DCM TF-600 Getting the Top Off
- Thread starter byoung334
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
elgato8905
Nobody special.
All of the TF-600's that I've ever heard of only have one 6.5 woofer per cabinet. I've never seen or even heard of a TF-600 that has two woofers in one cab and I've owned three sets of them.
ZeroG
Super Member
If it's anything like the TF-400s I had, the tweeter is mounted (slightly recessed into) on a square perforated metal grill that covers one of the woofers (so is coaxially mounted), so it may feel like there's only a tweeter there. But there are two woofers plus probably also a rear-firing tweeter, too.
Last edited:
elgato8905
Nobody special.
As far as drivers go... The TF-600's definitely have one woofer and three tweeters in each cabinet.
ZeroG
Super Member
I have not owned a pair of the TF-600s, just the TF-400s. But DCM itself lists TWO 6.5 inch woofers and 3 tweeters:
http://www.dcmspeakers.com/manuals/TF600.pdf
http://www.dcmspeakers.com/manuals/TF600.pdf
Last edited:
jnoyes
Super Member
I think this might explain the confusion;
http://www.daicompacific.com/DCM.htm[/URL
Unless you have had one apart it isn't obvious that there are two woofers.
Jon
http://www.daicompacific.com/DCM.htm[/URL
Unless you have had one apart it isn't obvious that there are two woofers.
Jon
byoung334
Active Member
After more "feeling" through the grill cloth, I now can see where the top woofer has the tweeter mounted in a perforated plate over the woofer. The link above shows the TF400 with the perf plate and tweeter removed for the top woofer. BTW amazing sound and imaging from the speakers. Surprising bass response.
thevic24
deep in sound thought
My TF600's have 2 woofers per cabinet as ALL of the TF600 have.
The front tweeter is mounted to a mettle/mesh grille. The first woofer is behind the mesh grille that the tweeter is attached to. The second woofer is just below that one.
To remove the top, take a small rubber mallet or hammer and a small piece of wood. Put the wood under the edge of the top and gently tap up. There are 2 plastic nipples that hold the tops on.
Once you get the tops off, just roll or fold the socks down. Keep in mind that there is a foam type layer under the socks that can make a mess if it is all dried up.
-Vic
KingBubba
"Too Much Stuff"
Knock the bottom off. I used two pieces of 2 x 4, one as the hammer and one as the punch, on my TF 400s and it came right off. You want to do the bottom because the box gets wider toward the bottom and will stretch the material if pulled from the top. The tweeter over the top of the woofer was a common DCM trick. You will find it in the CX-17s and the CX-27s also. Don't forget to remove the input plate on the back before you start pulling the cloth. I suggest taking pictures up close of the crossover mounted on the back of the plate before you disconnect the wiring, or write the wire colors on the crossover itself. You will note the lamp bulb limiter on the crossover. If you are missing high end on your speakers, this is the first thing to check.
I suggest to you that, if you have no problems with your 600s, you should just leave them alone. Dealing with the sock, crossover and the foam under the sock is too much of a PITA for just a look see. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I suggest to you that, if you have no problems with your 600s, you should just leave them alone. Dealing with the sock, crossover and the foam under the sock is too much of a PITA for just a look see. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Last edited:
Copa1934
My ears are bleeding
I have a separate thread already started and have been taking images, as I go along, and will post soon, maybe today if I find time.
First, yes there are two woofers. The reason you can't see the second is the felt that is between the tweeter plate and the plate covering the woofer. No light will get passed the felt so you can't see the woofer. However, if you look close enough at the edges you might see the outline of the frame and maybe the screws.
Second, don't go top to bottom, as pointed out you are going from narrow to wide and if the fabric is worth keeping it likely won't be after you stretch the crap out of it pulling it down.
Mallet is the best, and safest way, however, placing a block of wood against the bottom and hitting that will distribute the blow better. Of course tapping and not swinging "for the fence", as they say.
The rear port is a major pain. If any of the material was sandwiched between the port and the opening you might break the lip of the port, I know cause I did. Fortunately I was able to repair it, but it still shows.
I'll show the liner's/covers/socks (whatever you want to call them) as well. Also I used foam picked up from JoAnns fabrics for the baffle. Again, once I post images it will make more sense.
It's a lot of trouble/effort, but replacing the foam, I believe, is a key component to getting the best sound out of these. The foam, I'm pretty certain, was functional in containing reflections off the baffle to a minimum.
Anyway, with the exception of my opinion on the foam, this is all fact, I know cause I'm nearly finished with the "restore" so to speak. Thankfully all drivers are functional and sound great, so far. I just wish I had a more suitable room to test them, but they're for a friend so no worries.
