in your wallet.

I outfitted my two pairs of KLH 20's (4 ohm versions of the KLH 17... also with RCA speaker connector) with Dayton electrolytics for all capacitors when I refurbished them. They sound absolutely just fine to me, especially driven by the KLH 20 all-in-one receivers that I have for each of these pairs of speakers. I used Dayton poly caps on my KLH 6 and 23's. But these are in a bit different league sound and performance-wise and it was worth the few extra bucks for better caps.

I also have a pair of early-version KLH 22's, which are basically the same as your KLH 24. Except the 22's were sold separately while the 24's (like my KLH 20's above) were sold as part of an all-in-one receiver-turntable combo system. The crossover circuit in my 22's is a simple system consisting of a single inductor and a 4 uF capacitor (the crossover circuit might have been changed in the KLH 22/A model, but I am not sure). I used some electrolytic caps I had on hand at the time (two 2uF caps wired in parallel, to achieve 4 uF) and these little guys sound awesome.

The KLH 22 was KLH's attempt to compete with the highly successful Acoustic Research AR-4x. Similar size, nice wood veneered cabinets, both 8" woofers, etc. I have a pair of AR 4x's, and they are in a whole different league sound-wise IMO, at least in terms of bass extension. But the KLH 22/24 is still a very good speaker. Works great in a small room or as a desk-top speaker, which I've used my KLH 22 for. I won't be parting with my KLH 22's anytime soon!
Click to expand...

Good to know which cap value is for the tweet and woof, thanks for that. I changed out the original caps with cheap ones in a set of 24's (speaker wire posts) i got with this RCA 24 and the sound cleared up a great bit, first speaker I ever recapped. I did order a cheap 8uf and also a cheaper 16uf to see what the difference will be in this speaker My one 24 has a busted tweeter and sounds a little more hissy than the other speaker wire speaker so I'm hoping even though they take different caps the sound will be close enough with the RCA one and the good speaker wire one.

But yes, they are good sounding speakers. bass felt more detailed and dropped below my other speakers. They sound pretty wholesome, and honest to me.
 
bluepine27 said:
Good to know which cap value is for the tweet and woof, thanks for that. I changed out the original caps with cheap ones in a set of 24's (speaker wire posts) i got with this RCA 24 and the sound cleared up a great bit, first speaker I ever recapped. I did order a cheap 8uf and also a cheaper 16uf to see what the difference will be in this speaker My one 24 has a busted tweeter and sounds a little more hissy than the other speaker wire speaker so I'm hoping even though they take different caps the sound will be close enough with the RCA one and the good speaker wire one.

But yes, they are good sounding speakers. bass felt more detailed and dropped below my other speakers. They sound pretty wholesome, and honest to me.
Click to expand...

If it was me, I would buy just the 8uF caps. Usually you get a quantity discount when you buy some arbitrary number of the same thing, at least on PE. So,if I had say 10 decent 8uF caps I could replace the following values: 8uF obviously, but also 16uF (two 8uF in parallel), 32uF (4 8uF in parallel) and 4 (two 8uF in series). Never hurts having a few extra to play with...
 
bluepine27 said:
View attachment 2202626

Can anyone confirm that I wired this right?
Yellow Wire > resistor > 8 uf cap (bipolar) > positive end of 16 uf cap (both positive side of 16 uf and 8 uf are connected to both other red wires > negative side of 16 uf > blues wires

let me know if the 16 uf cap needs flipped or if any of this needs to be wired differently
Used this thread as direction :
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klh24-series-2.196117/#post-2289361
Click to expand...


Was wondering if I could get verification on this wiring for putting in a single Non polarized 8 uf and single polarized 16 uf cap to replace the weird combo cap that was default in these KLH 24 series II. I followed the thread description I mentioned above but not feeling certain. I tried a continuity test with the multi meter in a few spots and got beeps but didn’t know if it could still be wired wrong with signal passing through

Any help from some 24 series II people would be appreciated
 
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