:thmbsp: And some of the records I've cleaned I thought were hopeless cases. After cleaning and vacuuming they look and sound great.
Does Vacuuming really help
- Thread starter geode
- Start date
:thmbsp: And some of the records I've cleaned I thought were hopeless cases. After cleaning and vacuuming they look and sound great.
Brett a
~◦●○o0o○●◦~
Thanks for clarifying that. The only reason I mentioned it is that I have seen folks just wrap the end and suck through the cloth which seem like a half-measure.
If a towel changes the way it looks ("brings out the shine") then I'd venture to say you're not getting the LP as dry as you think. Or if it;s not water, it's something else. If the LP were dry and clean, there'd be nothing on the surface for the towel to affect.
IMHO, don't waste your money (particularly if you consider a 16.5 a "big purchase"). For far less money, you can buy yourself an inexpensive wet / dry vacuum (for less than $30 new) and a used record player to spin the record while "scrubbing". Get a a set of disc doc brushes and some MoFi Enzyme Plus solution and your set for well under $100.
The big advantages of the VPI are 1) it's a self-contained unit, and 2) it's "pretty". But bang-for-buck, I'll take my DIY solution any day of the week.
If you think a Spin Clean does a good job, wait until you vacuum after an enzyme soak / scrub.
Damn...what happened to that nice old Pioneer:tears: OTOH it is one of the prettiest RCM I've seen :yes:
I have a hypothesis on this. I think it's possible that the air-drying allows the grunge that is still in the grooves to re-harden. When I cleaned mine, I wiped furiously with the towel and then took it for a spin. The grunge was still soft from the cleaning. The cartridge, a AT440mla acted like a plow and dug the grunge out. The effect was a ball of grunge on the stylus. After vacuuming the grunge was gone and no more ball on the stylus. Just thinking out loud
drillher
Super Member
I'm starting to think that vacuuming the water solution off of the records after Spin Clean might be a good idea.I made a drying platform with a disk that supports the label area of the record and has a dowel spindle.Where do you buy painting pads for a DIY vacuum wand?
Dave
Dave
geode your hypothesis re the vacuming the fluids and grunge off the record is correct. The vacuming is the key to getting the records clean. Without vacuming, just wiping with a microfiber towel and letting air dry, it does not remove the last of the grunge from the record IMO. The remaining grunge gets imbedded back into the grooves with pressure from the towel. The vacume removes the fluid/grunge from the record for good. I use a three step process of fluid and then vacuming and when I'm finished there is no dirt/grunge left on a record. My proof is an immaculate stylus and records that play as quiet as a CD.
JonL
Lunatic Member
I don't have a spin clean, but I recall reading that some people had the stylus crud build up problem until they thoroughly washed the spin clean brushes. Apparently the brushes have something on them as new that gets onto the records.
I use a Record Doctor Nitty Gritty vacuum RCM. I find that even after a long vacuuming period, there is still a haze of moisture on the record. I don't use a towel, rather I put the record in a dish rack to dry for a couple of minutes before I play it or sleeve it.
I use a Record Doctor Nitty Gritty vacuum RCM. I find that even after a long vacuuming period, there is still a haze of moisture on the record. I don't use a towel, rather I put the record in a dish rack to dry for a couple of minutes before I play it or sleeve it.
nrenter
Active Member
Rather than velvet (or some other cloth), use the DiscDoc adhesive replacement pads as the medium that sits between the LP and the crevice tool.
http://www.discdoc.com/p15.html
Item I: Replacement Pads (WET or DRY): set of 4 $14.00
The fibers will really get into those grooves, and along with the vacuum action, it these pads works really well to assist with extraction.
Geode's hypothesis is right on the money: Air-drying allows the grunge that is still in the grooves to re-harden.
And if you wet scrub, vacuum dry, and place in a new sleeve, a fiber brush is unnecessary (for the most part - unless it is very and obviously linty / dusty). It just builds up a static charge on your records.
http://www.discdoc.com/p15.html
Item I: Replacement Pads (WET or DRY): set of 4 $14.00
The fibers will really get into those grooves, and along with the vacuum action, it these pads works really well to assist with extraction.
