Dual 506 motor smoke

[Thorsten R.]

@Manfred (lini): Regarding the 506-2: They have an addendum at the manual I linked. This addendum shows the different parts for the -2 - compared to the -1!

 

[lini]

Regarding the 506-2: They have an addendum at the manual I linked. This addendum shows the different parts for the -2 - compared to the -1!

Opps - I didn't notice that. Seems strange, that they've added this to the service manual for the initial 506 rather than to the combined one for the 505 and 506-1, though...

Greetings from Munich!

Manfred / lini

 

[Okke 70s]

If the tt has been standing still quite a lot of dust can accumulate on the resistor and any dust gets burned off when you start the tt (and also during operation)

It sure has been standing still a long time. Not a single subsystem was working right anymore. And boy does this player have a lot of mechanics for such basic functionality.

Unfortunately that won't be quite as easy anymore, as one might think.

I have no illusions about that.. In fact I'm considering to just clean the contacts of the original and see how that works out. Of course the problem might return then over time. Another option might be to fiddle the inside of a replacements switch in to the original's housing.

Those bearings look bone dry and varnished.
They are bright copper when clean.
Qtips and isopropyl will do the job.

Yes they where. I did clean with with alcohol and relubricate.

Also, you should vacuum impregnate them using an oral syringe and a vacuum cap

That looks very thorough! But since the motor is back in now and everything calibrated.. Maybe a bridge to far for me. Doing this for a friend of a friend and it already got out of hand (like always).there's still a few more things to do as it is.

 

[Okke 70s]

For now I have cleaned the contracts of the original switch with sandpaper, then alcohol, contact cleaner and a contract spray. It works, also after thorough testing.

I might have found a cleu as to what caused it in the first place. When the machine is switched off by pulling the arm in, I get nothing over the speakers. But if it switches off automatically, at the end of the record, there is a fairly loud 'pop' over the speakers. So maybe the switch-off mechanism somehow hinders the switch in braking the contract instantly?

There is an original Ortofon element in it by the way and it does sound pretty good!