Annual bulk trash day, he shoots...he scores! 
EPI 100s with the inverted domes - just need refoam, will do caps and probably better wire too. Cabinets in nice shape, as are the grills. Didn't open them up but it seems they used 10uF. Confirm?
KLH Model 17s these are a bit rough overall but the drivers do work. Not the best sound right now, so I'll definitely need to recap. The attenuation switch seems to work however, so I doubt I'll replace the resistors unless there's a compelling reason to do so with modern ones. The caps look to be paper and wax types, "Temple" from Mexico, and if you look closely at the one soldered to the switch, it has two leads coming out the one end, just one at the other. Is this just a jumper to ensure that the total capacitance load will always get to the tweeter regardless of switch position, and if so, could I rewire with the jumper across the switch terminals?
Is there anything else going on with this crossover? The caps are 2uF, 50V (at the switch) and 8uF 50V inserted in the wiring. When I redo them I'd like to just go with 1 10uF cap and keep everything neater at the back of the cabinet. I'm not sure how they came up with the crossover of 1500Hz, but does this wiring arrangement have something to do with it?
Also, the woofers are pretty dirty (see pic) what's the best way to clean this up? Could I use a light bleach solution to kill any mold/mildew that's getting ready to bloom, or would Lysol be better followed by a thorough drying on a sunny day to also expose to UV?
John

EPI 100s with the inverted domes - just need refoam, will do caps and probably better wire too. Cabinets in nice shape, as are the grills. Didn't open them up but it seems they used 10uF. Confirm?
KLH Model 17s these are a bit rough overall but the drivers do work. Not the best sound right now, so I'll definitely need to recap. The attenuation switch seems to work however, so I doubt I'll replace the resistors unless there's a compelling reason to do so with modern ones. The caps look to be paper and wax types, "Temple" from Mexico, and if you look closely at the one soldered to the switch, it has two leads coming out the one end, just one at the other. Is this just a jumper to ensure that the total capacitance load will always get to the tweeter regardless of switch position, and if so, could I rewire with the jumper across the switch terminals?
Is there anything else going on with this crossover? The caps are 2uF, 50V (at the switch) and 8uF 50V inserted in the wiring. When I redo them I'd like to just go with 1 10uF cap and keep everything neater at the back of the cabinet. I'm not sure how they came up with the crossover of 1500Hz, but does this wiring arrangement have something to do with it?
Also, the woofers are pretty dirty (see pic) what's the best way to clean this up? Could I use a light bleach solution to kill any mold/mildew that's getting ready to bloom, or would Lysol be better followed by a thorough drying on a sunny day to also expose to UV?
John