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DCM TF 600 Question

J

Jakeabean

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
I just snagged a pair of these as a throw in freebie when I purchased a bunch of stuff the other day. They sound pretty good to me. My question is, is there a left or right? Should the L/R woofers be closer to each other, or placed so they're at opposite ends and farther away from each other? I found a little bit of info, but nothing definite. Somebody mentioned placing them according to how the badges looked. No badges on mine. :(
Thanks!
 
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The tweeter and woofer are on the same side. That should be the inside for both speakers. Tweet to tweet, woof to woof.
 
Well, cry me a river. Just found the hidden tweets on the backs. Seems none of them are working on either tower. At least the fronts sound nice. So what now?
 
Check the "light bulb" fuses in the crossovers.

TF-600's are worth getting working right...because they're damn nice when they are. I frequently see them pop up in the local used market in the $150-250 range and at that price they are, IMO, one of the best bargains in hifi...vintage or otherwise.
 
Well I checked the fuse bulbs and they seem fine. Jumped across them and no difference. Hooked a speaker wire directly to the blue and brown wires on the xover and the front tweeter played instead of the rears. I then disconnected the same tweeter wires from the xover and hooked them to speaker wires again. Nothing! Same thing for both speakers. Seems like I'm looking at purchasing 4 new tweeters. I'm guessing the fuse lamps didn't do their job somewhere along the line, or are these just prone to dying after a period of time? "Enquiring minds would like to know."
 
For anyone that may need it; some pics of the 600's crossover.
 

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I bought 2 TF-400s that had no tweeters working and they were cheap at the flea market. All the fix cost me was the cost of two of those lamp fuses. As a matter of course, I purchased 8 from DCM because I knew back then that the TimeFrames were not going to be produced anymore.

People tend to have low powered amps and them push them unreasonably. This will kill tweeters all the time. My Tfs are driven by 180 watt receivers. I crank them pretty hard sometimes and I still have all my tweeters. Big amps don't necessarily mean blown speakers.
 
Found new replacements on the bay. Got two sets coming next week. Looking forward to hearing what they'll sound like when the tweets are installed. I already like what I can hear now.
 
Jakeabean said:
Found new replacements on the bay. Got two sets coming next week. Looking forward to hearing what they'll sound like when the tweets are installed. I already like what I can hear now.
Click to expand...

I think you'll find they're worth your time, effort, and modest expense of some replacement tweeters. They can be a pain in the ass to work on...the sock is kind of a bitch to get off and then there's the underlayment of headliner foam stuff that you'll probably find has become brittle or is deteriorating. It's all a little quirky but the end result has great sonics so I won't trash talk the design.
 
tomlinmgt said:
Check the "light bulb" fuses in the crossovers.

TF-600's are worth getting working right...because they're damn nice when they are. I frequently see them pop up in the local used market in the $150-250 range and at that price they are, IMO, one of the best bargains in hifi...vintage or otherwise.
Click to expand...

I picked up some inexpensive TF-600s last year and later figured out that the rear tweeters aren't working.

I have very little experience working on speakers, so I'd be thrilled if it turns out to be the light bulb fuses. Sounds like a royal PITA to have to peel them from the bottom up.

Could you tell me where to source replacement bulbs? I understand that some may have the specs printed on them, but some may not.

Thanks!
 
DCM may still be around. I don't know, but if they are, I would give them a try. Creating them yourself might also be a reasonable possibility. To move the sock, you either have to knock off the top or the bottom. Neither is more difficult than the other.
 
The fuse/bulb is just a regular auto/truck bulb with a stiff wire soldered to each end. The trick will be finding the appropriate amp fuse/bulb.
 
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