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CT-F950 broken...

jleon92f

Addicted Member
CT-F950 Problem...??

Hi Gang,

I was playing my CT-F950 when it shut off? So I cleaned the tape path, it's been a week. I put the tape back in, and the same thing? The take-up spool is not turning? Need to open and check?

So , I pulled another Pioneer favorite out of mothballs... The CT-F1000 that I had in storage. She still works fine.

Need to look at the 950? Any idea's on why it failed so soon?:scratch2:

John.:music:
 
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Take off the lid and see if the motor turns, or if the belt is broken. If the motor doesn't turn, see if there is voltage to the motor. Do the reels turn in fast mode (FF or REW)?

If the unit stops randomsly, but sort of plays until it stops, the reel motor rebuild may need a touch-up. If it is the unit I did for you, and the motor needs a touchup, ship down. You handle shipping and I'll just revisit the motor. Ship the little reel motor belt with it.

Enjoy,
Rich P
 
Thanks Rich,

I will open it up and see what happened, it was playing great ALL this time?
I think it is the belt because of how sudden it stopped? I think it will need new pinch rollers this time though.:scratch2:

I will let you know when I take it apart.
Hey,
Happy Labor Day! Weekend !Everyone!:banana:
John.:music:
 
Hi,

I opened her up, everything looks OK? I put a tape in and it played? I guess I will have to put it in my room system for a while to see what happens.:scratch2:

Later,
John:music:
 
I remember when the Flouroscan meter decks first came out that there was a model that had chronic problems with stopping when it wanted to, it was either the 900 or the 950. Does anyone else remember? I am curious as I am looking at a CT-F950 that a friend wants to sell.
 
I think these kind of devices (with rollers and shafts and levers and springs etc) are helped by some "percussive maintenence" occasionally.
Like with a car, sometimes you need to rev it out to blow the cobwebs out, so to speak.
Percussive Maintenance involves giving it a hit. Or raising one side an inch and dropping it.

Not everyones cup of tea I guess but when i hear someone say "i just pulled it apart then put it back together and it worked" I know they have unwittingly applied some percussive maintenance.
 
I think these kind of devices (with rollers and shafts and levers and springs etc) are helped by some "percussive maintenence" occasionally.
Like with a car, sometimes you need to rev it out to blow the cobwebs out, so to speak.
Percussive Maintenance involves giving it a hit. Or raising one side an inch and dropping it.

Not everyones cup of tea I guess but when i hear someone say "i just pulled it apart then put it back together and it worked" I know they have unwittingly applied some percussive maintenance.

I had a receiver that required "percussive maintenence" about once every 3 months. It worked that way for about 10 years!
 
I remember when the Flouroscan meter decks first came out that there was a model that had chronic problems with stopping when it wanted to, it was either the 900 or the 950. Does anyone else remember? I am curious as I am looking at a CT-F950 that a friend wants to sell.

The F900 I bought in the late 70's never had that problem. Still doesn't!:tresbon:
 
Please don't bounce these TOTL Pioneer decks around. I can't think of any malfunction that would be corrected by such treatment (only various kinds of harm).

Open her up and get her into play mode. Repeatedly apply pressure (on the motor pulley) enough to momentarily stop the reel motor. If should start right back up when released. If it ever fails to start right back up, it simply has a small dead spot, which can be corrected by retouching the motor rebuild. Not a big problem for me.

If the motor is not the problem, the reel idler may have found its way into a funny position, which has cleared. The only way to know is to open her up and play until you can duplicate the problem, then see what the cause is.

You've got enough invested in her not to just put her on the sidelines. Follow on through and she will sing nicely once again. Be nice to her. She is almost 30 years old.

Rich P
 
I remember when the Flouroscan meter decks first came out that there was a model that had chronic problems with stopping when it wanted to, it was either the 900 or the 950. Does anyone else remember? I am curious as I am looking at a CT-F950 that a friend wants to sell.

Yeah! the CTF900 had a weak pulley spring which led to weak spooling and take up, causing shut off. Pioneer were quick with a modification, new stronger spring and normally replacing the pulley too. The 950 had the stronger springs from start.
 
CT-F900 transportation torque fix.

