• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

deteriorating foam light barriers behind ma5100 front panel

andyp

andyp

Active Member
Hi, I took the front panel off this ma5100 I picked up and noticed that there are thin foam strips that run along the inside of the metal bottom faceplate, it looks like a light barrier, the foam has completely deteriorated,

Can I just find adhesive foam backed strips to replace it with at a local hardware outlet or is there something I should know? Or can I just leave it out completely?

Thanks

Andy
 
Register to hide this ad
I usually just replace the foam tape in the top and bottom extrusions with either electrical tape or black cloth tape. Acetone will cut the old glue. Trim the excess with a razor blade. I've never seen foam tape thin enough to go in that groove and leave room for the glass.

Murray
 
Thanks! I missed the fact that it was to keep the glass off the metal! whew!

Does anyone know if the silver faced mcintosh pieces were always plain silver (did any have a light tone), Mine looks slightly off color, I assumed it was from smoke but noticed that the entire faceplate on both sides and inside the extruded channels has a consistent color (when I cleaned it with dish soap it wasn't even very dirty), any idea of what might have caused that? on a small test area I tried many things including alcohol, wd-40, etc, but there was not even the slightest change to the tone (I know not to get any solvents on the lettering). I didn't really find tar build up anywhere on the piece so not sure if it was from cig smoke but know I don't think so (usually cig smoke creates a grungy runoff when cleaned, this was barely dirty, also the consistent coloring on the metal on both sides/ends/channels makes me wonder)
 
The piece had been in storage for many years, and the owner forgot he had it and wasn't even in the market to sell it so it wasn't "cleaned up" before hand (it is somewhat dirty, the worst part is the original owner duct taped the metal grille on the top of the wood case because one of the masonite retainers on the inside came off, getting that old dried up residue was a pain but it is all gone now)
 
I clean those end caps with ultra fine rubbing compound, after washing them. It does take quite a bit of clean up to get the rubbing compound off, however. If they still don't look right, try some ammonia and/or acetone.

I do have some early end caps that look like they are plated pot metal but the later ones like on an MR-77, are aluminum.

Murray
 
thanks murray, I have all the front panel metal peices soaking in dish soap and warm water in the sink, will see how it all comes out,
 
While the piece may have some smoke residue, the MA-5100 bottom panel is actually NOT silver but Anodized gold metal.

Be very careful when cleaning the face in order not to remove the lettering.

Good luck and enjoy!

Barry
 
YES!!! thanks barry, it was driving me nuts, I new better than to use any solvents on the panel, I have screwed up otherwise decent things in the past with cleaners (no stereo gear), I had been reading threads on the topic so took all precautions, I have a few mcintosh pieces (c32, mr80, ma5100) and enjoy the idea of collecting and doing careful cosmetic cleaning, it's fun cleaning something that is so well made and looks so great!
 
Foam tape is easy to find, I get mine at Lowes - 'low density Foam Tape weatherstrip' (open cell), 3/16 thick by 3/8 wide for most applications and for around the push buttons 3/8 thick by 1/2 wide. I use a pack of the smaller tape about every 2 weeks, I hate the old gummy foam and replace it on most everything I work on.
 
Thanks Terry, noted that the foam seal that deteriorated was on the inside metal faceplate and appeared to be a mated seal to the foam strip on the panel chasis that ran just under the panel lights near along the glass/metal border.

I inspected the rocker switches and noted small foam pads that looked like they were also basically gone (shedding gunk I am sure into the switch), I saw these on the top of the switches but assume they are underneath as well, I want to remove these, maybe they were there to keep dust out? In anycase, they look like a potential problem now that they are falling apart
 
The foam under the rockers did two things, made the operate smoother and kept dust out of the switch, replacing it can be a hassle so normally I do not try, I just suck them clean with the shop-vac.
 
dewickt said:
Foam tape is easy to find, I get mine at Lowes - 'low density Foam Tape weatherstrip' (open cell), 3/16 thick by 3/8 wide for most applications and for around the push buttons 3/8 thick by 1/2 wide. I use a pack of the smaller tape about every 2 weeks, I hate the old gummy foam and replace it on most everything I work on.
Click to expand...

Terry,
What size foam would be best around the push buttons (rockers) for the MX-110? Also, for the glass? Why wouldn't med-density or high-density foam work?
Thanks
 
Terry, HD sells a 1/8" thick x 1/4" wide neoprene weatherstrip foam which I think is more durable than the other kind. It's adhesive is more heat resistant and the foam itself is denser although just as squishy ;-) It's in the same place as the other foam stuff at HD.
 
Just watch out for the denser foam, depending on where it is used it can put a lot of pressure against the glass, choose the thickness carefully if you use it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom