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Dynaco A25 recap

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No reason any of those won't work. The precision cap has a +/-1% tolerance so if that's important and money's not an issue, I'd go with that one.
 
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A thin strip of rope caulk will seal the woofers against the baffle, just make sure it seals against any voids. I also put a piece around each screw hole.
 
alteclipsch said:
A thin strip of rope caulk will seal the woofers against the baffle, just make sure it seals against any voids. I also put a piece around each screw hole.
Click to expand...
I went with the least expensive option -- the MPT pair.

Got that done, but one of the speakers I discovered has three missing screws. Replaced with larger diameter wood screws, but the old screw holes in the baffle are too stripped for even these larger screws to properly seal -- there're just loosely in the old screw holes, really. The other original screws keep the woofer firmly in place, that's not a problem, but would the lack of other real screws and the looseness of the new ones prevent a proper seal for best sound?
 
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I used the Dayton Precision (1%) caps in both my pairs of A25's.. they did take a few hours to settle in then sounded very good. I had to drill out the screw holes on one woofer and glue in 1/2" dowel pieces then re-drill the screw holes. I used some silicone gasket maker to seal them as it is easy to remove if you must.
 

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shnaggle said:
I went with the least expensive option -- the MPT pair.

Got that done, but one of the speakers I discovered has three missing screws. Replaced with larger diameter wood screws, but the old screw holes in the baffle are too stripped for even these larger screws to properly seal -- there're just loosely in the old screw holes, really. The other original screws keep the woofer firmly in place, that's not a problem, but would the lack of other real screws and the looseness of the new ones prevent a proper seal for best sound?
Click to expand...

Get some toothpics, slather them with good quality wood glue, use enough so that you have to tap them in. Fill the hole with glue first, and while still wet, tap the toothpics in, leaving them long. Once the glue dries, cut them flush and drill new holes, and rejoice at a job well done!
This works on stripped out door jambs too.
 
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