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dbx DX5 cd player belt tightening! (and others)

onanysunday

chasing realism
Subscriber
I have two of these amazing sounding 1987 cd players. Over time, the belts stretch out, causing disc loading/unloading issues which eventually makes them all unusable and happens to all belt driven cdps at some point. This tightening method can also be used on many other cdp's with a similar layout!

There's no information on the internet relating to the part number or size used for this belt. So, in order to know, you'd have to physically remove one to size it yourself so you could source a replacement which could then be shared with the community to make this whole process easier. Until then, it's anyone's guess what size belt is needed here to remove slack.

Also, the belt is very hard to access on these. You have to remove the front panel, remove the cd drive mechanism, flip it over, and then remove a gear from underneath to access the belt on one side, then loosen two screws holding the belt drive motor topside.

But I have found a solution which requires no parts. It may be temporary and not always work for everyone 100% of the time, but it got me (mostly) going and is better than nothing. It has made my cd load and play about 90% of the time versus 0%. If it doesn't work on the first button press, you just keep pushing 'eject' until it does.

1.) Remove the top cover. Turn it on, hit eject. If it struggles to open, coax the tray from the back with your finger. Turn it off with the tray out. Unplug it.

2.) Push the tray back in with your hand, approximately half way, until you can see and access the two screws holding the belt motor in place.

3.) Loosen the two screws just enough so they're no longer tight and then wedge something flat into the base of the motor spindle that you can pry against. I used a feeler gauge at its max single thickness.

4.) Stretch the spindle base as much as you safely can using your tool as a lever. Do not put any pressure on the top of the spindle. There is a plastic spindle guide or cutout at its base, limiting travel adjustment to <1mm. (May be more on other players) While gently prying it as far as it goes, re-tighten motor mount screws. That's it.

*Also while here, general maintenance to a cdp- if your belt motor is making noise, one drop of machine oil quiets things down as well any other tray loading pivot points that are not gear teeth coated in grease. Any plastic tray rails or friction points should be inspected and cleaned if necessary to allow the smoothest operation with the least friction necessary to allow the tray to load/unload. A q-tip rub with some windex over the laser lens is not a bad idea, as well as making sure your laser rail isn't gummed up with dried grease impeding smooth laser travel and is completely cleaned, leaving no lint behind, then lightly re-lubed with a thin film of white lithium grease spread over a q-tip then sparingly applied or spotted to the metal rail itself.

Another thing to check here if you have any laser read errors but only on certain beginning, middle, or end tracks of a cd, is to notice there are a group of 6 wires (on this model) connected to the laser assembly itself that are also attached to the pcb on the other end. The actual wires themselves move along with laser travel. Makes sure these wires remain "floating" in the air throughout the entire laser travel from beginning to end and are not touching any pcb components while moving up and down. My wires were binding up on some board components that were causing read errors on the first few tracks of a cd.

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Update: The fix is now working 100% of the time. Only reason it wasn't before was I had removed the front panel to clean all the switches and one of the front two rubber bumpers on the cd drive mechanism wasn't in place, causing a drive misalignment which made it harder for the tray to open.

This is really what everyone should be trying first before anything else because all you have to do is essentially remove the top cover and loosen a couple screws, pry, and re-tighten.
 
What is amazing is that this is 1987 technology and every cdp made after this without individual controls for things like Ambience, Compression, or their 'Digital Audio Impact Recovery' seems like an old-fashioned, non adjustable, one trick pony. Sure, newer ones have superior dacs and opamps on paper which can amount to increased detail on some of the finer equipment (which some get really hung up about) but many I've heard don't seem to have the "oomph" backing it up, and end up coming across as thin, sterile or cold even when using superior chips. It's not necessarily the DX5 has the best power section backing it up, (maybe it does) but it certainly makes you feel that way which makes it all the more satisfying and full-bodied.

It has that raw realness, that liveliness factor in spades. The best setting seems to be when only the first LF/HF leds start to flicker at times of normal emphasis within a song. That is to say, a boost of ambience and LF/HF dynamics without overdoing it, which is just enough to make it better sounding than most anything else much of the time.

DBX was ahead of its time, I can attest to that. When listening to this cd player, you certainly don't feel like you're missing anything. It's how I imagine all of my cds should ideally sound. I recap and tweak just about any piece of equipment I can get my hands on- except the DX5. For once, something is so satisfying I don't feel the need to mess with it. I can't find anything wrong with it when properly dialed-in that I would like to improve.

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Here are a couple photos of friction points that can be cleaned with a windex q-tip, followed by a light coating of machine oil on a q-tip afterwards. They're probably not that bad or have too big of an effect either way, but here they are in case you were wondering.

