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Dual 1229 - speed issues

bimmerlucas

New Member
Hello all,
I’ve been in the process of rebuilding my Dual 1229 for a while now. I’m at a point where I am beyond frustrated however as I just can’t get this thing right. I’ve been chasing down an issue with the speed for a while now. It is very inconsistent. I will have it dialed in just right, with the correct speed and the pitch lever centered. And then I’ll turn it off and turn it back on and the speeds are completely different. It also won’t hold any speed consistently, as well as being very slow to start up. I’ve already opened, cleaned, and lubricated the motor with bearing oil and 10w30. I’ve cleaned the platter rim, idler wheel, and motor pulley dozens of times. I just don’t know what to do anymore. The platter itself spins fine. Any insight would be a life saver, as I’ve wasted enough of mine on this table.
 
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Hello all,
I’ve been in the process of rebuilding my Dual 1229 for a while now. I’m at a point where I am beyond frustrated however as I just can’t get this thing right. I’ve been chasing down an issue with the speed for a while now. It is very inconsistent. I will have it dialed in just right, with the correct speed and the pitch lever centered. And then I’ll turn it off and turn it back on and the speeds are completely different. It also won’t hold any speed consistently, as well as being very slow to start up. I’ve already opened, cleaned, and lubricated the motor with bearing oil and 10w30. I’ve cleaned the platter rim, idler wheel, and motor pulley dozens of times. I just don’t know what to do anymore. The platter itself spins fine. Any insight would be a life saver, as I’ve wasted enough of mine on this table.
did you check the capacitor in the switch box?
 
Hey @bimmerlucas and yes, these things can be a real challenge to get right but believe me, there's an answer to the dilemma you have. It's just a matter of finding what it is......I know you have been hard at this and must feel pretty frustrated, I know I was! In my case, it was not an answer but a number of them. First, and I trust you might have done a number of these things, let's rule out a power issue. Have you checked that your motor is properly powered and that you don't just have half of it doing the job like I did? That accounted for my slow start issues so do check that. If it is a table that was made for sale to the U.S. then the wiring block probably looks something like this, yes?

IMG_6412.jpg

That is, of course, missing the plug that comes from the wall outlet and goes in the cavity only one way. Next, if your wiring inside this block looks like this, it's wrong.....I wasn't paying attention and put it back together wrong, which caused a number of issues but very, very slow start was the most prominent feature:

IMG_6413.jpg

With the help of fellow AK'ers, I was able to fix that to look like this:

IMG_6403.jpg

Notice the connector that is empty between the orange and white wires now? You have to be REALLY careful pulling those clips upward on the posts as they break easily.....make a lifter mechanism, a heavy paper clip will do, and shape the end into an L so you can use it to lift up uniformly and SLOWLY. If they've been on there a while, a very small drop of sewing machine oil might help to loosen them a bit. Clean up afterward with a q-tip and isopropyl. If these connectors appear as they do in the second photograph, you don't need to do anything as it is correct. Green on #3, White on #4, #5 is open, Orange on #6 and Black on #7.

If your wiring block does not look like this, then you will unfortunately have to research the service manual for the particular schematic that applies. There are others here who own the 1229 who will know more. Mine is a 1219 and while I believe they are the same, might not be. This should resolve the slow speed-up issue and provide greater stability to your speed overall.

Next, the pulley that the idler wheel rides on has two screws, one is a set screw on the side that keeps the pulley from riding up on the motor spindle. Notice I said "up," and that is because there is a second screw accessed through the hole on the very top of the pulley. This screw keeps your pulley from going any farther downward and is used to set the speed and keep it there. A loose set screw on the side would be a possible cause for it not to hold speed properly as that allows the pulley to travel upward as it spins and the speed increases as a result, but since it's not secured, it can ride back downward also and that gives the wonkey speed readings. Besides, if the set screw is loose, the pulley would spin on the spindle and you can imagine how that would affect the speed......up and down, up and down.....etc. To begin, set the pulley height right in the middle of the 33 section, which is the top part of the cone which is divided into three tiers.