I am looking at the CT-F900 service manual that I own. At the back of it there is a "Service Information" bulletin stapled to it. It came from US Pioneer Electronics Corp and distributed to the repair shops. It says as follows [Items between brackets and in italics are my own:]

Open Quote
Model: CT-F900, CT-F800
Subject: Low Tape Transportation Torque.

Since the CT-F900 was introduced back in May 1978 several changes have been made to improve the transportation torque.

This information is to introduce a very easy, very effective, efficient and therefore, economic method that has proven to be reliable by our New Jersey branch repair department's two year experience.

In New Jersey, more than 95 percent of the CT-F900's torque problem has been solved by this very simple method.

Here is it's know how:

1. Preparation:
A. Permatex Belt Dressing (part number 120DA)
Made by Permatex Company, Inc.

[Permatex Belt Dressing (or equivalent) is still available today from auto parts supply stores.]

The Permatex Belt Dressing, originally in a spray can, must be transferred to another container so that a proper amount can be supplied to the proper part.

B. Remove top cover and front panel and also remove the half holder (RNK-556) and brake plate so that the work can be done properly.

[Then drawings of the brake plate and the half holder follow. For those who don't know what the half holder is: It's a plastic part that is curved and that is placed right above where the cassette to be played is inserted. It has a spring attached to it to keep it down. You feel the spring when you insert the cassette and have to push up against the half holder to get it in place.]

2. Before applying the belt dressing:
Clean idler (RNK-561,) take-up pully assembly (RXA-998,) and both supply and take-up reel bases with 91% isopropil alcohol "Rite Aid" (See Fig.2)

[Then follows a drawing of the transport assembly, front view, with arrows pointing to the Supply reel, the take-up reel and the idler.]

Scrape any contamination off from the take-up pully assembly.

3. Apply a small amount of Permatex Belt Dressing to:
Idler (RNK-561,) TU belt (REB-271,) sensing belt (REB-272) (See Fig. 3.)

[Figure 3 is an exploded view of the transport assembly taken from the service manual and where these belts and pulley are highlighted.]

Do not apply to to capstan belt (REB-270) or sub-belt (REB-289) (See Fig. 4.)

[Figure 4 is an exploded view of the transport assembly taken from the manual and where the capstan belt and the belt between the two flywheels are highlighted.]

Above procedure should be effective to restore proper amount of torque on most of the CT-F900's.

Here is some additional information worth noting:

1. Excessive wow-flutter may be caused by accumulation of Powdered Plastic Deposits on the felt pads in the reel base assembly, (RXB-001, RXA-999.)
In such a case, take reel base assembly apart and clean the deposits off.

A very similar case is also possible with the felt pad in the idler arm full assembly.
2. Permatex Belt Dressing is effective not only with CT-F900, but also many other cassette decks.

Caution:
Pioneer cassette decks, CT-F4141, 5151, 6161, 7171 and 2121 that use "Idler A assembly" may require a minor spring adjustment when belt dressing is applied. The spring for rewind lever, RBH-189 must be extended to reduce the spring tension. Due to, too strong a grab of the idler A stored by belt dressing, idler A may jam itself in if it is not reduced and will cause a slow FF and RW.

If reducing the tension is not enough, replace the idler, it may be worn down.
End Quote.

In another service bulletin thay say the belt dressing should be applied with a small brush or the tip of a flat blade screwdriver but never sprayed on.

Now, remember the above info was distributed in the late 70's and all belts were practically new then. Now we're almost forty years later and I recommend that you change all your belts first. Then, if you still have problems, you may look at this service bulletin. I tried it about three months ago and it worked great for me!

Hope this helps.

Olivier.
:tresbon:
 
Please! Do not put Permatex on surfaces in your Pioneer decks. I have heard this before, but it is NOT necessary with these models, and it makes a big mess, accumulates grime, gets goo all over everything.

Do what you want with your own machines, but you have been warned.

Rich P
 
Please! Do not put Permatex on surfaces in your Pioneer decks. I have heard this before, but it is NOT necessary with these models, and it makes a big mess, accumulates grime, gets goo all over everything.

Do what you want with your own machines, but you have been warned.