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Had to check Ebay and sure enough there is one listed as working but with issues opening the tray. Must be a common problem. What are all of those bells and whistles on the front? Ambience, compression and DAIR...
 
I hate to bum the party, but I have one and very fond memories of it; I retired it from service a decade ago. I hooked it up again a few days ago, searching for something "new" and refreshing in my sound (even though it's old). Very disappointing. I still like the Impact Recovery feature, but the sound of the CDP itself was flat, without nuance, depth, and other musical qualities. No "life".

To put it in perspective, my regular CDP I compared it to is just a mid-fi player made in 1994, 26 years ago, so I'm not comparing the DBX to some new Hi-End Wonder of the World.

Note: But I played the DBX cold. Maybe if I'd warmed it up.....
 
Maybe, maybe not. There could be something wrong with it. My two are exactly the opposite of what you describe. Mine both sound very similar to one another and sound like my non over-sampling Rotel RCD-855 with an upgraded clock, but better. It's easily the best redbook player I've heard. You really have to fine-tune the ambience and dair and engage them to get it at its best sounding. Go with what works! Everyone's equipment and preferences are different.

I will say I'm scared of all the pots these things have inside. I hope I'll never have to deal with them. If they ever need to be adjusted I'm screwed.
 
Had to check Ebay and sure enough there is one listed as working but with issues opening the tray. Must be a common problem. What are all of those bells and whistles on the front? Ambience, compression and DAIR...
Ambience increases soundfield. DAIR enhances dynamic impact or range at LF/HF, though it's technically labeled as "digital audio impact recovery". Agreed though, without "ambience" and "dair" activated and perfectly dialed-in, it's not the best redbook player out there. I don't use compression, it seemed to make everything sound worse when I tried it, so it stays off. My Rotel sounds better when not using the enhanced sound features of the dbx.
 
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I have two of these amazing sounding 1987 cd players. Over time, the belts stretch out, causing disc loading/unloading issues which eventually makes them all unusable and happens to all belt driven cdps at some point. This tightening method can also be used on many other cdp's with a similar layout!

There's no information on the internet relating to the part number or size used for this belt. So, in order to know, you'd have to physically remove one to size it yourself so you could source a replacement which could then be shared with the community to make this whole process easier. Until then, it's anyone's guess what size belt is needed here to remove slack.

Also, the belt is very hard to access on these. You have to remove the front panel, remove the cd drive mechanism, flip it over, and then remove a gear from underneath to access the belt on one side, then loosen two screws holding the belt drive motor topside.

But I have found a solution which requires no parts. It may be temporary and not always work for everyone 100% of the time, but it got me (mostly) going and is better than nothing. It has made my cd load and play about 90% of the time versus 0%. If it doesn't work on the first button press, you just keep pushing 'eject' until it does.

1.) Remove the top cover. Turn it on, hit eject. If it struggles to open, coax the tray from the back with your finger. Turn it off with the tray out. Unplug it.

2.) Push the tray back in with your hand, approximately half way, until you can see and access the two screws holding the belt motor in place.

3.) Loosen the two screws just enough so they're no longer tight and then wedge something flat into the base of the motor spindle that you can pry against. I used a feeler gauge at its max single thickness.

4.) Stretch the spindle base as much as you safely can using your tool as a lever. Do not put any pressure on the top of the spindle. There is a plastic spindle guide or cutout at its base, limiting travel adjustment to <1mm. (May be more on other players) While gently prying it as far as it goes, re-tighten motor mount screws. That's it.

*Also while here, general maintenance to a cdp- if your belt motor is making noise, one drop of machine oil quiets things down as well any other tray loading pivot points that are not gear teeth coated in grease. Any plastic tray rails or friction points should be inspected and cleaned if necessary to allow the smoothest operation with the least friction necessary to allow the tray to load/unload. A q-tip rub with some windex over the laser lens is not a bad idea, as well as making sure your laser rail isn't gummed up with dried grease impeding smooth laser travel and is completely cleaned, leaving no lint behind, then lightly re-lubed with a thin film of white lithium grease spread over a q-tip then sparingly applied or spotted to the metal rail itself.

Another thing to check here if you have any laser read errors but only on certain beginning, middle, or end tracks of a cd, is to notice there are a group of 6 wires (on this model) connected to the laser assembly itself that are also attached to the pcb on the other end. The actual wires themselves move along with laser travel. Makes sure these wires remain "floating" in the air throughout the entire laser travel from beginning to end and are not touching any pcb components while moving up and down. My wires were binding up on some board components that were causing read errors on the first few tracks of a cd.

View attachment 2147474 View attachment 2147475 View attachment 2147476 View attachment 2147477
Onanysunday..thanks for the belt tightening tip...works like a charm as you intimated......
 
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