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Dynavector 10x5 and Audiomods Classic Arm

Well, I received the box on Monday but opened it up on Tuesday. Excited is an understatement. When you wait a month on something anticipation builds like a roller coaster.



When I got to it the box was very beautiful.



It had my name on it with all the details. It also came with the "manual" and information. I abstained from pulling everything out and losing parts. I carefully read through everything (really just to build excitement) and then began to dig in.



Packaged were all the goodies. [Tone Arm with wiring, screws, counter weight, anti skate weight...etc.] I was so excited that I forgot that I had to take out my TP-16 and replace it. Now, granted I did a few extra things (damping in a few areas and removal of tp-16 cueing mechanism) to my thorens while it was under the knife, it took me several hours to fix the audiomods arm into my 160.

Here is the table ready to be worked on. Saran Wrap with rubber band around bearing well.



My sub-chassis did not allow for the rega arm so I had to relieve it on the side in order to get the audiomod to drop down into place. I do not own a hack saw and I do not own a dremel. I did not want to wait so what I did was use a pair of heavy duty pliers and began bending back the edge of the sub chassis. After an hour or so I finally got it back far enough to drop the arm in. I was very relieved to be done with the process. All-in-all it was not that bad and anyone with a few tools can do so.

Here is a photo of the Sound Support plate on my deck with part of the arm dropped in.



Next I attached the cartridge with the leads and lightly screwed it down.



I used the protractor that came with the arm. I am not quite sure what kind it is but I think it is a hybrid geared for the arm. I will try the baerwarld from vinylengine tonight or tomorrow to check the difference. Alignment wasn't all that bad but I can see how people can become frustrated. I would like to have a mirrored protractor and a fozgometer but those can come later. The HI Fi News Test Record really helped me set the antiskate. I haven't really messed with it too much but am sure it will be supremely beneficial for years to come.

By this time it was 3 A.M. and I put on Beck's "Sea Change".



wow. I was so happy.

The imaging increased by a couple of feet. I sit about 8ft from my speakers so an increase of a couple of feet in breadth was enormous. Sounds seemed to surround me. Single notes would appear behind my head and then disappear. The album features a strong mix of acoustic and electric so I was able to really understand the dynamic range of the arm and cart combo.



At 7.3 grams, the DV10x5 is too light for the fully weighted counterweight so right now I have the light aluminum shim on and removed a piece (or two?) from the counterweight. It is hard to see the three pieces of lead individually on the counterweight. What I might do is add more weight to the counterweight and increase the shim to the medium brass shim. Who knows though...I am sure I could calculate all of this but I don't mind experimenting. Here is a photo of the tail end minus some lead on the counterweight.



Finally here is a larger picture with everything in it. Note that I removed the cueing mechanism. I plan on covering it with either a circular level or a stainless steel hole plug.




First impressions with my setup...

I really like the look of the arm in person. I think the bead blasted finish works wonderfully with the 160's top plate and platter. The brass looks quite nice and I am glad that I chose to stick with it. I like the plastic arm lock because it actually locks the arm down where as the metal upgrade only holds it. The cueing mechanism of the tp-16 was a luxury. While cueing up and down with the audiomods isn't hard or dangerous it certainly isn't as easy as the tp-16...but it really doesn't bother me. If you are up in the air about it, go for the finger-lock VTA. It is very nice and helpful.

I can't really speak too much about the DV10x5 yet but I am sure that we will be best friends for years to come.


I will continue to write about the sound and try and answer any questions. Please feel free to ask. Also, anyone with suggestions please let me know. If you see anything that looks wrong or looks like it could be improved please let me know. I have never aligned a cartridge nor have I ever put in a rega style arm before.


-sam
 
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Wow Sam, thanks for the pictures and impressions. This is the arm I have my mind set on for a couple of things (only one at a time) so I'm glued to any information on it. It looks fantastic.
 
Sam, the TP-16 sits on a floating rectangle and it looks as if mounting the Sound Support plate meant simply plopping it on top of the existing rectangle and screwing it down in three places, yes? When you say the subchassis did not allow enough room for the Rega, did you have to create room lower down, or at the plane of the Thorens floating rectangle? Not sure my words are clear but I hop you get my questions. Thanks, Bruce
 
Sam, the TP-16 sits on a floating rectangle and it looks as if mounting the Sound Support plate meant simply plopping it on top of the existing rectangle and screwing it down in three places, yes? When you say the subchassis did not allow enough room for the Rega, did you have to create room lower down, or at the plane of the Thorens floating rectangle? Not sure my words are clear but I hop you get my questions. Thanks, Bruce

Bruce, the square plate is actually part of the TP-16. The arm is attached at two points to the TT. One is at the "square plate" with the three screws and the other is where the wiring is soldered to the rca interconnects inside the table (at least that is how my 160 was, but reading around I have learned that many 160s differ).

