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Custom Seeburg 2a3/45/300b amplifier

Carbsandcaps

Super Member
I had recently acquire this seeburg push pull 2a3 push pull amplifier from the bay. It originally used a single 56 as the phono preamp then parallel 56’s as the driver for the 2a3’s. It did have the full set of tubes including a superglued Chinese 2a3 .IMG_9141.jpegIMG_9142.jpeg

I decided instead of trying to find another one I would convert this into a stereo single ended amplifier. And while I was at it why not make it switchable for a 2a3 and a 45 tube? Oh and I also just picked up these vu meters with built in control board and everyone loves vu meters so why not?

After some discussion on here I figured that a single 56 wouldn’t be enough for a 2a3 (still up for debate so don’t judge me for it) so I decided to use 2 56’s in series as drivers. The input socket just happened to be a 5 pin socket so putting another 56 in was no problem. A attempted a direct couple setup between the 56’s but just couldn’t get the voltages right so for time and sanity sake I decided to go capacitor coupled (crowd boos and hisses). Pretty straight forward design. I decided not to bypass the cathode resistors to keep gain down a little bit but even with that they may be a tad much for the 45’s but I’ll take the compromise for running the 2a3’s so well

I went with adjustable fixed bias by tapping into the main hv and using diodes to get the negative voltage, with an adjustment range of 0-76v using an L design. I put some old speaker terminals in backwards next to the adjustment pot to measure bias voltag from outside the chassis.

The power supply originally used a field coil speaker so with no other option I had to use 2 50 watt resistors, 1k and 470 ohm to ground to bring the plate voltage down to about 280v who’s is a little high for the 45’s but should be ok. Using the original choke in a clc setup worked perfectly.IMG_9368.jpeg

The vu meters were a simple install using a 1-3/4 hole saw and lots of cutting oil. Then they wire right to the speaker outputs. They work without power if you don’t want the backlights but of course I do so I just cut up a 12v power supply I had laying around and wired it to the power switch. The backlighting is adjustable (barely) and also the sensitivity which is critical when you’re only putting out 2 watts.


Now the final pieces, the output transformers. I stole an amorphous core set from a 300b amp that I built at least for the time being. They have a 2500k and a 3500k primary tap. I used the 2500k for the 2a3. They also have a 4,8 and 16ohm tap so I just wired a separate set of positive terminals to the 16 ohm to give me a 5000k primary for the 45’s.
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To switch from 2a3 to 45, just switch speaker terminals and set the bias from -45 to -56v and it’s ready to play. It sounds great! Even with the 45’s playing it has a surprising amount of power. The chassis cleaned up pretty well for being 85 years old. I’m pretty happy with how it came out.
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Just a small addition and then I’m done I swear! I put 2 switches in place of the extra speaker jacks for a cleaner look and easier switchover. IMG_9390.jpeg
 
I do booed to invest in them I was just trying to use what I have around. I do hate putting those bright plastic terminals on vintage stuff.
 
I do booed to invest in them I was just trying to use what I have around. I do hate putting those bright plastic terminals on vintage stuff.
Eh, it's ok it's on the back. :biggrin:
The meters look like they belong though mounted from the inside with the screw heads exposed.
 
I figured I went this far why not make it suitable for a 300b too? I already had the output impedance so all I’d need is 5v for a switchable heater supply. I went with my trusty old $10 Amazon 5v 5 amp power supply. Used a 9 pin 3 position switch to switch the heater voltages and center taps/ grounds. The original 2.5v used a center tap so when switching to the 5vdc power for the 300b it lifted the center tap and grounded the negative side of the heater for a path from cathodes to ground.IMG_9532.jpeg
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I had to move the sockets around since the the 300b’s were actually touching each other but man it sounds great!
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With multiple output impedance, switchable heater voltages and adjustable bias I was able to experiment a little and tried out 71a’s in the output spot. I was way over the maximum plate voltage of 180v but still got them to play. They sounded great too although they probably wouldn’t last long especially after I had the bias set for 180v plate voltage at -44v which made them red plate. I’ve never actually seen a triode red plate before.
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It also runs hot especially the power transformer which might be getting replaced soon but I cut out an opening in the cover and put some mesh in there to get some more air flow to the transformers. It definitely needs a fan on it too. I guess I’m done with it. For now.
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The 71A is not exactly a beefy thing, basically its a battery radio tube. Its actually very linear, would make a nice driver for a bigger tube so long as you don't really need any appreciable amount of gain.


here's an oddball possibility for you to try out though. Find a couple of 1619 tubes and triode-wire them. Need adapters to convert it from octal to a 4 pin socket, but supposedly when triode-wired they make a pretty good sub for a 45. The 1619 is a 2.5 volt directly heated 6L6.
 
An update on my now favorite amp. I’ve been using it consistently as my main amp for a while now. With the option of using different tubes it’s like a new amp every time.
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The power transformer has always ran hot. Very hot. Even after installing a fan it was still too hot, to the point where the room would smell of an overheating transformer any time it was on. I’m not sure if it was bad or just the way it was designed or what but I decided it was time to upgrade. I had plenty of transformers laying around but getting the right voltages was not easy. After another post on here looking for solutions and getting great ideas I decided to use one I had for the b+ and the 5v for the rectifier. Then use a separate transformer for the 2.5v filaments. Hammond makes a 2.5v 6 amp transformer which would work great. Since the driver tubes are indirectly heated and the power tubes use fixed bias, I could use one transformer for all the tubes without interference. I crammed everything inside including a larger choke since the original was also getting hot from the extra draw of the 300b’s. It’s a tight fit in there.
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The new transformer seems to put out less voltage but more amperage than the original which is perfect but still needed some tweaking. I ended up having to put yet another switch on the back for voltage control. There are 4 bleeder resistors. 470ohm 50 watt, 1k ohm 50watt, 2k 25 watt and 3k 25 watt. The switch bypasses the last 3k ohm resistor to lower the voltage by about 20-25 volts. This works out perfect for fine adjustments of the plate voltages since the 45’s and 2a3’s are running close to maximum plate voltages. The main voltage control is through different rectifiers. The 45’s use an 80, the 2a3’s use a 5z3 and the 300b’s use an 83 mercury vapor rectifier. I do believe the cooling fan is still necessary dues to the amount of stuff crammed in the top under the cover. It’s a super silent computer fan than you can’t hear unless you’re 6” from the amp.
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I also put together a tube holder using a chassis out of an old battery radio and the side panel of a Yamaha receiver so the tubes aren’t just rolling around on the table.
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