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DIY Anti Static gun

Here's a video of another battery operated gun. However this gun created static after knocking the peanut off for some reason instead of getting rid of it. It has 2 coils inside, transistor, resistor, cap, ect. I sent it back because it didn't work correct. Sometimes it needed to be very close to work just like my dyi gun except the peanut will not stick with mine. I understand now what you guys are saying & it clears things up some what.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JiTjBy7KsE
 
Finally got mine. Here is the schematic of it. It does operate on different principle from what I originally thought. Basically there is a multi-vibrator built on first little transformer that generates AC voltage. This voltage is being rectified with first diode and capacitor gets charged. Once the capacitor's voltage reaches the threshold of the second diode (which is actually Zener I think, or maybe it is triac? ) it's resistance drops and the cap gets partially discharged through the primary winding of the second transformer. The threshold voltage of the second diode is probably 87V which corresponds with 67V measurements on the capacitor.

The secondary winding ground indeed connected to the primary winding ground. However they can be separated. Hence we can flip the coil for polarity change.

Now we have to figure out how to limit the voltage at 5-7 KV. This number I got by looking at some specs of the chinese made ion guns.

At our disposal we have some cheap high voltage parts that can be used in the project:
1KV diodes 1N4007 (and there are some other faster equivalents) - cost few cents ;
100...300pF 7.5KV ceramic capacitors - about 30c.

I am thinking about chaining few 1N4007 to get up to 8KV range and loading it with some capacitance at the far end. Hopefully the leakage will be sufficient to keep the voltage low enough so it would not arc in the coil.

The voltage can be also lowered by the Zener of different voltage (if it is indeed Zener).
 

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I am just curious, how did you pull the high voltage cable from the metal tube without damaging it? In mine I can not remove the plastic tip.
 
I think if I was to set out to build something similar to this for ion generation (de-staticing a vinyl album), I would use a multiplier circuit based on a Cockcroft - Walton multiplier. This would allow the chopper circuit to provide a constant DC high voltage, yielding a constant stream of ions.
Terry
 
jason12 said:
I am just curious, how did you pull the high voltage cable from the metal tube without damaging it? In mine I can not remove the plastic tip.
Click to expand...

The brass electrode is really a brass nail. You need to pull it out using a pair of needle nose pliers. After it's removed grab the wire & pull. It does take some force because it's in a piece of plastic that holds it stable. The plastic needs to be pushed out using a piece of wire from one of those 5 gallon bucket handles.
 
Jason/Terry can you guys help me with wiring my lathe toggle switch? Recently my little bench top lathe switch broke & I bought a 3 way toggle switch to replace it. The old switch was rated 10A 220v to 10A 380v & the new toggle is 20A 250v.

Here's my wiring:

Single phase AC induction motor (runs forward & reverse) has:

2 - red wires

2 - green wires.

I checked them with the ohm meter & the two green must go to the same place in the motor because it showed a closed circuit no matter which wire was touched & I'm thinking their the ground wires.

The 2 red wires are separate & I'm taking it their the power which control forward & reverse.

I have a 110 power cord with.

Black - hot

white - neutral

green - ground

I have a three way toggle switch with 6 connections:

The 2 middle are my common & the 2 ends are for forward & reverse. And I know one side of the connectors would have the power wires going to it & the other side would have the neutral/ground wires going to it but after connecting everything up the lathe will not power on. Attached is my setup.



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