Dynaco A10 woes

[Blue Shadow]

It really doesn't matter how you go about it, but you can scrape off the glue at the voice coil/tinsel junction on the cone (tinsel is the lead going from the cone to the connection on the basket. Try not to cut the vc wire, hard to get more out of the speaker to redo the connection. I would scrape at the tinsel more than the voice coil on that solder connection.

Then you can test to see if you have a good solid vc wiring in the speaker. If so, it does not matter how you get that vc wiring to connect to the cone wiring. This will be a solid connection that will be attached to the cone. Any wire will work, but don't use 4Ga as it will make the cone to heavy.

Then you will have a nice good wire to install a new tinsel. This needs to be a flexible wire to go from the cone to the basket. It is available on line if your tinsel is not a great conductor. Check it with the meter while you wobble it around. I would use mini-clips on each end and wobble the clips to see that the Zero Ohms remain steady and the OL does not show up (my meter reads OL when there is NO connection).

That gives you an idea of what I would do to resurrect this speaker. If you have a good VC from step one above, you could send the speaker out for repair, maybe 30 bucks or so plus the ride. Should be a speaker repair place in your area. If not, maybe, Richard So would be able to help. He is an ads guru with replacement parts and all for that brand only but I think he is in Phoenix and he would know what to do. Might be worth a call if you get stuck. Google has his info. I don't now that he can help that speaker with its parts but he might be able to install a tinsel to a working voice coil and get you set up.

 

[desertmirage]

It really doesn't matter how you go about it, but you can scrape off the glue at the voice coil/tinsel junction on the cone (tinsel is the lead going from the cone to the connection on the basket. Try not to cut the vc wire, hard to get more out of the speaker to redo the connection. I would scrape at the tinsel more than the voice coil on that solder connection.

Then you can test to see if you have a good solid vc wiring in the speaker. If so, it does not matter how you get that vc wiring to connect to the cone wiring. This will be a solid connection that will be attached to the cone. Any wire will work, but don't use 4Ga as it will make the cone to heavy.

Then you will have a nice good wire to install a new tinsel. This needs to be a flexible wire to go from the cone to the basket. It is available on line if your tinsel is not a great conductor. Check it with the meter while you wobble it around. I would use mini-clips on each end and wobble the clips to see that the Zero Ohms remain steady and the OL does not show up (my meter reads OL when there is NO connection).

That gives you an idea of what I would do to resurrect this speaker. If you have a good VC from step one above, you could send the speaker out for repair, maybe 30 bucks or so plus the ride. Should be a speaker repair place in your area. If not, maybe, Richard So would be able to help. He is an ads guru with replacement parts and all for that brand only but I think he is in Phoenix and he would know what to do. Might be worth a call if you get stuck. Google has his info. I don't now that he can help that speaker with its parts but he might be able to install a tinsel to a working voice coil and get you set up.

Good info, thanks. I'm just worried about somehow cutting through the cone as I expose the wire.

The fact if I touch the battery right as it turns to go through the cone it works, tells me that flex wire needs to be replaced, unless I can tin that turn in the wire, which seems like a quick fix, if it would even work.

The wire looks ok, so I guess as mentioned earlier it may be corroded and it's keeping the signal from going through.

I reached out to Richard to get his input and cost-thanks for that tip!