Just purchased a pair of Time Windows. They are in decent shape. One sock is deteriorating, so I plan to replace both of them. Due to their age I am thinking they could stand to have the crossovers re-capped. I am not sure how to get the speakers "opened up" to get at the c/o's. This particular set of speakers does not have the nut on the bottom of the speaker with a rod running through to hold them together. Some of the info I have researched says that the end caps are glued on and to remove them use a piece of wood and a hammer to separate the bottom end cap from the cabinet. Just want to make sure that I am going about this the correct way. Any input would be appreciated.
DCM Time Windows
- Thread starter bfstrysik
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- crossovers dcm rebuild
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colohiker
Well-Known Member
I have the second generation "original"Time Windows and it was a pain to do. My crossovers were located on the top cap, not the bottom. The end cap pops off and there is another piece of particle board beneath that. It is stapled through the sides of the tube. I use a Dremel tool to carefully cut the staples off.
When it's all said and done, there are only two 47uf electrolytes capacitors in the circuit. In hind sight, I don't know if it was worth the trouble.
When it's all said and done, there are only two 47uf electrolytes capacitors in the circuit. In hind sight, I don't know if it was worth the trouble.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Hey Bf!
The crossover is usually attached to the top wood cap. There's lots of info regarding how to either remove it, or pull the woofers. The "Black Death" glue holding the woofers can be a big PITA, but, if you chip away as much as possible, then use the wifes hair drier to carefully soften the remaining glue, they lift out fairly easily. Some particle board chips will be stuck to the basket, just scrape it off before reinstalling.
Before you do any of this, listen to them! Mine are all original sans a woofer replaced, and sound great!
Glenn
The crossover is usually attached to the top wood cap. There's lots of info regarding how to either remove it, or pull the woofers. The "Black Death" glue holding the woofers can be a big PITA, but, if you chip away as much as possible, then use the wifes hair drier to carefully soften the remaining glue, they lift out fairly easily. Some particle board chips will be stuck to the basket, just scrape it off before reinstalling.
Before you do any of this, listen to them! Mine are all original sans a woofer replaced, and sound great!
Glenn
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
The work required to recap the TW is way more than it is worth. Kickback enjoy the speakers and if they sound bad think about doing them. If they don't sound bad you have saved dozens of hours of work and aggravation. Recapping on ak has become a disease but I understand it is the only way to get intimate with the gear but still not everything needs to have caps thrown into it. The ones in these speakers NEVER saw the inside of an amp to get hot.
But if you want to wrestle the top off and get in there, give us a picture documentary so we can do it the easy way or say the heck with it.
But if you want to wrestle the top off and get in there, give us a picture documentary so we can do it the easy way or say the heck with it.
Donkey Karma
Super Member
Last edited:
Thanks for all the input. I think for now I will just replace the socks and refinish the walnut caps. These appear to be very early TW's. The serial numbers are stamped/carved into the bottom cap; 1482 and 1484. I found foam from The Foam Factory that I am going to order when I return from vacation in a few weeks. Since I want to refinish the end caps, I am thinking about removing them first. Are they just glued to the MDF on the top and bottom? If so, do I carefully tap them loose with a piece of wood and a mallet? Don't want to screw them up. As for powering them, I have several options; Adcom GFA 555 ss amp at 200 w/channel at 8 ohm and 325w at 4 ohm couples to one of several tube pre amps, Rogue Cronus Magnum ll tube integrated at 100 watts / channel or a recapped Yamaha CR 2020. That one is only 105 - 110 watts per channel but it has been playing nice with the new addition Time Windows.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Yours are a bit earlier than mine, which also have the numbers stamped into the base. SN#'s 2307 & 2309. Interesting both are 2 numbers apart.
Audio Fan
YT Channel - https://tinyurl.com/29zytwu9
Not sure how the grill foam attaches to your version, but if the same as the set I did, reattaching the black strips can be a challenge. Here is the thread where I documented the new foam for a set I did some time ago that is a good reference.
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....ome-time-windows-speakers-sound-great.435659/
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....ome-time-windows-speakers-sound-great.435659/
gib48189
Active Member
Congrats on the TW's. I've owned mine since, I don't know how long. Serials are 650 and 672. As yours are a bit older than Glenn's, you have the Octaginal woofs like ours.
I have never re-capped mine, they still sound just fine along with the "Fans". Pushing them with a Rotel integrated amp, RA-1312, bought that along with the TW's.
I have never re-capped mine, they still sound just fine along with the "Fans". Pushing them with a Rotel integrated amp, RA-1312, bought that along with the TW's.
GD70
Lunatic Member
Listening to mine all day, a lovely sounding speaker.
I thought I had posted this. The foam came from "Foam Factory" in Macomb MI. 33 bucks shipped for two sheets.Here's a few pics of the new foam.
A few pics. I used velcro strips with the hook side glued to the cabs. The foam grabs it well but can be removed easily if needed.
Glenn
I thought I had posted this. The foam came from "Foam Factory" in Macomb MI. 33 bucks shipped for two sheets.Here's a few pics of the new foam.
A few pics. I used velcro strips with the hook side glued to the cabs. The foam grabs it well but can be removed easily if needed.
Glenn
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Time to start some work on these vintage girls. Ordered new foam today. Decided to refinish the wood caps. I carefully tapped on the top cap with a hammer and a piece of wood. I began to separate. I did come off without too much effort, and as you can probably see from the photos, it was attached with 3 wood screws and several staples from the bottom through the particle board. I am in the process of trying to remove one of the 6' drivers to access the screws and hopefully the crossover. Any input on the driver removal?? I have used a thin, flexible putty knife and a hammer to remove the black death around the screw holes and to break the bond between the edge of the wood and the metal edge of the speaker. Not sure where to go from here. Hair dryer to try to soften the black glue and try to pry the driver out?? Why in the world didn't they just use screws and some thin foam gasket to assemble these??
c5corvette
Well-Known Member
I grabbed TW's few months back. Like you, I refinished the tops and installed new foam, however I did not break them down. I read several threads regarding the PIA black death goo that secures the drivers. I suppose I'm in the @Blue Shadow shadow camp. If they sound fine, let them be. Nonetheless, good luck with yours and keep us posted!
