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Difference between Altec Model 14 and Professional version - 9842-8A/F

J

jervz

Member
Hi everyone,

I don't see much reference online about Altec Studio Monitors - 9842-8A/F and all I know in GPA website, it is a professional version of Model 14 and it has a different or utilitarian cabinet. Although, I still prefer the cabinet of Model 14.

May I know what is the difference between these two versions, apart from what has been mentioned above and whether if these two version are different sonically (sound quality)? Do you know why it was considered as professional version? Just curious on the history of these two versions.

Does anyone here tried or own 9842-8A/F? What is your experience? It seems these are difficult to find speakers online.

Appreciate your feedback or advice. Thanks.
 
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Only difference is the cabinet and a small piece of aluminum with the 9842 monitor ID glued down on the crossover chassis on top of where it says Model 14.

Altec-Lansing-9842-8A-crossovers-will-fit-model-14.jpg


i-img640x360-1589106788t4x7sy24529.jpg%26dc=1%26sr.fs=20000


Altec-Model-14-Listening-Tests-1.jpg
 
These are pretty cool looking. I’d probably choose the gray version over the veneered version. But both are nice. I don’t know if either one has enough WAF to make it in the house.

14AD996F-8D7B-41FD-9E96-525A6184EB1F.jpeg 22C8553A-5EB3-433A-9556-3D332669AC5E.jpeg
 
I got these 9842-8A/F versions from a guy with all original drivers and crossovers, but he reconstructed or customize it in a very clean (mint) Model 14 cabinet specifications.

Would you still consider this as Model 14 speakers? They were meant to be the professional version as mentioned in GPA website (here) but I don't know what this meant.

I'm not really sure if it makes any difference in sound quality since I don't have any other Altec 14 speakers to compare but it sounds great to me .

What are your thoughts and just curious if others in this forum has the same version? Thanks.

9842 8A (Model 14) - 2.JPG 9842 8A (Model 14).JPG
 
To answer your 1st question, I would consider them Altec Model 14 equivalents or clones or alternatively repurposed original drivers in a Model 14 cabinet clone. Looks like you have the same woofers, tweeters and tweeter horn. Crossovers also look like they might be the same, except the model # label on top and the serial number on the bottom of the crossover front face. The only other difference besides the veneer pattern that I can think of vs. a factory model 14 is that I seem to recall the MDF used on the 14s, there was denser finer particulate on the outside layers vs the core.


Altec-Lansing-Particle-Board.jpg


If the internal dimensions / materials etc. are the same/similar as the stock items, I see no reason they wouldn't sound the same and perform as well as a factory pair. (or even perhaps better, due to the mirror image layout, new construction materials, fresh sealing, etc.).

If I were still in the market for Altec 14s, I wouldn't see any problem with these being equivalently priced to factory models in similarly pristine condition or marketed as rebuilt/customized Altec 14s.
 
Sam08861 said:
To answer your 1st question, I would consider them Altec Model 14 equivalents or clones or alternatively repurposed original drivers in a Model 14 cabinet clone. Looks like you have the same woofers, tweeters and tweeter horn. Crossovers also look like they might be the same, except the model # label on top and the serial number on the bottom of the crossover front face. The only other difference besides the veneer pattern that I can think of vs. a factory model 14 is that I seem to recall the MDF used on the 14s, there was denser finer particulate on the outside layers vs the core.


Altec-Lansing-Particle-Board.jpg


If the internal dimensions / materials etc. are the same/similar as the stock items, I see no reason they wouldn't sound the same and perform as well as a factory pair. (or even perhaps better, due to the mirror image layout, new construction materials, fresh sealing, etc.).

If I were still in the market for Altec 14s, I wouldn't see any problem with these being equivalently priced to factory models in similarly pristine condition or marketed as rebuilt/customized Altec 14s.
Click to expand...

Thanks, most of the parts (woofer, tweeter, crossover, mantaray horns) are same as Model 14s. However, I'm not sure if there is something wrong with the crossover EQ as I can't somehow to bring out the bass whenever I play Dire Strait's Brothers in Arm in comparison with my other speakers. I tried to play around the HF and MF EQ but not much difference. If I need to upgrade my crossover, do you have any reference or material that I can use?
 
Sam08861 said:
ps... schematic of an 'improved' crossover design for the Model 14

model_14_final_w_zobel_hf.jpg


& Woofer specs:

Fs=22.4 Hz
Qes=.1569
Qms=6.8436
Qts=.1534
Zmax=261.65 ohms
Le=2.1394 mH
VAS=380 L (13.42 ft^3)
BL=15.8724 N/A
Sens=96.2 dB@1W/1M
Eff=2.63 %

Taken from here: https://www.audiophilenirvana.com/audiophile-equipment-reviews/altec-lansing-model-14/
Click to expand...

I'm a newbie on this and would probably rely on a technician. Is this schematic for the external crossover dbx DriveRack PA2 and much do you think this type of upgrade will cost?

For the earlier options, may I know what is the rationale behind removing the protection circuit and are all capacitors to be replaced in the existing crossover?
 
The schematic is to replace the existing crossovers (or rewire them, if possible) with standalone passive crossovers. Cost should be minimal for the various components and a point to point wired circuit board. (I'm guessing maybe $25-30 bucks altogether?)

So no driverack or new equipment involved, just replacement of the existing crossovers with an improved design. I've never head this, but the gentleman who drew up the schematic had a good reputation. (And has since passed, I believe, unfortunately. RIP)

Just for fyi...A driverack is a model/brand of an electronic crossover. This allows one amplifier to drive the woofers and another to drive the tweeters, by splitting the signal and is user configurable and has other features, such as delays, eq, room correction, etc.; Alternatively, you could use each stereo amp to drive one speaker - i.e. left channel is woofer, right is tweeter. Theory is limiting dynamic range and dedicated amp to each driver improves responsiveness in the frequency range the driver best performs, without interference from 'distracting' signals that are below or above the driver's optimal frequency range. You can google bi-amping, and you'll see the downsides are a longer and mixed (analog/digital/analog) signal path due to the crossover and having to have multiple amplifiers, depending on the number of drivers.

The rationale for replacing the electrolytic capacitors is that some lose their effectiveness with age, due to drying out, and replacing them restores their functionality in the circuit as designed. Typically electrolytic capacitors are replaced and resistors (do drift, but less often impacted by age than caps) are sometimes checked to make sure they area also in spec, and replaced as necessary. Can't recall if there are any other type on the stock crossover.

The rationale (or perhaps theory) for removing the protection circuit is that a shorter path to the speakers leads to less distortion/purer sound, by means of bypassing the various components in that circuit.
 
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Thanks for explaining different possible upgrades to improve Model 14. I might try first the simple upgrade, which replacing caps and resistors and see if I can find out to help me on the improve design crossover. How about your crossover for Model 14, which version is yours at the moment?
 
jervz said:
Thanks for explaining different possible upgrades to improve Model 14. I might try first the simple upgrade, which replacing caps and resistors and see if I can find out to help me on the improve design crossover. How about your crossover for Model 14, which version is yours at the moment?
Click to expand...

I ended up going the alternate route and bi-amping, following the article referenced in the 1st post in this thread showing my experience... https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...h-driverack-pa2-project-and-questions.870225/
 
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