Effect of speaker cable on THD

Alan:

I would like to make a suggestion: Look to the distortion in your speakers. By that I mean, you are putting tremendous energy into very small differences in your amp, way below 1% distortion. While it is true that 1% distortion in an amp today is poor performance, I recently saw some dramatic results on my own system. I picked up one of these calibration mics and tested my system using Room Equalization Wizard. In addition to providing a room/speaker/system frequency plot (needs help pretty badly I think) it also gave me THD specs. Also pretty high. My system overall measured out at about 4.7%. Since I am using what I think is a low distortion amp (Mac MA6200) most of that is coming from the speakers.

I view my system as the sum of its various parts and it's what I hear that is important. At 4.7% distortion out of my speakers, that is clearly the component that is contributing the most to that result, although I have read that in comparison to amps and other components, speakers are notoriously high in distortion.

Perhaps you might want to just set yourself a target for your amp and speaker leads and then turn your attention and your time and effort to your speakers, taking a practical overall approach, rather then a perfectionist approach.

Just thought I'd share what I found in my own home for your consideration.

Thanks

Shelly_D
I have only one good pair of speaker, it's going to cost me at least $5K+ for a USED pair of speaker to top what I have. So for now, this is the only speaker in play as I am not ready to dole out that kind of money for a used speaker. The new ones are going to over $10K, so that's out of the question all together.

I have no experience how distortion relate to the sound. But I can tell for sure that the 12 X 20 gauge red/black twisted pair really open up the sound. I was actually surprised because from the disappointment of comparing amps, I really expect this whole thread is only academic discussion and it won't make a damn of a difference.....But it really did.

I am busy right now to make my amp robust enough to withstand the high capacitance of the cable. To me, the cable is ultra important.

Thanks

Alan
 
Agree about Spice, LT or other, though there seem to be people over at diyAudio that are pretty good at it. Truthfully, I'm such a dinosaur I never even considered it when I made the Bode suggestion. I'm Mister Physical Measurement, sworn enemy of Mr. Fancypants Math much of the time. Though I've never done it, I know there are techniques used for opamps to measure it open loop, or somehow derive it. Bob Pease probably had something to say about it, and I'll check my notes here.

On the speaker distortion issue, and this is purely my own unsubstantiated belief, speakers are a physical spring and mass system of fairly low frequencies, albeit somewhat complicated. They have a hard time making "unnatural" and unpleasant sounds. Amplifiers, OTOH, have no trouble at all generating harmonics you wouldn't find in a speaker. Amplifiers I've heard that keep THD below 0.01%, and don't have other flaws, sound about the same to me. Amplifiers above that start to please me less and less. I've heard the "you can't hear it below a few tenths of a percent at best" argument, but I remain a skeptic. The best speaker systems I've had were tri-amplified with active crossovers and were very low distortion.

I was banned by Diyaudio, I was too cocky before, I since learn my lesson.

Sure people are more technical oriented there, but I found a lot of them are quite close minded. I started a lot of discussion, I don't think I got fruitful result as this thread. I like to throw out ideas and think and talk, but over there, people seems to be fast in throwing out other people's quote and "trusted" circuit.

I actually spent a lot of time asking help in the LTSpice yahoo group. Those are the true serious LTSpice people. I did talked in Diyaudio about LTSpice before and found they are not as knowledgeable as I expected. I stop doing a lot of simulation lately because the result is totally inconsistent from the real circuit. One thing is I feel very confident on my layout because I layout all my boards in my whole career, I did circuit much much more critical than this, from multi GHz to nV, pA low level signals. I think I did everything I can on my layout with point to point 0.1uF and 10uF bypass cap for every single transistor, power and ground planes and very short connections on critical paths. I don't think my layout cause any problem, at least I trust my layout much more than the LTSpice.

