• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Dual 1228

markl said:
... The motor is very quiet on these and if it's not touching anything you probably won't hear motor noise.
Mark:scratch2:
Click to expand...

The motor CAN be very quiet, unless the bearings are as dry as the gummed up linkage, then it can chirp like a sparrow. If it is running quietly that is good. If it were noisy it might just need to be disassembled and have the bearings cleaned and relubed. If it really isn't running, it could be a problem in the power cord or the box or contacts inside where it attaches. I forget whether you mentioned trying to manually move the tonearm over the edge of the platter. If there isn't a cord or connection problem, that might switch on the motor, if not all of the linkage is frozen.

Just try a few little things at a time, each time plugging it back in and seeing if it made any difference. Caution is good.

Also, explore vinyl engine for a model that seems very close to yours that has a service manual. The service manual has some trouble-shooting question lists that might help you think through what issues are related to what problems and possible solutions. Even if not every bit of the mechanics are identical to your model, you could learn a lot from reading the service manual for a similar model.
 
Netdewt said:
...I have still not gotten the chassis off. The manual from vinyl engine (no paper manual with the player) is just an owner's manual. I figured out how those screws work for transporting the table though, and I did find some screws on the bottom of the table... not sure if I should go to town on those or not...
Click to expand...


Maybe there should be a Sticky on "how to take a Dual off its base"...

The two transport screws have two wets of threads. If they are screwed all the way in, the head is down on to the plinth. Now screw the screw out, counterclockwise. It'll go past the first set of threads--maybe 1/5 inch of travel since you started unscrewing-- and suddenly be free of this first set of threads. Now tilt th escrew so the bottom (unexposed part) tilts inward to the center of the TT. Lift the chassis up off the base with the screw tilted inward. Sometimes the springs can get a little bound up in the base so it may take a little jiggling but it should come up easily.
 
I found the service manual and I'm going to fiddle some more tonight.

nashvillebill - I did this (as per the owners manual diagram) and it would not come off, so I stopped... I assumed I was doing something wrong. I'll jiggle some more.

illinoissteve - the arm did move over to the platter before the levers locked up. Now the levers and the arm are locked.

If I get this thing apart safely, what kind of grease should I use? The guy at Needledoctor suggested white lithium grease?
 
Okay... some success and more info.

I got the chassis off and had a look underneath. The motor definitely spins and does turn the platter, however the tonearm automation is causing problems. It does not start without help and does not return all the way without help.

The start and stop lever is not stuck, the speed change lever does seem to be.

The tiny wires that go to the tonearm (underneath) are completely severed. So, obviously, no sound comes out even when a record is humming along. I could hear some music coming directly from the stylus though! (I was born in the 80's... give me a break.)

I'm probably going to end up bringing it somewhere... not exactly the cost effective solution I was looking for. It sure is a beautiful machine though.
 
All you need is a clutch tip for arm movement, and a new arm wire harness. All other functions appear to work.
These parts are available and affordable.
Are you good with a soldering pencil? The wires are certainly tiny, but not impossible to solder, if you have some soldering skills. A new arm harness has the wires pre-soldered to the little p.c. board that is visible inside the front of the arm. You would need to snake the new cable through, and solder the wire ends to the mute switch and one short black wire [arm ground] to a brass tab under the arm head.

Doing things yourself will aid in creating skills which will some day help you rebuild that first tube amp or Chevy 350 engine.

Seth
Forever Analog and Covered In Parrot Poop
 
Where can such parts be purchased?

From BOHHEY's fixmydual.com:

(1) The tone arm clutch pad (part. # 223777) deteriorates, impairing tone arm lateral motion during cycling - replace.
(2) The single-multi tone arm height adjustment switch uses a rubber retainer for positive switching - this deteriorates causing the tone arm to bind laterally - replace.
(3) The speed selector assembly gets sticky, causing the idler wheel to have difficulty engaging the motor pulley - clean.
(4) Contacts and lead wires in head-shell and cartridge carrier oxidize, causing signal loss and/or hum - clean.
(5) The start/stop levers get sticky, causing unresponsiveness, or often the levers will stick in start position - clean.
(7) The large metal lever that goes to the motor power switch at one end and to a latch near the arm at the other gets sticky, causing the machine to have difficulty either starting or stopping motor rotation - clean.
(10) Dress the edge of the idler wheel to expose new rubber for positive contact.
Click to expand...
 
For years, I have been recommending WWW.turntableexperts.com of Long Island, N.Y.
He has tons Dual parts, and of all things, tons of BIC parts. His prices have gone through the roof and then some. So, what are we to do? There is a wonderful alternative.
Even after considering postage from Canada, All-In-One in Toronto is waaaaay cheaper on most Dual parts. As a matter of fact, he has parts that you would not even dream still existed. Highly recommended. 416-789-0668 or
http://www.all-electronics.com/

***I have no connection to either parts distributor.***

Seth
Forever Analog and Covered In Parrot Poop
 
Seth - I'll take you one further....

