• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

De-soldering Impossible Untouchable Old Solder?

Johnny_Law

Johnny_Law

o.O
Subscriber
I am re-capping this beaut but the old solder refuses to budge. I am using a Hakko FX-888D at 875 degrees with a nice broad tip. It doesn't touch this solder. I have also tried adding some Kester rosin core solder, but once it touches the old stuff it freezes up and becomes unmeltable itself. I have tried a solder wick which doesn't touch it.

I currently have my solder paste warming up to try.

The only way I've been able to get any solder off is by using shears to physically cut it off.

Would love to know if you all have any tricks to desoldering this stuff.

yNughwxl.jpg


HZ4RhgSl.jpg


Thank you,
Ryan
 
Register to hide this ad
i never ran against anything like that. Nothing SS to cook. You could try something like a weller 140w (it has to liquefy at some point).
My shop teacher used to get solder hot enough to liquify then rap piece on a hard surface to get it to fly off. Not sure if that works or if its helpful but its something to try
 
Yep, I had the same issue trying to replace a can cap, the issue is that it is soldered to the chassis so you essentially need to heat the whole thing up to melt it. I had no luck, I can only thing a bigger soldering gun and more heat would do the trick.
 
Another thought is just cut the leg of the cap and solder the new cap lead to the old one, that way you don't have to mess with that solder joint.
 
nj pheonix said:
You could try something like a weller 140w (it has to liquefy at some point).
Click to expand...

Yeah, about 60 seconds with "Big Bertha" will melt that!

Edit: Actually, I would likely leave the old can in place and install new caps underneath.
 
If you just talking about the can cap tabs on the chassis, we've done this one. Some use big old irons (250-300w)
I've used iron and heated solder sucker. The chassis is acting as a giant heat sink. Some just take a dremel tool and grind the old tabs off. Once joint is flush with chassis, a little wiggling will generally get it out.
 
Yep, your dainty little Hakko just isn't going to touch that...I have four Weller D550's around for just such beasts....quite different working on something made back in the days of American Beauty soldering irons...and things soldered to the chassis.
 
Ordered the Weller 8200 - Amazon one-day shipping not bad!

In the meantime I did end up just cutting the ground tab off the multicap housing and was done with it. The other solder ended up giving way after I switched tips to a broad wedge type.

Now I just need to find a new place to ground the tone arm and ground caps - should be easy enough.

But now I'll have the big Weller for the next one. :D
 
The can and chassis are just sucking the heat away faster than you can put it in. More power is the only solution. I've doubled mine up before, the FX-888 plus the 808 desoldering iron to add wattage to the problem.
 
I think Hakko has different kind of stations using different tips. If your station is using this kind:https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_od...+hakko+tip.TRS0&_nkw=aoyue+hakko+tip&_sacat=0

There is NO HOPE. It's must be a design problem. I have the Aoyue station that use the same tip. The tip is heated up by a ceramic rod that sticks into the hole at the back of the tip. Heat transfer is really bad, I have the whole set of tips and it ain't worth $hit. You can use the widest tip and it won't heat up hot enough. I have problem even with two layer board. if there's a ground plane, it won't even solder right.

I have 3 solder station both the Metcal and Weller has absolutely no problem soldering heavy materials. I build guitar amp very similar to what you show in the picture, the Weller melt the solder just like that, I don't have to change tips!!! The Aoyue is a different story. I cannot curse it enough. If it is not because I am allergic to the fumes and have to try to put up with the Aoyue that has smoke absorber, it will go into the garbage can.

Another thing, something about the metal of those tips, it does not melt solder as fast. It's almost like there is a coat of oxide form and cover the tip very fast and prevent good heat transfer. You have to scrape the tip on a wet foam all the time. Weller and Matcal don't have this problem.

You have two choices, buy a bigger soldering iron or solder gun. Check your tips, if it is like those I show you, save up money to buy a Weller station.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weller-WTCP...061325&hash=item2caa23e81b:g:eCUAAOSw2ENW8aDy
 
I use a Weller TCP - a very old 24V (40W?) one - the only tips I ever use are a number 7 oval conical angled tip (3mm?) and a number 9 oval conical angled tip (5mm), if I need extra power this second one is seldom embarrassed with the work I have had to do. For de-soldering surface mount components I can see a use for number 6 fine point bits with my Weller, but that is a rarity. ;)
I don't have anything to do with pencil points, or chisel tips - they are just asking for you to lift traces, same with so called 'solder stations', no time for them either. :)
 
Last edited:
More horsepower, but don't get acid solder paste anywhere near it. The stuff is usually acidic and will corrode electronics forever unless you really know how to clean it. Things soldered with plumbing paste usually have to be thrown out. There is rosin paste for electronics, but it's not common.
 