So when you remove the arm from the TT you remove that square plate leaving only a square hole through which you can see the sub-chassis and drop in the next arm.

I apologize for not taking pictures of the sub-chassis after I worked on it. I think I was embarrassed by its serious lack of professionalism.

So, to clarify, the square hole of the top plate is plenty wide. It is the sub-chassis hole underneath which is shaped like a triangular parallelogram (if that makes since?) and is too small. It is only too small on one side by a few cm.

I can dig up a post I read about it if you need.
 
Okay, following on with another question: did your three screws go through the new plate into some holes that were already there to receive the TP-16's base rectangle? Or did you have to make (and tap?) new holes? Looks as if similar geometry so I'm hoping (for my own future installation) that the screws go into existing holes?
 
I have an Audiomods arm that I built from the kit about a year ago. The upgrade in sound going from a Rega RB300 to the Audiomods was a revelation. Now I'm using an Audio Technica AT33EV LOMC with the Audiomods, and it's a combination I can live with indefinitely. I'm not sure what the compliance of the Dynavector is, but with the AT33EV, Jeff (at Audiomods) said it would be better to keep the counterweight lighter (I only have 1 lead shim in mine) and move it closer to the pivot point. I think the compliance of the AT33EV is around 15. If your compliance is much lower, you may need the headshell shim and therefore heavier counterweight. You should email Jeff and ask his opinion.

Congratulations on a great arm. Makes so much more of a difference than I ever imagined it could.
 
I have an Audiomods arm that I built from the kit about a year ago. The upgrade in sound going from a Rega RB300 to the Audiomods was a revelation. Now I'm using an Audio Technica AT33EV LOMC with the Audiomods, and it's a combination I can live with indefinitely. I'm not sure what the compliance of the Dynavector is, but with the AT33EV, Jeff (at Audiomods) said it would be better to keep the counterweight lighter (I only have 1 lead shim in mine) and move it closer to the pivot point. I think the compliance of the AT33EV is around 15. If your compliance is much lower, you may need the headshell shim and therefore heavier counterweight. You should email Jeff and ask his opinion.

Congratulations on a great arm. Makes so much more of a difference than I ever imagined it could.

Thank you for the advice. I haven't much messed around with the weights since I set it up. Everything is good now but I am sure not perfect.

I did email Jeff and he advised me to blu-tac different shims on top of the arm to figure out which one to use then screw it in.

I plan on starting from scratch again. Add the weight back to the counterweight and then try different shims and see how it goes.



Overall, I am still loving the sound. It has been fun listening to all my records and finding new details in them that had been overlooked by my previous setup. Can't wait to run the DV in a little more. I have ~5-10 hrs so far.
 
Nice... :thmbsp:

They make a drop-in armboard for a SL1200mk2 :scratch2:

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technics1-450.jpg
 
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I've got the armboard already. Just need the table!

Given that both of us enjoy Rega tables, I'd be interested in your thoughts on a 1200. A stock one just didn't do it for me when I revisited this deck last summer from my DJ days.
Would be interested in how much difference the AM arm makes - it made a huge difference with my rigs.
 
That tonearm looks awesome. Now I want one for my Thorens. Thanks for taking the time to take and post the pictures, btw.

I've had a 10X5 for nearly seven years. I haven't used it that entire time, and at one point I even had two considerably better cartridges, but coming back to it now I'm reminded of what a great cartridge it is. I'm aware of what the other cartridges offered that's missing with the 10X5, but that does not prohibit me from enjoying the heck out of it, and still being impressed with it as well after all this time. In fact, right now I'm listening to an old Klaus Schulze album through headphones with it! :music:

This cartridge introduced me to the more resolving sound of moving coil cartridges, which I think you're also experiencing now, presumably for the first time based on what you've written. I was sold on it pretty quickly. I see in your pictures that they put it in a nicer box now. :) Plus mine didn't have a stylus guard (it's the "nude" one in my avatar picture btw, if you're wondering what it looks like under the hood).

Can't wait to run the DV in a little more. I have ~5-10 hrs so far.

FYI this cartridge does undergo some audible break in, although it's been so long I can't recall how long it took. Expect the bass/mid-bass to fill out a little bit over time, the 10X5 even sounded a tad lean down there to me at first, but that changed. Nothing major, just a little development.

What phono preamp are you using? Pardon me if you already mentioned that here and I missed it.
 
Sorry for the thread necromancy, but I couldn't be more on-topic if I tried...

I've been running a Dynavector 10x5 on my Michell TecnoDec for a few months now with the Michell Special RB250. After finally realizing how badly I needed power conditioning, it started singing pretty nicely. But that didn't stop me from pulling the trigger on an Audiomods Classic, which just arrived today.

Have you found your sweet spot over the past year-plus? Any recommendations for shim and counterweight washer combos? Any other recommendations?

I'm sure that I'll tinker over time, but I'm itching to jump right in to spinning records as quickly as possible once I finally have time to set this thing up. :banana:
 
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