As you know, South Street bought the United Audio (Dual's US importer) parts inventory when they went out of business. But, did you know that the Canadian importer of Dual (Noresco) was run by Robert Tracy - the very person to talk to at All In One....
 
bohhey said:
Seth - I'll take you one further....

As you know, South Street bought the United Audio (Dual's US importer) parts inventory when they went out of business. But, did you know that the Canadian importer of Dual (Noresco) was run by Robert Tracy - the very person to talk to at All In One....
Click to expand...


Bohhey,

I didn't know you were THE Bill at fixmydual! You taught me how to relube my 1229 motor bearings just a few weeks ago!!!! You sonovagun! You dadburned saint you.

The motor is still working. Little linkage imbalances still to ferret out, but quite usable...and great sounding.

Now, considering how you didn't rush to sell me a new motor even though I was ready to send the dough, I would guess you would NOT advise netdewt to begin by replacing a bunch of parts without first cleaning and relubing those linkage and mechanical surfaces first. If the parts that just need freeing up start working, then a person might be able to tell if a particular part actually needs replacing.

Also, depending on where the break in the audio wiring is and how much slack there is, wouldn't it pay to first splice and solder them back together, at least to check if there are other problems, even if you want to have the whole cable replaced later?

If newdewt really prefers to have a pro recondition this dual, then I think he should consider sending it to fixmydual. Perhaps the decorum of this forum forbids your mentioning that, Bill, so I will, out of gratitude for your selfless contributions to my motor.

Newdewt, where are you in the world? Others here might know of a place near you where you could take it as well.
 
I'm still undecided on what to do. I live in Minneapolis, and I have relatives-in-law living in Des Moines (home of FixMyDual) so I could bring it down at some point... or have it brought.

Part of me wants to try and tackle this myself, but I am afraid to spend a bunch of money of parts and such and then have to send it to FixMyDual anyways. Also, the severed tonearm cord would not be covered in the reconditioning fee (I think). The guy at NeedleDoctor told me to throw it out of a moving car... screw that.

I'll post a picture of the tonearm mess when I get a second.

I was pointed to Vintage Music Co in town here. I talked to a repair guy who said that Duals are very difficult to repair and that he actually manufactures a part that wears out because it is unavailable... that doesn't sound right to me. He quoted $150-250 not including tonearm stuff, which he said would be a lot more.
 
In another post, Seth described how he repaired tonearm wires. I don't try, as I have bunches of them. These wires were delicate to begin with, and with age, can become brittle. I just change them out.
 
Bill is not exactly accurate.
I have never posted how to repair the wires, only how to replace them, by soldering new cables to the p.c. board. This is how good I am with the soldering pencil. I can use any quality cable desired by the customer, even Kimber Kable brand, and have done just that.
Patching them would be dumb.
Have rarely found them to get brittle. Dual used silicon jacketing on the older arm wires, that is very resistant to drying out. Even their newer 5-conductor cables with plastic insulation were decent. But mice and gerbels do seem to adore them. I always have a few sets in my parts drawers, as well.
Netdewt has little wrong with his Dual. He can easily manage a new arm harness, clutch tip, and motor oiling. He does show the desire to try. The 1218/1228 is far less complicated than, let us say, a 1229.
Of course, a Dual guy would do a great job, but sometimes the two of us need to permit the Peanut Gallery to fend for itself, with a bit of guidance from us when needed..

P.S., Do not fault the town repair shop, because it makes its own clutch tip replacement. He does this out of necessity, and I bet that his part is better than original. I also make that part. So do most Dual owners on this web site.
The top-end of his estimate is through-the-roof, though.

Seth
Forever Analog and Covered In Parrot Poop
 
Netdewt said:
I'm still undecided on what to do. I live in Minneapolis, and I have relatives-in-law living in Des Moines (home of FixMyDual) so I could bring it down at some point... or have it brought.

Part of me wants to try and tackle this myself, but I am afraid to spend a bunch of money of parts and such and then have to send it to FixMyDual anyways. Also, the severed tonearm cord would not be covered in the reconditioning fee (I think). The guy at NeedleDoctor told me to throw it out of a moving car... screw that.

I'll post a picture of the tonearm mess when I get a second.

I was pointed to Vintage Music Co in town here. I talked to a repair guy who said that Duals are very difficult to repair and that he actually manufactures a part that wears out because it is unavailable... that doesn't sound right to me. He quoted $150-250 not including tonearm stuff, which he said would be a lot more.
Click to expand...

I think a complete recondition from Fixmydual is somewhat less than $150. Parts would be extra, but I wouldn't assume that you need lots of parts, maybe it is just the tonearm audio cable and something in that trip mechanism.

If you aren't in a big hurry, you might as well see how much you can do on your own. If you want to try replacing that cable yourself, fixmydual might sell you one.
 
Good decision Net. I am a tinkerer and have been poking at my 1229Q for a month now. If I did not enjoy messing with it as much as I do, I'd a sent it off long ago.....that and I am broke. Cheers.
 
audio_setup.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom