Dual 1218 Clueless

[strengthguy]

I was given an old Dual recently and want to bring back to Sonic glory. After removing plenty of "ear wax" from when this was built in at a stand still. The platter will barrrrrrrely start to turn when plugged in. I'm weighing if the motor is shot, if it can be cleaned to a point of function, or if I'm barking up the wrong tree?? Please help

 

[Patrice B]

A complete cleaning and lubing and maybe stripping down the motor and re-oiling is a must. Also, check the cleanliness and the wear of the idler drive and inner platter rim...

 

[ILLINOISgoy]

A complete cleaning and lubing and maybe stripping down the motor and re-oiling is a must. Also, check the cleanliness and the wear of the idler drive and inner platter rim...

high concentrate alcohol to clean all that rust looking corrosion ya think?

 

[ArDrakho]

I agree with Patrice B, a complete overhaul is needed.

 

[62vauxhall]

I bet the motor or the idler wheel are the cause. With the platter off, you can easily see, or more accurately feel if the motor is up to snuff me pinching the pulley as the motor is running.

Idler wheels frequently develop a "crust" of hardened rubber on the edge. I use a sanding block on the edge and spin the idler with a variable speed drill. Roughly speaking, sanding off 1/64 of an inch, more or less does the trick.

If lightly pinching the motor pulley slows it easily or stops it, the motor needs cleaning and oiling. Which is not a bad thing to do anyway for all the time it takes.

When you get the platter turning properly, you can assess what other parts of the mechanism needs attention.

If the platter comes to a stop fairly soon after the motor shuts off, the platter bearing could use cleaning and re-oiling as well.

 

[Montycat]

I wish this Dual service guide was in the sticky. Check it over; it deals with most Dual issues, not just the 1219/1229.

http://akdatabase.com/AKview/displayimage.php?album=103&pos=0

 

[mhjmhjones]

I bet it is the idler wheel. Give the platter a little push when it is starting up. If it's anything like the two Duals I've owned, if the TT has been inactive for some time, the idler wheel has a hard time engaging with the platter. But as I use the TT more and more, the issue goes away. If I don't use the TT for a while, like a long vacation or something, it'll start sluggish like that. You can get a rubber rejuvenator for the wheel, but I haven't needed it. I simply cleaned the idler wheel with plain water and the inside rim of the platter with alcohol. Just use the table a lot!

I wouldn't sand the idler wheel personally.

 

[Patrice B]

I've heard it is ok with a press drill to be sure the wheel doesn't become eccentric. The other solution in case the idler wheel is completely worn is to send it to Gary Stork at the Voice of Music. They will send you a rebuilt one...

However, a good cleaning (with alcohol) and lubing of the platter bearing, motor and idler wheel shaft should at least give you an idea of the condition of the 1218.

The service manual is easily available at VinylEngine and in the Dual subforum, you'll find a complete guide for motor and main bearing service in the stickies.

Patrice

 

[bangsezmax]

Already some good advice on this thread, I'll add what my steps are for cases like this.

What will typically prevent a 1218 from turning is either the motor, the idler wheel, or the linkage that the idler wheel attaches to.

Lift the platter (you may have to remove the ring clip).

First, check the linkage -- I've overlooked this in the past, and it's one of the simplest things to fix. The linkage that holds the idler wheel assembly will have a circlip that holds a bushing on a post. The linkage should swing back and forth on that post easily. If the motion feels stiff or sticky at all, pull the circlip, clean/lube (light machine oil) the post and bushing and reassemble.

Motor: Try to spin the motor pulley with your fingers. Does it spin easily and spin for a few seconds after you let it go? If so, then the motor is probably okay (although you may eventually want to clean it out to help prolong its life and reduce noise). If it feels stiff and sticky, it definitely needs an overhaul. You can find more info on how to do that here on AK if you poke around.

Idler: If the idler wheel is rock hard and not pliable at all, just order a rebuilt one. If the wheel has some pliability, look at the rim -- does it look shiny or cracked? If it has visible cracks, order a rebuilt one. Does the ilder spin easily on its post? If not, it may just need some light machine oil on that bearing. Try engaging the linkage that turns on the motor and pulls the idler up against the pulley. There should feel like there's a decent amount of friction/torque between the idler and the pulley. If it feels like it's not gripping very well, see if the rim of the idler looks shiny and worn. If so, it's worth a shot at resurfacing.

Resurfacing the idler: This works quite often on Duals, but you have to do it carefully. Remove the idler by pulling off the little plastic washer that holds it in place (don't lose this! You will need it later.) I use a drill, holding the long bushing at the bottom of the idler wheel assembly in the chuck where the drill bit goes. Make sure the idler wheel is spinning perfectly true and evenly on the drill. Then sand the rim/edge of the idler against some fine sandpaper (I use 220 grit). You should see black stuff coming off it. Sand until it goes from gloss to matte. Don't over do it. Reinstall the idler with the locking washer. Every once in a while, the idler needs two shots at resurfacing. But you really need to be careful so as to not significantly reduce the diameter of the wheel.

Good luck.

 

[illinoisteve]

I wouldn't give up on the motor without taking it apart, cleaning, and relubing the bearings. But lots of things short of the motor, as have been pointed out, could be keeping the platter from turning. Check, clean, relube, step-by-step, and you'll find and probably fix the problem. But don't force any control levers while testing.