Rich P

I used to sell Permatex items at an industrial seal company that supplied the local steel mills. Permatex belt dressing is for automotive and industrial belt applications only, where mess and grime are the norm. Unless you want to take apart your deck every few months for cleaning, then I would recommend staying away from it as pustelniakr has advised. If you are going to use it then I would dress the belt (away from the deck of course) and let it sit for a few days. Then carefully wipe it down being careful not to over stretch it and then install it, which is probably what the Pioneer service guys did. Please also keep in mind that this is only a temporary solution. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
Please don't bounce these TOTL Pioneer decks around. I can't think of any malfunction that would be corrected by such treatment (only various kinds of harm).

Open her up and get her into play mode. Repeatedly apply pressure (on the motor pulley) enough to momentarily stop the reel motor. If should start right back up when released. If it ever fails to start right back up, it simply has a small dead spot, which can be corrected by retouching the motor rebuild. Not a big problem for me.

If the motor is not the problem, the reel idler may have found its way into a funny position, which has cleared. The only way to know is to open her up and play until you can duplicate the problem, then see what the cause is.

You've got enough invested in her not to just put her on the sidelines. Follow on through and she will sing nicely once again. Be nice to her. She is almost 30 years old.

Rich P

Hi Rich,

I have the cover off and I am playing tapes till it dies again,(I got 60 tapes from eBay) it may never happen again, I hope.:scratch2:

John.:music:
 
Please! Do not put Permatex on surfaces in your Pioneer decks. I have heard this before, but it is NOT necessary with these models, and it makes a big mess, accumulates grime, gets goo all over everything.

Do what you want with your own machines, but you have been warned.

Rich P

Ha! ha! This is funny. That's how Pioneer used to fix their decks!
 
I feel redeemed finding out that the factory used Permatex belt dressing as a "repair". When Rich masterfully refurbished my 950 he remarked there was auto belt dressing blown all over the transport. The unit was repaired under warranty for the "stops" and that is most probably their fix. I always thought Rich thought I did this funky fix. Not guilty.

She is still running sweet the Rich way.
 
Still Playing??

Hi,

It's still going strong? Ithink maybe after it was rebuilt I did not play it enough?

Who Knows with this stuff, It sounds sweet right now..:scratch2:

OMG, a Glenn Frye Tape...


Later,
John.:music:
 
Shortly after I bought my 950 in the eighties, it started with the shutoff problems. It ended up in the shop where the tech used and explained the Pematex Belt Dressing route to me. I was charged for this "repair". After a short while the problem continued and I tried the belt dressing again. It was no help. After a bit of analysis on my own I isolated the problem to one place, the tape spindles themselves. Inside the spindles, there is a sort of clutch affair. Its purpose is to keep the tape from breaking if the tape jams. As we all know, if the reels stop moving on those decks, they shut themselves off. I used the belt dressing on the spindle. This bought me a year or two before the problem recurred. At that time i ordered two sets of replacement spindles from Pioneer and have not had trouble since then. I still have one pair taped inside as a spare. I haven't used my tape deck much in the past ten years however. The spindles can be disassembled and the clutch parts can be roughened with small grit sandpaper. This also works but is a royal PITA. This may be what is happening with your machine now. Finding replacement spindles may now be a real issue.
 
Shortly after I bought my 950 in the eighties, it started with the shutoff problems. It ended up in the shop where the tech used and explained the Pematex Belt Dressing route to me. I was charged for this "repair". After a short while the problem continued and I tried the belt dressing again. It was no help. After a bit of analysis on my own I isolated the problem to one place, the tape spindles themselves. Inside the spindles, there is a sort of clutch affair. Its purpose is to keep the tape from breaking if the tape jams. As we all know, if the reels stop moving on those decks, they shut themselves off. I used the belt dressing on the spindle. This bought me a year or two before the problem recurred. At that time i ordered two sets of replacement spindles from Pioneer and have not had trouble since then. I still have one pair taped inside as a spare. I haven't used my tape deck much in the past ten years however. The spindles can be disassembled and the clutch parts can be roughened with small grit sandpaper. This also works but is a royal PITA. This may be what is happening with your machine now. Finding replacement spindles may now be a real issue.

Hi,

Thanks for that info, I like the machine.. It looks and plays great when playin..And I want to add, this is playing through my SX-850 amp..

Those spindles are worth gold $$$$$$$ My good buddy my bestest friend in the world...You know what I mean. :yes:
I buy a few spare decks as parts to keep One running..:thmbsp:

Later,
John:music:
 
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