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Dual 1219 Tonearm Issue

eddiec

New Member
Hi Everyone, my recent Dual 1219 purchase has been running great for the past few months and even better with a new Shure stylus. But, 2 days ago I began hearing a strange noise. When I start it there is a stange 'creaking' sound coming from the base of the tonearm as it lifts up and sets down. Once in the groove it plays fine and the are no audible issues once it has started playing. It makes the same noise on the automatic return as well. I've read some threads about Dual 1219's having a big issue with the Steuerpimple. Is this the beginning of that problem?
 
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The service manual at VinylEngine would help. It's probably the sound of the steuerpimpel rubbing across the surface of the main lever. It's possibly a sign that the steuerpimpel is wearing out or that the "spatulated" end of the main lever needs cleaning (or both).

John

http://www.vinylengine.com/library/dual/1219.shtml
 
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Ooooo... Spatulated! I like it.

StripesAuntJemimaTreatment.JPG


Sometimes a homemade clutch tip (steuerpimpel) can cause a groaning sound if it's left too tall on the pin it's mounted on, or if it doesn't allow the spring loaded pin to deflect. Just a thought.
 
Ooooo... Spatulated! I like it.

My spell checker didn't. Stupid spill chucker! ;)

Sometimes a homemade clutch tip (steuerpimpel) can cause a groaning sound if it's left too tall on the pin it's mounted on, or if it doesn't allow the spring loaded pin to deflect. Just a thought.

Yes, that'll do it too.

John
 
Pronunciation guide:

SHTOY-ur-PIHM-puhl

I don't recall mine making a noise when it was wearing out. If it isn't worn out, the plate underneath it slides against could be dirty. Or something in the linkage that moves the tonearm could be binding enough to make noise.
 
And do not lubricate the pimpel either. It requires friction to work properly. In fact it is never a good idea to lubricate anything on a Dual turntable that isn't mentioned as needing lubrication in the Service Manual.
On Dual's too much lubrication can be worse than not enough.
 
It also may be the connecction to the long narrow linkage that rides on a ball bearing under the platter. Mine made a similar noise after I recently freed up the multi position adjust on the TA assembly on one of mine. I had all the usual issues, frozen/hardened grease where the rubber ring holds the detent bearings in place, so the inner cylinder would not slide. Once I cleaned up that area (a chore on it's own), lubed it up, etc, I had to put it back together and adjust the black curved slotted plastic guide, which I had to remove to get it all apart. The TA would stop in the middle of a record, a malady written about in other threads, caused by the misadjustment of this part. Besides adjusting it for minimum friction by feel, (and it works fine now) is there any definitive correct adjustment? It seems a crude way to minimize TA lateral friction, when the TA is already moving a lot of parts as it moves.
 
I believe that it is possible to break the rubber ring if it is deteriorated and the multiposition lever is moved when some of the associated parts are stuck. Procede with caution.
 
I thought that the steuerpimpel was the issue on my 1229 also. I just disassembled the tonearm and associated parts then cleaned/relubed them today. The tonearm didn't seem like it needed cleaned/relubed, but afterwards the tonearm is working like a champ with the old steuerpimpel. That washer for the single, multi function can be replaced. I think that "South Street Service" has them, but I also saw that someone was selling the washer and both ball bearings on Ebay. It was cracked on mine.

Adam from "South Street Service" told me yesterday that they have a homemade substitute for the steuerpimpel and that it works very well. I would think that the one for the 1219 would be the same, but not sure.
 
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I've done the fix a few times. The rubber ring hardens to rock, and is no good. The fuel injector ring kit mentioned in a few threads has 4 that work perfectly for a few bucks. The rubber ring is what puts pressure on the bearings to hold the shaft at the indents. It must be firmly pliable to work correctly. If cracked or hardened, it is useless, and can cause damage of hard to replace plastic parts within the mechanism. Mine work perfectly now. I was only asking (and I looked, a LOT, believe me) if there is a definitive position to set the curved slotted plastic guide. If you've taken apart a 1219 or 3, you know exactly what part I mean.
 
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