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Doused drink in pioneer sx 9000. Should I even try?

smead

smead

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
My 2nd sx9000 project didn't go as well as the first. Had blown fuses in both channels. When I removed the top to clean and Deoxit, I noticed what looked like a sticky beer / soda stain to the right of the transformer, right in the middle of the big caps. The caps themselves look good, no bulging or leaking, looks like this was a beer spill. After cleaning and new fuses, they blew again upon power up.

The stained area is void of any boards on top, but below the filter caps is the rectifier board. Upon removing it, it looks like it took a hit. There is black dried goo on the underside. The other boards appear to have been spared.

I'm a novice, have limited test equipment and experience/expertise, but I think I can handle replacing this small board, only has a few connections. I can pick up a rectifier board on ebay for a reasonable price.

My question is this - assuming it was doused while powered on, how likely is it that the damage would be limited to the rectifier board? I'm tempted to give it a shot, but if it shorting most likely will have fried everything else it's connected to, I'll probably be over my head and as good as these receivers sound, I doubt it is worth sinking too much money into.

Thoughts and opinions appreciated. Thank you!

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gunk on the metal chassis really isn't a big deal. The board you can probably clean up. If the only thing going on there is the rectifiers are installed, you can easily rebuild that with new ones provided the traces aren't dissolved. Probably less than 5 bucks worth of components.
 
I would do a quick in-circuit check on those caps and the driver + output transistors, before power up. Indeed use a DBT and pray for mercy..

It is definitely worth a try.
 
I feel your pain. Back in about 1982 my brother-in-law dropped a rum and coke right on top of my Sansui g-7500 while it was playing. Instant silence! I had it repaired by an electronics shop. It did work after the repair but never sounded as good as it did before the repair. The shop probably used whatever parts they had on hand versus sourcing the correct parts. Give the repair a shot. It's doable.
 
painttoad said:
5 bucks in parts. 10 bucks in shipping. smh

power it up through a dim bulb first.
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Someone needs to know about Digikey free US/Canada shipping...send a check with order, include tax and tariff and they ship free. Or order over 50-100 bucks worth of Mouser from a country overseas it seems. I don't do any of the latter.
 
I'm impatient so I try and order at least $100 worth of crap each time. Last order was something like $150 and I think almost $100 was just resistors.
 
Blue Shadow said:
Someone needs to know about Digikey free US/Canada shipping...send a check with order, include tax and tariff and they ship free. Or order over 50-100 bucks worth of Mouser from a country overseas it seems. I don't do any of the latter.
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i don't do checks and i live in the states but yes, i had heard about that but i hate waiting anyway. i usually just do fedex for $8 and they deliver on sundays.

gadget73 said:
I'm impatient so I try and order at least $100 worth of crap each time. Last order was something like $150 and I think almost $100 was just resistors.
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mine generally run between $60-$80. i've been working on stocking more metal film resistors but i'm doing it slowly. maybe one day i will have the need to buy $100 of resistors in one shot.
 
I needed a lot of odd values to rebuild one specific piece of gear and I splurged a bit for nicer than what I typically buy parts.
 
gadget73 said:
I needed a lot of odd values to rebuild one specific piece of gear and I splurged a bit for nicer than what I typically buy parts.
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usually filter caps tend to jack up my orders the highest or , and it's becoming more and more common. having to put in 3 orders to 3 stores and paying shipping 3 times because of supply problems and buying more than i need to keep the per price part down and a future outtage of that part.... it's really starting to suck.
 
Very repairable whatever resulted from the spill. One of the beautiful things about vintage units, almost always repairable. Dive into it, probably a lot less wrong than one might think. Clean it up of course. I used to like checking in units like that, always a predictable amount of work with basic troubleshooting.
 
I got the rectifier board for cheap off ebay, will also replace the 4 big power/output filter caps. After that, I'll see what happens. Thanks all.
 
I'd plan on replacing all the electrolytic caps simply due to age, it's 50 at least. Wouldn't hurt to do zeners if there are any, and any transistors on the "shoot on sight" list as they are very likely bad.

Also, any glass bead type diodes and any tantalum capacitors, not familiar with that unit to know if there are any.
 
Update - replaced the rectifier board and the 4 big power/output filter caps. Same issue. When I power it on, I get a loud hum through the speakers for a second or two, then it blows both channel fuses.

Not sure I have the will or expertise to replace all caps or test/replace potentially faulty transistors. Any ideas where the short might be given that it pops both fuses? I would like to get this working. I have another one that sounds lovely. Was going to save this for parts, but it is cosmetically very nice, would like to make it sing!
 
If I continue to work on this, I'll need to build one. Fuses are getting expensive...
 
You really should learn to test transistors for shorts. It's not that hard at all. I would start by testing the output transistors inside that black wire cage. Take them out one at a time and check for shorts between the emitter and collector. Can't tell what type of emitter resistors that thing has but these will also need to be checked for being open.
 
painttoad said:
usually filter caps tend to jack up my orders the highest or , and it's becoming more and more common. having to put in 3 orders to 3 stores and paying shipping 3 times because of supply problems and buying more than i need to keep the per price part down and a future outtage of that part.... it's really starting to suck.
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I hear ya! Just went through this today. Two different transistors from tow different suppliers and having to pay shipping charges at each supplier.
 
cademan said:
You really should learn to test transistors for shorts. It's not that hard at all. I would start by testing the output transistors inside that black wire cage. Take them out one at a time and check for shorts between the emitter and collector. Can't tell what type of emitter resistors that thing has but these will also need to be checked for being open.
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For about $75 consider purchasing a Atlas DCA-55 Transistor Tester. I purchased one recently and I have used it more than I thought I would. It's pretty handy and will identify shorts on the transistor as well as other characteristics including gain specs if you had to match transistors. Just a thought.
 
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