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Easy, basic testing of Darlington power pack (STK, Sanken, etc.).

ecluser

Super Member
The objective of this thread is to provide an easy way to test Darlington power output packs before installation in an amplifier. Full characterization like maximum power, THD, is not the object of this thread. It is rather a simple test with minimal tools to check if a power pack is operational or defective. I will take the STK-0029 to illustrate the procedure, but it is not limited to that particular model. The reader should refer to the datasheet of his particular power pack. Here is the equivalent circuit of the STK-0029

STK-0029.JPG

In most amplifiers, pin 10 will be connected to a current source of the order of 6 or 7 mA, pin 1 will be connected to the collector of a transistor that will provide all the voltage gain of the amplifier. Pin 9 will be connected to the positive power supply, pin 2 will be connected to the negative power supply. In some amplifiers there will be two emitter resistors connected in series between pin 8 and pin 3. The junction between those emitter resistors will be connected to the output of the amplifier. In some amplifiers pin 8 and pin 3 are simply connected together, without emitter resistors.

The first thing to check is possible short circuit between pins 9 and 8, between pins 3 and 2, between pins 9 and 10, and between pins 1 and 2. If emitter resistors are built into the power pack, like the STK-1050 and the Sanken ones, check those emitter resistors to see if they are open.

The testing procedure explained here involves only one low voltage DC power supply. It could be a battery for a portable power tool if you don't have a variable power supply. Unless the power pack is properly mounted on a large heat sink, it is preferable to keep the supply voltage low. Here is the complete circuit for testing the power pack

P1510140.JPG

As you can see two emitter resistors were connected between pins 8 and 3, because they are not implemented into the STK-0029. Two bias resistors were connected between the power supply and the input pins. Since those resistors have the same value, the output of the amplifier will set itself at 50% of the supply voltage, in the absence of a load at the output. Of course, if there is an appreciable current into a load at the output there will be a voltage drop in Re1 and the output voltage will be less than 50% of the supply voltage. The value of those resistors need to be computed according to the voltage of the power supply in order to have approximately 5mA of bias current in the input stage. Although the bias voltage source (sometimes called a bias spreader) is a variant of the Vbe multiplier, the voltage between the In+ and In- pins is not totally invariable in regard to variations of the bias current in that stage. It is particularly true for the Sanken power packs, in which the bias stage is made with diodes and a resistor. If Rb1 and Rb2 are too small, there will be too much bias current in the output transistors. Before connecting the load at the output, measure the voltage drop in the emitter resistors and compute the bias current in the output transistors. The complete set-up looks like this

P1510138.JPG

P1510139.JPG

Connexions to the STK pins were made with female Molex contact pins. It is convenient if you have more than one power pack to test. Here, the STK was affixed to an heat sink with a large paper clip.
 
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Update to post #1 for measuring the effective current gain of the "NPN" side and "PNP" side of the Darlington power output pack.

In post #1, the load was connected between the output and the negative side of the power supply. In that condition there is almost no current in the "PNP" side of the Darlington power pack. In order to test the "PNP" side of the power pack at high output current, the load must be connected between the output and the positive side of the power supply. By measuring the voltage drop in Rb1 and Rb2, with and without load at the output, it is possible to compute the effective current gain of both sides of the power pack. If Vcc does not change, with or without load at the output, the equations are simple.

The attached file makes a résumé of the set-up and the equations. The equations for Beta1 and Beta2 are based on the (observed) fact that the voltage at Vin- is almost unvariable when the output load is connected to the negative side of the power supply, or not connected. However, the voltage at Vin+ does vary because there is the base current of the NPN side in surplus to the bias current of the input circuit. Inversely, when the load is connected to the positive side of the power supply, Vin+ is almost unvariable and Vin- does varry by the base current of the PNP side. In the formulas for Beta1 and Beta2, Vin+ (unloaded) means the voltage at Vin+ when there is no load at the output, and Vin+(loaded) means the voltage at Vin+ when the load is connected at the output. Same thing for Beta2 except that it is Vin- that is measured.

Keep in mind that the output voltage will be close to Vcc/2 without load, but will be very different with a load because there will be a difference in the voltage drop of the emitter resistors and the total Vbe of the "active" and "inactive" sides will be different. In this simple circuit, there is no external feedback. I measured current gains of the order of 7000 in an STK-0029, with an output current of the order of 1A. If the output sets itself at Vcc/2 when there is no load at the output, and you can measure a current gain larger than 1000 on both sides of the Darlington power pack with an output current of the order of 1A, it is reasonable to assume that the power pack is good. However, if you find a current gain of say 5000 in one side and 100 in the other side, the side with the much lower gain has one defective transistor and the hole pack is useless. Measuring power packs at output current larger than 1A is possible if the pack is properly mounted on a large heat sink.
 

Attachments

Thank you! Very nice post. I'm repairing a Technics SA-202 with a pair of STK-0029's. Left channel good, but right channel distorted with lower half of the wave form missing. There was no large DC on the output so no short. It appeared that the right channel STK-0029 failed open. Your test enabled me to confirm this and also verify that the replacement one I bought (fake of course) works, before I put it in.
 
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