I studied the Spice models, their models are way too simple, there is no lead inductance and parasitic in the model. In the output stage, you are dealing with a few ohms impedance, every little lead inductance can become important in a few MHz. All the fixes that are so effective in the real circuit do not do anything in the simulation. In fact, when I put 3300pF in my amp simulation, it didn't do squat!!! But it's the major killed in real circuit.

I think LTSpice just treat the output impedance of the output stage using r'e= 1/gm and just parallel all the stages together to give almost 0ohm output impedance, nothing you can put on the output can affect the stability. BUT in real life, lead inductance comes into play, output impedance gets funky when you are in a few MHz arena with transistors that are 30MHz or so.

I just change the Zobal from 50ohm to 22ohm and 0.022uF at the output terminal of the amp, it really improve the stability, I can relax the compensation and it's stable with 0.022uF right on the amp's output connector with NO 8ohm load. This is really good.

I even removed the 10ohm 0.1uF Zobal on the OPS board. I am sure if I put the 10ohm and 0.1uF Zobal on the amp's output connector, that should do it. And I am going to reverse the other Zobal and stuffs to see how far I can reverse back to the original circuit. My point is to find the sore spot of the circuit and I think I am getting close.

I like to really get into this experiment and design as this is my hobby. I found when I raise a question in DIYaudio, people are too quick to give an establish solution and say just use it. I don't find this work out all the time. This is the exact example where Zobal on the board didn't help at all, but a lighter Zobal on the output connector do magic. this is through talking and thinking which I don't get from DIYaudio before, people just offer what they consider an acceptable solution and tell you to follow it.

Another thing about compensation, all the schematic of people designed their amp in Diyaudio mainly stress on the miller cap of 33pF and some variation. I found it is critical to have a RC lead-lag network across the collector of the LTP to set the low limit of the capacitance at the LTP. Say if you use 33pF miller feedback capacitor, you get 33000pF when the open loop gain is 1000, BUT you only have about 60pF loading the LTP when open loop gain is down to unity as miller effect is gone. You need a lower limit of about 220pF to keep the stability.

This is the same for the VAS where the second part of the miller capacitance, it's only equal to 33pF, no more. You need a little more on that. You cannot increase the miller capacitor as it will increase too much on the LTP. So you need a lower limit on the VAS. I put a 330pF on it. These two really help. But I can see if I talk like this in DIYaudio, I'll get laugh at!!!! I am producing result on the bench, yes, I might have to re-invent the wheel, wasting a lot more time, but I think I learn. The last one week of playing with the stability taught me a lot.

I think you get very deep into the this too, you like to stop and think and research yourself to find the answer. That's why I like to talk to you as both of us tend to be "trust but verify" type!!! Believe in "seeing is believing" and spend the time to look at the theory behind it. That's what make it interesting and to learn.


EDIT:

Last week when I was struggling with the stability, it felt so hopeless and running out of ideas. I was tempted to use another name to join DIYaudio again, but I just kept telling myself to be patient, think it through, experiment with it and try to think out of the box. That's when I came up with the idea of loading the EF driver and pre-driver with Zobal. I am glad I stayed the course and find my own way. I know this is nothing new, but I like to discover this on my own.

Did I tell you that even though a have been an EE for 30 years, my degree is Chemistry, I almost never have formal education in EE. I studied a lot, hours a day for years on my own. I always find my own path, I might waste more time, but I think I can do it with power amp. This is why electronics is my single passion of life and learn and discovering is part of what make it interesting.
 
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Ha, by education I'm a photographer. One of the best programmers I've met was a geologist. Peoples degrees often don't have much to do with the careers they find themselves in. I've found many useful discussions at diyAudio, but warm welcomes aren't their strong point. I tend to take unusual paths with measurement methods and, not being a recognized authority on such things, often get shot down before people grasp what I'm doing. Probably a communication problem on my part because I expect people to think and do some work, rather then spoon feed them. I take those unusual paths because we've been doing the same old measurements for decades without illuminating much.