Wonder if somebody got creative and used some of that low lead silver type no core solder.

Alan0354 said:
There is NO HOPE. It's must be a design problem. I have the Aoyue station that use the same tip. The tip is heated up by a ceramic rod that sticks into the hole at the back of the tip. Heat transfer is really bad, I have the whole set of tips and it ain't worth $hit. You can use the widest tip and it won't heat up hot enough. I have problem even with two layer board. if there's a ground plane, it won't even solder right.
Click to expand...

I have a few big guns to rely on for heavy stuff.
My Aoyue #9378 w/ the xtra tips.. excellent. You just got defective unit need calibration? and should have sent it back. my unit comes out of idle in a few seconds up to any stored or adjusted temp. point.

another tip (pardon the pun) Solder tips are not prepared for soldering. They're coated treatment is not solder ready unless sold as same.

Sponge dipping after soldering is a waste of time and you just pick up old solder.. unless for cleaning and a tad of alcohol and distilled water on the sponge and then resilver the tip till next use. But for on the active soldering the brass dipper is essential for tip care and quality, each and every soldering joint you dip before and after. People who complain about fumes don't do "the dip" :D eventually your tip is burning too much residue from the previous or more joints an spatter from too much heat etc. Mind you I do have ventilation for continuous use. Why I like the station that goes into idle after a dip and no fumes coming off. ventilation is important regardless.

bink
 
You will know you have found the right gun when it has good solid recoil. No joke... for desoldering large globs you need a big 250 to 500 watt gun. They tend to go clack, and jump a bit when you pull the trigger, which means it's working. You won't need it all the time but when you have a big glob or a chassis ground you need MOAR POWAH to contend with the thermal transfer charicteristics of all that metal.
 
Binkman said:
Wonder if somebody got creative and used some of that low lead silver type no core solder.



I have a few big guns to rely on for heavy stuff.
My Aoyue #9378 w/ the xtra tips.. excellent. You just got defective unit need calibration? and should have sent it back. my unit comes out of idle in a few seconds up to any stored or adjusted temp. point.

another tip (pardon the pun) Solder tips are not prepared for soldering. They're coated treatment is not solder ready unless sold as same.

Sponge dipping after soldering is a waste of time and you just pick up old solder.. unless for cleaning and a tad of alcohol and distilled water on the sponge and then resilver the tip till next use. But for on the active soldering the brass dipper is essential for tip care and quality, each and every soldering joint you dip before and after. People who complain about fumes don't do "the dip" :D eventually your tip is burning too much residue from the previous or more joints an spatter from too much heat etc. Mind you I do have ventilation for continuous use. Why I like the station that goes into idle after a dip and no fumes coming off. ventilation is important regardless.

bink
Click to expand...
That the second unit already. the first one lasted exactly 3 months and the iron died. Amazon was so nice to give me a replacement even after 3 months. I said that because I ordered a set of extra tips and they are like this. Most notable, the biggest tip is absolutely useless. When I solder big transistor onto a two layer board with ground and power planes, I have to use the Aoyue to solder them on and let the fume dissipates, then I have to use the Weller to melt the solder again to make sure the solder melt through to the other side. The solder balled up if only using the Aoyue and doesn't go through to the other side. It's that bad.

It must be the oxidized coating on the tip, yes, very frequent scraping on the wet sponge help some, BUT it's nothing like the Weller or the Metcal tips. There is a big difference. Don't mistaken, the Aoyue/Hakko tip are always shinny and smooth when soldering, it just does not melt the solder that quick, I have to push it harder onto the solder joint on the pcb and all of a sudden, it melt after a second or two. With the Weller and Metcal, you touch the joint and it melt. It's a different world.

Please note, I only said IF his Hakko use the same tip as my Aoyue, if it's different, all my comments don't count. I gave the link to the tips I used, if it is the same, he will have a problem, if it's not, then I don't know.

I have done a lot of soldering as electronic was my job. I taught technicians how to solder when we first hired them out from school.

There is a very good reason why Weller( for through hole) and Metcal ( for SMD) are the industry standard in the last 40 years, no exception. Every company I worked for use these two. I have all of them and I can tell you, Aoyue is not even close. Every time I am forced to use the Aoyue, I start cursing. And Aoyue is the fanciest.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom