Greetings AK,
Thought I'd share my experience building some compact S2000 bookshelf speakers. Hopefully those interested in the S2000 will stumble upon this post and find it useful in the purchasing/building process.
I don't have fancy woodworking equipment nor do I care to breadboard crossovers, so I looked for a kit that includes a pre-cut flat-pack cabinet and PCBs. I eventually decided on the S2000s from DIY Sound Group because they're small, have optional PCBs, and have nice optional baltic birch flat pack cabinets. They sell for around $200 shipped with all these options, which is impressive considering what you get. My plan is to listen to them nearfield on my desk and bring them to parties (I'm sick of horrendous Bluetooth speakers).
The flat pack cabinets look quite nice and the carbon fiber woofers are heavy with a cast spider. The tweeters are abnormally small but I'm sure they'll do the job.

As you would expect, the crossover parts are audio-grade: Jantzen and Dayton air core inductors, big Dayton and Audyn poly caps, and hefty 10w resistors. The quality of the PCB is stellar. If you order the PCB, you also get plastic mounting standoffs and screws, which makes the installation so much easier.
I started by assembling the crossovers since I'm an electronics DIYer at heart. Made sure to raise the resistors off the board a bit to give them better airflow.

Then drilled holes for the binding posts (which are not included but can be purchased for $7 extra). As you can see, I split the outer layer of the plywood on the bottom panel, and both panels have significant splitting on the side not shown. The baltic birch plywood really does not like being drilled or screwed into. If I had to redo this part, I'd definitely use a 2x4 clamped behind the drill hole to minimize the splitting risk. I'd also use a wood-specific drill bit instead of a multipurpose bit.

After this, I spent a good deal of time thinking about the optimal assembly order. I've seen many people assemble and finish speaker cabinets without the crossover mounted, but I don't think that's the best approach here. These speakers are very compact and trying to mount crossovers in the fully assembled box would be a pain. Instead, I opted to mount the crossovers first and then glue the cabinet. The crossover and driver screws need pre-drilled holes or the wood will split.
A word of caution: the drivers and ports will conflict with the crossovers if you're not careful. At first, I had the crossovers mounted to the bottom panel:

However, I tried putting the baffle in position and discovered the woofer conflicted with the crossover board. This could only be resolved by putting the xovers all the way at the back of the bottom panel, but that would cause them to conflict with the binding posts since I drilled my binding post holes relatively low. I could have used these as the top panels, but I didn't want the heavy inductors sitting up-side-down. After some deliberation, I ended up mounting the crossovers to a side panel in a position where they didn't conflict with the port or the woofer. S2000 builders need to be aware of clearance issues and should do a trial assembly run to make sure everything fits in their chosen configuration.
After figuring the xover situation out, I got around to gluing the cabinet. The back panel supports all the other panels and makes for easy assembly so long as you go in a logical order. I managed to get away with only two clamps per cabinet.

I'm not done yet: still need to pre-drill holes for the driver screws, finish the cabinets, install the binding posts, and then mount the drivers. Will post pics of the final product and give some listening impressions once that's all complete.
Thought I'd share my experience building some compact S2000 bookshelf speakers. Hopefully those interested in the S2000 will stumble upon this post and find it useful in the purchasing/building process.
I don't have fancy woodworking equipment nor do I care to breadboard crossovers, so I looked for a kit that includes a pre-cut flat-pack cabinet and PCBs. I eventually decided on the S2000s from DIY Sound Group because they're small, have optional PCBs, and have nice optional baltic birch flat pack cabinets. They sell for around $200 shipped with all these options, which is impressive considering what you get. My plan is to listen to them nearfield on my desk and bring them to parties (I'm sick of horrendous Bluetooth speakers).
The flat pack cabinets look quite nice and the carbon fiber woofers are heavy with a cast spider. The tweeters are abnormally small but I'm sure they'll do the job.

As you would expect, the crossover parts are audio-grade: Jantzen and Dayton air core inductors, big Dayton and Audyn poly caps, and hefty 10w resistors. The quality of the PCB is stellar. If you order the PCB, you also get plastic mounting standoffs and screws, which makes the installation so much easier.
I started by assembling the crossovers since I'm an electronics DIYer at heart. Made sure to raise the resistors off the board a bit to give them better airflow.

Then drilled holes for the binding posts (which are not included but can be purchased for $7 extra). As you can see, I split the outer layer of the plywood on the bottom panel, and both panels have significant splitting on the side not shown. The baltic birch plywood really does not like being drilled or screwed into. If I had to redo this part, I'd definitely use a 2x4 clamped behind the drill hole to minimize the splitting risk. I'd also use a wood-specific drill bit instead of a multipurpose bit.

After this, I spent a good deal of time thinking about the optimal assembly order. I've seen many people assemble and finish speaker cabinets without the crossover mounted, but I don't think that's the best approach here. These speakers are very compact and trying to mount crossovers in the fully assembled box would be a pain. Instead, I opted to mount the crossovers first and then glue the cabinet. The crossover and driver screws need pre-drilled holes or the wood will split.
A word of caution: the drivers and ports will conflict with the crossovers if you're not careful. At first, I had the crossovers mounted to the bottom panel:

However, I tried putting the baffle in position and discovered the woofer conflicted with the crossover board. This could only be resolved by putting the xovers all the way at the back of the bottom panel, but that would cause them to conflict with the binding posts since I drilled my binding post holes relatively low. I could have used these as the top panels, but I didn't want the heavy inductors sitting up-side-down. After some deliberation, I ended up mounting the crossovers to a side panel in a position where they didn't conflict with the port or the woofer. S2000 builders need to be aware of clearance issues and should do a trial assembly run to make sure everything fits in their chosen configuration.
After figuring the xover situation out, I got around to gluing the cabinet. The back panel supports all the other panels and makes for easy assembly so long as you go in a logical order. I managed to get away with only two clamps per cabinet.

I'm not done yet: still need to pre-drill holes for the driver screws, finish the cabinets, install the binding posts, and then mount the drivers. Will post pics of the final product and give some listening impressions once that's all complete.
