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Does this Marantz 1150d need new caps?

Roborobo

Roborobo

New Member
Love my 1150d amplifier I just got. Previous owner bought it from a shop and didn’t know if had been recapped. I opened it up and see no conspicuous bulging, leaking. Can anybody tell from the pics below if these are original capacitors? Hoping they’ve already been replaced… Thanks!

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Oh those are original all right. As to whether or not they need replacing is another question. You will really only know if you measure them with an LCR bridge. But if you go to the trouble to pull out the cap to measure it, you might as well replace it as it's almost 50 years old.
 
Namlook said:
Oh those are original all right. As to whether or not they need replacing is another question. You will really only know if you measure them with an LCR bridge. But if you go to the trouble to pull out the cap to measure it, you might as well replace it as it's almost 50 years old.
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Yes exactly, if you pull to check with LCR might as well just pull and replace. At least that way you know your good.
 
I see one on the power supply board by the heatsink (C808?) with signs of apparent heat related aging.

How does it sound?

I have one all original that still works great.
 
Gotcha. It sounds so wonderful I was hoping it had already had the work done. I'll call and see what the pricing will be. If it wasn't for the fact that old caps can lead to more expensive failure (so I've read) I would leave it be.
 
Oerets said:
I see one on the power supply board by the heatsink (C808?) with signs of apparent heat related aging.

How does it sound?

I have one all original that still works great.
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Sounds wonderful! First amp I like as much as my B&K separates but it looks cooler and has a much more friendly interface than the B&K pre-amp. You have all original- don't you sweat that the caps could go and then cause other damage?
 
Roborobo said:
Sounds wonderful! First amp I like as much as my B&K separates but it looks cooler and has a much more friendly interface than the B&K pre-amp. You have all original- don't you sweat that the caps could go and then cause other damage?
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I have the ability and experience to do any of the work. Have done many repairs and recaps over the years. Probably even have most of the parts around already.
If it were to become one of my units used daily. Then would at least do the power supply and amplifier sections. It is mainly used to audition speakers when selling now.
 
Roborobo said:
It sounds so wonderful
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If you are comparing to similiar quality amps then I'd be tempted to leave it be, though that one cap with shrunken sleeve (C808?) would cause concern. If this is your "first" amp then maybe you don't know how good it can sound.

I've recapped a few amp with results from "oh wow" to barely "discernable".

Another approach would be to refurb the amp for longevity/preventative maintenance, note refurbishment does not mean you will get a "oh wow" result. Better to use an AK local (Oerets) rather than others.
 
I agree, replace them if you plan on keeping it long term.
The power supply and amp board at the very leased as already mentioned.
Try and use 105° caps, not 85°. Especially in the power supply and anywhere near a thing that gets hot, like regulators, hot running dropping resistors, etc.
You might also think about using polypropylene film caps like WIMA stack film caps to replace the small value electrolytic caps.
Do not buy caps from some random seller on ebay.
Use Mouser, or Digikey, etc. Never go by the schematic or parts list for to order. Changes are made during a production run. Always go by what the factory used in the piece of equipment you have.
Ok, enough, I'll sit back down in my chair and be quiet now. :rolleyes: :biggrin:
 
Appreciate the tough love. :) I'll call around and get some prices. If anybody has any suggestions for Central Florida I'm all ears. Thanks all!
 
Electrolytic caps are just not made to last 50 years. They have a liquid electrolyte that's sealed inside the can by a rubber seal. The seals fail with time and temperature. Even caps that are rated for long hours at 105C are not actually expected to last longer than 15 years.

I wouldn't even power it up until all those caps were replaced.
 
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