IMO, stability is a hugely complicated issue. Every stage has its contribution and pitfalls. My old Tiger amps are famous for stability problems and I found that none of the important things are contained in the schematics. Success came from fine tuning the networks and the physical connection points. ?Sure, the audio signal has a narrow bandwidth, but stability issues can go way into the RF. That's why putting your networks at one end of the cable or the other makes a difference. Lumped constants don't work at the frequencies involved with stability. BTW, one issue I have with Spice is capacitors. You have to jump through hoops to get the losses right over any frequency range, and nobody does. Esr or dissipation factor are not constant with frequency, so just sticking some resistance in there doesn't do the job. I'd like to see the Spice model for your green resistor!

Elliott Sound has some nice writeups (http://sound.whsites.net/index2.html). I like Sziklai pairs but somewhere Elliott says he usually has to slow one down to avoid oscillation. There's actually a lot of good info on this page- http://sound.whsites.net/amp_design.htm#slewrate2, much of it in the final portion.
 
You are wasting you time Alan. shelly_d is right btw, but even this would not be enough
I don't think so, Like I said, I can definitely hear the improvement with the new cable. This is really not my expectation.
Ha, by education I'm a photographer. One of the best programmers I've met was a geologist. Peoples degrees often don't have much to do with the careers they find themselves in. I've found many useful discussions at diyAudio, but warm welcomes aren't their strong point. I tend to take unusual paths with measurement methods and, not being a recognized authority on such things, often get shot down before people grasp what I'm doing. Probably a communication problem on my part because I expect people to think and do some work, rather then spoon feed them. I take those unusual paths because we've been doing the same old measurements for decades without illuminating much.

IMO, stability is a hugely complicated issue. Every stage has its contribution and pitfalls. My old Tiger amps are famous for stability problems and I found that none of the important things are contained in the schematics. Success came from fine tuning the networks and the physical connection points. ?Sure, the audio signal has a narrow bandwidth, but stability issues can go way into the RF. That's why putting your networks at one end of the cable or the other makes a difference. Lumped constants don't work at the frequencies involved with stability. BTW, one issue I have with Spice is capacitors. You have to jump through hoops to get the losses right over any frequency range, and nobody does. Esr or dissipation factor are not constant with frequency, so just sticking some resistance in there doesn't do the job. I'd like to see the Spice model for your green resistor!

Elliott Sound has some nice writeups (http://sound.whsites.net/index2.html). I like Sziklai pairs but somewhere Elliott says he usually has to slow one down to avoid oscillation. There's actually a lot of good info on this page- http://sound.whsites.net/amp_design.htm#slewrate2, much of it in the final portion.

I just put the 10ohm and 0.022uF Zobal on the output connector of the amp, FIXES EVERYTHING. I removed all the Zobal networks on the drivers and pre-drivers, put back the original 2.2 ohm base stop resistors and the waveform looks as good as ever with the 3300pF, just a slight hair with 0.022uF. That Zobal at the connector fixes everything, not on the pcb even though it's the same on paper.

I think the Zobal has to be on where the current to the load has to be, the return current does not go through the OPS board by design ( rightfully so), Zobal from output to the OPS board ground doesn't do it at all. I can relax the compensation and the waveform looks as good as ever.

One week!!!!
 
Cool!

Drifting back to the green resistor, a suggestion was made over at diy to saturate it with a magnet. If the problem is magnetic in nature, that should reduce the THD. Sure enough, a big horseshoe up against the side dropped the THD to 1/3 it's previous value. So, don't use double layer resistors made with magnetic tape style resistance alloys.
 
I know you can get to the bottom, that's why it's fun to talk to you about this. I hope you have a chance in the future to look more into the cable. Right now, I am working to optimize the lower the capacitance and inductance using slightly bigger wires in parallel to get low enough inductance to lower THD, BUT keep the capacitance as low as possible.

I hope I can finish my amp with the new found knowledge of the Zobal and do more on the cable......and the next amp.
 
