I am (far too slowly for my liking) fixing a Dual 1219. I am not happy with the tension against the arm as you manually move it into position over the record. The previous owner had it and a Grundig R2R wired into a cabinet that also included connections for the phone, the front door bell and possibly the bathroom scales. You will see from the photos that there is an additional? micro switch activated when the tone arm moves into position which adds to the tension against the arm. That switch is not mentioned in the service manual and I am wondering if it is a ring in. (There was a similar micro switch mounted very professionally in the Grundig and I am not sure if the old German who previously owned this hand built console had installed these or whether they were original.) My dilemma is exacerbated by the fact that the usual motor switch which looks and appears to function perfectly, fails to break the circuit to the motor which consequently would run constantly if not for this micro switch Can anyone assist?
Dual 1219 problems
- Thread starter Fossil
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That's pretty much the way many of them look..:yes:
bohhey
Dualaholic
When the 1219 is turned on, the main arm engages that added on micro switch, closing the contact and turning on some other component. Remove it. There is a way to achieve the same result in the power distribution box. In that same box, there is an adjustment if the Dual refuses to turn off, but a COMPLETE tear down and cleaning usually solves that problem.
Hi, I believe the micro switch has been added, not in Service Manual or in my 1219. The arm going into the Factory Power Switch has spring balanced contacts for power on & off. I have made micro adjustment to get it working properly, my 1219 would not shut off. If the contact arm is pushed to the spindle side, that is motor powered 'on'. When the 'off' mechanism is enabled either by the manual 'off' lever or 'end of record' tone arm position, that contact arm will flip to opposite side, 'pwr off'. Before I get into more detail, lock the Tone Arm in place and let it cycle to reset itself. With luck that may help. If not, here is my recent experience with my Dual suggests. Page 13 of SM gives you some info on the shutoff mechanism.
First I would disconnect that micro switch and get Power Switch wired correctly. This is an example of 120VAC USA model, do not know your service. The 4 pin power plug: White ground wire is on pin 1, pin #2 neutral from AC cord; pin#3 empty; pin#4 +AC from AC cord. Motor; green and black wires are on #3 pin terminal, motor yellow and orange wires are on pin #4 terminal. There should be a axial capacitor .007uf, 700V in the switch, part/position #163. It should be across pin terminals 2 (-) & 3(+).
Unplugged, you watch it operate and when you move the selector lever to off, the 'switch arm' (part/ position#147) to the switch contacts moves as the platter turns? This movement should flip the contact to the power off position, away from center spindle. If that #147 arm is moving, then maybe you can disconnect micro switch and wire it per factory. But first, if the contact does not move, carefully manually move it, to insure they are not fused. If not fused, and wiring is corrected, micro bending of the lever mechanism, where the rivet attaches #147 arm to contact via spring, would be the last step. You will probably bend it (1mm)to the outside, toward the open contact position. You can move contact it to see how it is a spring balanced see-saw action.
On vinylengine.com, I picked up a lot of info at their Dual Forum. Good tips!
First I would disconnect that micro switch and get Power Switch wired correctly. This is an example of 120VAC USA model, do not know your service. The 4 pin power plug: White ground wire is on pin 1, pin #2 neutral from AC cord; pin#3 empty; pin#4 +AC from AC cord. Motor; green and black wires are on #3 pin terminal, motor yellow and orange wires are on pin #4 terminal. There should be a axial capacitor .007uf, 700V in the switch, part/position #163. It should be across pin terminals 2 (-) & 3(+).
Unplugged, you watch it operate and when you move the selector lever to off, the 'switch arm' (part/ position#147) to the switch contacts moves as the platter turns? This movement should flip the contact to the power off position, away from center spindle. If that #147 arm is moving, then maybe you can disconnect micro switch and wire it per factory. But first, if the contact does not move, carefully manually move it, to insure they are not fused. If not fused, and wiring is corrected, micro bending of the lever mechanism, where the rivet attaches #147 arm to contact via spring, would be the last step. You will probably bend it (1mm)to the outside, toward the open contact position. You can move contact it to see how it is a spring balanced see-saw action.
On vinylengine.com, I picked up a lot of info at their Dual Forum. Good tips!
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Thanks for the information. The black grease is a molybdenum grease that I have rather generously applied after a clean out of some of the old hardened grease: I will remove the excess before putting the turntable back into service. I will aslo now physically remove the additional micro-switch, which when I had previousy disconnected I discovered the problem with the main switch not turning off the motor, even though the reed switch opens and shuts with the action of the arm moving the switch slide. I wondered if the capacitor across the terminals (2 and 3 I think) might have something to do with it. My soldering iron gave up the ghost yesterday and I have not had a chance to investigate further. In the meantime, the pin connections apppear to be correct according to the SM. I will aslo study Hatman's reply more closely tomorrow with the SM and the turntable in sight. Thanks again for your input.
Peter.
Peter.
If the reed switch is functioning properly, then maybe the wiring was altered. I listed the motor's four wire positions and plug wire order, so check that. As a reference; in the off/ non-activated position and unplugged, if I manually close the reed switch, I am getting 162 ohms across pins 2 & 4 (AC pins). I do not know enough about the Elec/tech area to know if the capacitor is at fault, kind of doubt it. If it runs with the reed switch in the open (Off) position, then it seems to be a wiring issue that has taken the reed switch out of the circuit.
Although I do not think these links are directly related to your problem, check out the 'pimple' & 'rubber washer' problems. Both are common wear issues and easy fixes. No lube on pimple or its contact area. The second link is to my post regarding rubber washer repair.
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13104
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24228
Although I do not think these links are directly related to your problem, check out the 'pimple' & 'rubber washer' problems. Both are common wear issues and easy fixes. No lube on pimple or its contact area. The second link is to my post regarding rubber washer repair.
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=13104
http://www.vinylengine.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24228
In my post #6 that is where I described the cap, across pins 2 & 3, noting the polarity. Do not know if I confused the issue in my post #8 by stating an ohm reading on pins 2&4, with the reed switch closed.
Seems like the start-stop mechanism is now working properly. The tone arm drag remains? I was warned that the nut (5/16"or smaller) under the tone arm can loosen and rub on the guide. Worth a check.
Seems like the start-stop mechanism is now working properly. The tone arm drag remains? I was warned that the nut (5/16"or smaller) under the tone arm can loosen and rub on the guide. Worth a check.