1743140505807.png

Then fine tune from there taking about a half turn with the screw in the top hole of the pulley either direction until you have it really close to 33.33. After that, you can adjust with your pitch control lever to make any slight adjustments necessary.

IMG_5204.JPG
Those are some things that come to mind that I learned just a few weeks ago when I dealt with similar issues such as yours. Hope that helps a bit and let us know how it goes. Lots of help here, and many are very familiar with these tables, much moreso than I, but just thought I'd give you some ideas.....carry on, amigo
 

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Question on the 1228 motor wiring... I recently picked up a fairly inexpensive ($120) for a Dual 1228, very clean, not a bump or scratch, dustcover is perfect, etc. BUT... upon getting home, I noticed it was quite lethargic. I figured lubrication, right. Then I saw the220v-240v sticker under the mechanical side of the unit.
Supposedly I can change this to 110v. via the wiring config. but it is unclear to me what goes where. There are no switches for this, only a terminal block. Is there any advice? I don't want to burn up $120 bucks. There is a schematic on the inside cover of the terminal block box, and it appears to be the same as the one commonly found in the manual.
Thank you.
 
Doug, it is suggested that you create your own thread to eliminate confusion. The wiring diagram is available in the "1228" service manual as Figure 3:

1766439804751.png
 
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Hello all,
I’ve been in the process of rebuilding my Dual 1229 for a while now. I’m at a point where I am beyond frustrated however as I just can’t get this thing right. I’ve been chasing down an issue with the speed for a while now. It is very inconsistent. I will have it dialed in just right, with the correct speed and the pitch lever centered. And then I’ll turn it off and turn it back on and the speeds are completely different. It also won’t hold any speed consistently, as well as being very slow to start up. I’ve already opened, cleaned, and lubricated the motor with bearing oil and 10w30. I’ve cleaned the platter rim, idler wheel, and motor pulley dozens of times. I just don’t know what to do anymore. The platter itself spins fine. Any insight would be a life saver, as I’ve wasted enough of mine on this table.
I’ll bet The idler wheel isn’t swinging into position.
You’ve got to remove the wheel and clean the whole mechanism that swings and raises and lowers the idler wheel. This can be done without disassembly. Just get in there with qtips and alcohol.
 
Hey @Doug69, take a look at the pictures above that I attached in post #4, this one in particular:

IMG_6403.jpg

You mention that there is no switch to go from 220V to 110V?? My 1219 does have a switch, but if I recall you still have to make changes to where the motor wires attach to the block. If the 1228 is the same as the 1219, when you take the cover off of the wiring block this is how the wires should look. Looking from right to left where the white switch voltage selector is towards the bottom, the first terminal on the right is where the black wire goes. Right next to it on the left is the orange/red wire. THEN there is an OPEN terminal, and to the left of that is where the white wire goes, and finally immediately to the left of the white wire is the green wire. This made all the difference on my 1219, hopefully it will fix yours up as well. Only thing left to do is make sure your switch is pointed to 110V, but if you have no switch, I believe just connecting the wires as I've shown should give you the proper current to the motor at 110V.

FIND OUT FIRST THAT THE 1228 AND 1219 HAVE THE SAME SCHEMATIC........

Let us know how it goes, amigo......

Edit - Dang, I thought I hit "Post Reply" but saw that I had not. Sorry.....
 
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Here is what my block looks like, just took it apart to get a more definitive picture of it:

IMG_7051.JPEG

And then with the wires attached to it as they are on mine:

IMG_7048.JPEG

When the plug is on there, it connects to pins 2 and 4:

IMG_6413.jpg

And with the voltage selector set to 110, it works flawlessly. So, I hope this is some help to @Doug69......and again, this is only IF YOU CAN CONFIRM THAT YOUR 1228 MOTOR BLOCK IS THE SAME AS MY 1219. Still waiting for someone to chime in on that....
 
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