Ha, by education I'm a photographer. One of the best programmers I've met was a geologist. Peoples degrees often don't have much to do with the careers they find themselves in. I've found many useful discussions at diyAudio, but warm welcomes aren't their strong point....................................

I took on photography as a hobby in the 90s, I did wedding and product photography for a few years. I did wedding and studio gig on the weekend and I did product photography for the company that I worked for. Here are some of my work.

I lost interest and quit all together, but I still have all the equipment. I have all the studio flashes, full set of Hasselbrad, background and all. I was pre-digital days, everything on film, no touch up, no Photoshop, all the pictures are done with lighting in one shot.
 

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Nice! I've always liked medium and large format, but the price of a digital back for those is crazy high. Someday if I retire I'd like to do a bit of film again. Still have the darkroom set up and ready.

Being a bit single-minded, I keep thinking about the resistor. Many people believe magnetic leads and such are bad, but I don't buy it. Only if the leads or caps become the core, accidentally or intentionally, of an inductor, will they cause problems. I'm not even sure about non-magnetic metals. Are you familiar with the tuning wand used by old radio service people? It was a wand with a ferrous end and a brass end. You could put it in or near a coil and determine which way to adjust the coil. The ferrous end would increase the inductance and the brass end would reduce it. IMO, one reason wire wound multi-turn pots are way better than you'd think is they wind the wire on a piece of heavy copper wire. That, plus the small winding diameter, kills the inductance.
 
I think theoretically in a the output inductor, you can put the parallel resistor inside the coil if it is not magnetic, people in DIYaudio even suggested that. BUT I would not do that. Inductors are very sensitive to stuffs around it. Maybe you can try sticking the stick through the resistor and see what happens. I am not familiar with the stick at all.

I have no intention buying the digital back, I am using a Nikon D7000 now a days ( hardly). I can still use all the lens from the pass, just magnification changes due to the format. I was more a gadget man more than anything, using excuse to spend money. To be honest, I never even think much of the medium format, when I was a photographer, it is more like a show that I got professional equipment. I never use the Hasselbrad for wedding. Even in product photography, I don't even think it's that important. The only thing that is an advantage is you can put a Polaroid back to take test picture with the Hasselbrad, the Polaroid is to small for the 35mm cameras. But it's irrelevant now as you do digital pictures and you can see it right away. With 14M pixel, you don't need medium format, hell, you don't even need large format if you can find the tilt shift lens.

As for resolution, I never think it's that important, I remember when I was doing table top for the company, I took the set of pictures already, before I tore the set up down, I just have fun taking a very high magnification image of a stack of hard disk, I used up all the lens extension and still couldn't get the magnification, I put a closed up lens ( just a magnifying glass) in front of the Hasselbrad to get the extra magnification and took the picture. It's not even that clear, they loved it, they blew it up to over 6' tall and use it in their convention booth!!!
 
We're talking about numbers but IMO it's always a good idea to at least keep sound in the back of your mind somewhere, otherwise it's hard to weigh one thing against another. Speaking of tedious, I pulled the cable to my left Heresy out of the back of the amp, clamped on and made some measurements. Here's what the 3-way system with crossover and cables looks like:

View attachment 913209

It gets a little tight at the left, so here's the same data with the scale changed:

View attachment 913211

It surprised me how low the real part gets around 600-800 Hz. Naturally you can convert to the equivalent capacitance or inductance value at any frequency.

edit- really cool about the 20 AWG wire! Now I want to understand why.

Enjoy,
CH

I am thinking about the speaker impedance at frequency of oscillation. Do you have any idea of the impedance of the 3 way above 100KHz? could it be over 200ohm at above 100KHz as the frequency way pass the response of the speaker and should be mostly inductive at 100KHz and up.
 
In post #245 I only took the Heresy up to 25 kHz, but it looks like the line would go straight up or maybe curve around to make another loop. It will be a while before I can hook up that test setup again, but I'll try to do it at some point.
 