Geode's hypothesis is right on the money: Air-drying allows the grunge that is still in the grooves to re-harden.
And if you wet scrub, vacuum dry, and place in a new sleeve, a fiber brush is unnecessary (for the most part - unless it is very and obviously linty / dusty). It just builds up a static charge on your records.
nrenter
Active Member
It's worth more as a record cleaning machine than a player.
jsixis
Nothing sounds better
I only use the sink for filthy records.
Clean records get a wet wipe down with a discwasher and then a clean microfiber cloth used just like the disk washer till the record is dry.
I also use a magic eraser after a couple of plays on the stylus.
Dirt and goo is seldom seen
Clean records get a wet wipe down with a discwasher and then a clean microfiber cloth used just like the disk washer till the record is dry.
I also use a magic eraser after a couple of plays on the stylus.
Dirt and goo is seldom seen
I was like you and then found a KAB EV1 used on eBay and used it this past week and it is magic. I was planning a DIY solution but the KAB EV1 was inexpensive enough to make it all worthwhile.
And yes, vacuuming does make a substantial difference. And no additional wiping should be done after vacuuming - this is probably the point of maximum cleanliness and adding any new variable or processes is only a new chance for more dirt.
nrenter
Active Member
The DiscDoc pads are 3.25" x 2" (approx) and adhesive-backed. If strategically placed, and a hole is drilled in the tool to fit over the spindle (assuming you're using a turntable to assist with the cleaning) the 3.25" length should accommodate the playable surface of most records.
IMHO, you have a few options for the tool modifications:
1) A single slit on the edge or on the flat top (bottom) of the tool. I'd pass on this approach.
2) Three (3) slits on the flat top (bottom). This would maxmize the contact of the pad with the LP, and provide better "wicking" for liquid from all areas of the pad (reducing the perceived need for a wipe after vacuuming).
3) Instead of slits, use a drill to place a patter of holes on the flat top (bottom).
IMHO, you have a few options for the tool modifications:
1) A single slit on the edge or on the flat top (bottom) of the tool. I'd pass on this approach.
2) Three (3) slits on the flat top (bottom). This would maxmize the contact of the pad with the LP, and provide better "wicking" for liquid from all areas of the pad (reducing the perceived need for a wipe after vacuuming).
3) Instead of slits, use a drill to place a patter of holes on the flat top (bottom).
nrenter
Active Member
I guess I haven't really mentioned why I use a turntable to help clean my LPs...
I use a bent wire clothes hanger to keep a disc doc brush in contact with the LP while spinning. This keeps the MoFi enzyme fluid in contact with the LP for the recommended 3 to 5 minutes while gently "scrubbing" the LP.
My intent was to create an automated machine similar to a Loricraft (that's why you see a bobbin on the top of the epoxied headshell). That didn't work, and, in retrospect I like using the disc doc pad much better. It gives once last chance to scrub and wick the gunk out of the grooves.
I use a bent wire clothes hanger to keep a disc doc brush in contact with the LP while spinning. This keeps the MoFi enzyme fluid in contact with the LP for the recommended 3 to 5 minutes while gently "scrubbing" the LP.
My intent was to create an automated machine similar to a Loricraft (that's why you see a bobbin on the top of the epoxied headshell). That didn't work, and, in retrospect I like using the disc doc pad much better. It gives once last chance to scrub and wick the gunk out of the grooves.
Do you happen to have an instruction build or something of that nature? I'd LOVE to see a youtube video of yours in action as I'm getting ready to uild one out of an old Technics I have laying around. Just gathering ideas, the DiscDoc brushes seem like the best option so far.
This is what I do with very good results. Shop vac with crevice tool wrapped with velvet. The vac actually sucks the record up and will hold it in place while you manually turn it. The Spin Clean solution seems to work well. I havene't used my homebrew in the Spin Clean for comaprison, yet.