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Curbed Rectilinear - Now what ...

mr. biggles, i'm not sure what value caps you need for the crossovers, but if i remember correctly (when i dealt with a pair of highboys years back), they had a few caps with low value such as 2uf and one high value around 50-80uf?

i usually use cheaper caps with old stock oil caps to bypass them, and get great results. if you want to try this, i have some old stock bathtub oil caps. i'll send them to you for free if you want. just send me a pm with your address. i have used these same caps in recapping altec, jbl, and even tannoy crossovers with awesome results.

btw, the oil cap value is 0.1uf - good enough for bypassing.



ok, one more thing:

i just went through some boxes of spare drivers, and found the philips driver that may work in place of your mid-driver - if you can't get it to work. only thing is - mine is 5060 instead of 5061 and needs surrounds resealed, but probably practically same driver - 8 ohms as well. if you need this let me know as well. i'll ship it out to you with the caps.
 

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relaximus said:
If you can't find any t-nuts locally, I've used these hurricane nuts from Parts Express and actually prefer them.
Dave
Click to expand...

Thank you Dave! Ya know, I've been thinking about that solution and the condition of the baffles. Those particle board baffles are in serviceable condition, for the most part. But using those t-nuts would absolutely require me to glue wood blocks underneath so they'd have something to bite in to rather than the 40 year old particle board. And now I'm thinking that I should actually have a new baffle made. I have the "patterns" and I know people second-hand that might be willing to cut me new ones. I just need to find some really snazzy wood. Something to think about over the next few days.

gogofast said:
mr. biggles, i'm not sure what value caps you need for the crossovers, but if i remember correctly (when i dealt with a pair of highboys years back), they had a few caps with low value such as 2uf and one high value around 50-80uf?

i usually use cheaper caps with old stock oil caps to bypass them, and get great results. if you want to try this, i have some old stock bathtub oil caps. i'll send them to you for free if you want. just send me a pm with your address. i have used these same caps in recapping altec, jbl, and even tannoy crossovers with awesome results.

btw, the oil cap value is 0.1uf - good enough for bypassing.



ok, one more thing:

i just went through some boxes of spare drivers, and found the philips driver that may work in place of your mid-driver - if you can't get it to work. only thing is - mine is 5060 instead of 5061 and needs surrounds resealed, but probably practically same driver - 8 ohms as well. if you need this let me know as well. i'll ship it out to you with the caps.
Click to expand...

G.G. Fast,

If you're willing to send me the oil caps and the midrange driver, I can surely use them. Please read the next post for some results from today's efforts.

xo, Biggles
 
RectilinearIII023.jpg

They live! They live. All drivers work as they should, for the most part. One of the midrange drivers has a failure in the surround, I repaired with some nail polish. That'll get me until Gogofast's replacement arrives.

In any case, these venerable beasts sound exceptionally good at first turn. The lows are smooth and comforting, the mids and the highs send sound all over my driveway (in a good way). I had them outside, misplaced and not pointed in any one direction. Standing 10 feet away they made me want to sit down, close my eyes and float away. I can't imagine what they'll be like with a recap and the funky midrange replaced.

And brother, or sister, when I read and was told the midrange driver does A LOT of work in these speakers, everyone was correct. They work nearly as hard as the woofers do, physically and sonically.

Okay, enough of that. Now I need to pull them back to pieces and sand my heart out and make nice.

Thank you to everyone here, you helped!

xo, Biggles
 
nice to see someone giving a lot of time and efforts into these speakers. i'll ship out those caps and driver today. oil caps have three leads: one lead is marked "c" for common at the bottom. the other two leads are each 0.1uf, but i'm shipping four of them so that you can use just one in each place without having to share the "c" common's. as for the driver, it works fine, but cosmetically might not be better than yours. like i said, needs cloth surrounds re-sealed - just like those klh speaker woofers.

good luck with the rest of restoration and like many other have already expressed, you are awesome for restoring them! :thmbsp:
 
Great thread. I was going to mention one more type of thread insert as an alternative to T-nuts: the brass insert nut.

Sell_Brass_knurled_insert_nut.jpg


You can get these at most hardware stores. Might not be just what you need for this project, just wanted to mention it.

Nice work!
 
toxcrusadr said:
Great thread. I was going to mention one more type of thread insert as an alternative to T-nuts: the brass insert nut.

You can get these at most hardware stores. Might not be just what you need for this project, just wanted to mention it.
Nice work!
Click to expand...

Thank you! I will be going in search of these when I have new baffles made. The old baffles don't have enough wood left in them to support these fine rigs.

Biggles
 
gogofast said:
nice to see someone giving a lot of time and efforts into these speakers. i'll ship out those caps and driver today. oil caps have three leads: one lead is marked "c" for common at the bottom. the other two leads are each 0.1uf, but i'm shipping four of them so that you can use just one in each place without having to share the "c" common's. as for the driver, it works fine, but cosmetically might not be better than yours. like i said, needs cloth surrounds re-sealed - just like those klh speaker woofers.

good luck with the rest of restoration and like many other have already expressed, you are awesome for restoring them! :thmbsp:
Click to expand...

Yay and thank you! The little dears are still outside sounding like heaven on earth. All I would like to do for the rest of the day is spend my time in front of them, marveling.

Now I would like to find a pair of lowboys to restore.

Biggles
 
drbiggles said:
And now I'm thinking that I should actually have a new baffle made. I have the "patterns" and I know people second-hand that might be willing to cut me new ones. I just need to find some really snazzy wood. Something to think about over the next few days.
Click to expand...

If you do decide to get new baffles made, mirror image them so the drivers are symmetrical.

I did this to mine and it helps the imaging a lot.
 
Glue up some front to back 1X3s .
Extra cabinet bracing never hurts and you can screw down woofers into them.
Have fun!
 
just flip over one of the baffles. The routing for the midrange would need to be on the other side, of course.

picture.php
 
kirk57 said:
just flip over one of the baffles. The routing for the midrange would need to be on the other side, of course.
Click to expand...

Duh, okay. I knew what you were talking about, but the logistics of getting it done at that moment eluded me. I'm still all tingly with excitement over getting my pair working.
Thank you for the image!

xo, Biggles
 
A perfect example of a speaker that "shouldn't" sound good with all those tweeters all over the place....but apparently it does!
 
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