In post #245 I only took the Heresy up to 25 kHz, but it looks like the line would go straight up or maybe curve around to make another loop. It will be a while before I can hook up that test setup again, but I'll try to do it at some point.
Thanks
 
In post #245 I only took the Heresy up to 25 kHz, but it looks like the line would go straight up or maybe curve around to make another loop. It will be a while before I can hook up that test setup again, but I'll try to do it at some point.
Hey Conrad

You think I can just use a signal generator that has 50ohm output impedance to drive directly into the speaker. Use a scope to monitor that amplitude. The amplitude is always the output voltage

Vo=Vs X [Zspeaker/( 50+Zspeaker)] where Vo is the voltage at the speaker terminal, Vs is voltage at the internal output of the generator that you measure with no load resistance. 50 is the source resistance of the generator and Zspeaker is the speaker impedance.

I really only need the magnitude of the impedance.


The reason why I asked is it's very difficult to tame the amp with only capacitance at the output with no resistance load. It is so easy to tame the amp with different value capacitance up to 1uF if you have a load resistor or 4 or 8ohm. It's only if you remove the resistor that things get difficult.

Without any resistor load, I have to have a 5ohm and 0.1uF Zobal to make it work well. I am doing the worst case where I assume the speaker impedance goes to infinity after 100KHz. It would really make a difference if the speaker still present something like a 30ohm load at high frequency.

I am worry the Zobal impedance is getting too low. Not only I have to have 5ohm and 0.1uF at the output connector, I still need a 100ohm 0.03uF on the pcb at the output before the SS relay. Without that, the amp oscillate before the SS relay closes and the output see the Zobal network. Bottom line, the output wants to see low impedance at all time.

I think because I have 9 output pairs, it needs Zobal lower than 10 ohm like in normal amps.

I want to emphasize that to test stability, you have to have multiple capacitor load test. I use 3300pF, 0.022uF and 0.22uF and test individually. You cannot assume if the amp is stable with 0.22uF, then it's ok for smaller caps. This is not even close to the truth. You really have to ensure the amp is stable with all three caps INDIVIDUALLY. I might have to add more caps to test. I tested it with no resistor load. This together make it very hard.
 
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You can probably get away with it if the sig gen doesn't mind shorts and low impedances. I'd probably put 50 ohms in series just for safety. I've tested T&S parameters for drivers that way with no trouble.

I don't see any problem with a 5 ohm / 0.1 uF Zobel, so long as the resistor rating is sufficient, at least in the real world. Your full power 20 kHz tests might present some issues!

You need a giant air variable cap for testing so you can glide through every value! Biggest I've got is probably 1500 pF, so you might need really big plates and lots of 'em. Ditto for an inductor. GR made a variable inductor that just a square version of the old variometer. For a neat one, Google "basketball variometer".

I've got new stuff on the bench for a while, so switching gears away from cables and resistors.
 
I put capacitor onto banana plug and plug them in as needed:

Capacitor plugs.JPG

Zobal and capacitor.JPG This picture what I was describing about connecting the capacitor at the output of the amp instead of putting at the load end with a cable in between. The inductance of the cable isolates the capacitance from the amp and it's a lot easier to make the amp stable.

Also you see I put the 5ohm 0.1u Zobel on the output connector of the amp.

I cannot use the variable cap you suggested, because you have to have a cable in between the amp and the variable cap, that will not representative of the high capacitance cable that I worked out in this thread. The 3000pF of the cable is right at the output of the amp. That's what make it so hard for all amps and a lot of them are not stable with the high capacitance cables. My Nakamichi........even designed by Nelson Pass did not pass the test either. The Nakamichi gives a strange hum on the left channel when first turn on. I have to keep turning it off and on to have one time it is quiet before I can leave it on to use it.

Notice I don't use resistor load, the big cable is going to the step attenuator that is like 600ohm. It is so much easier with a 4 or 8 ohm load, but I suspect the speaker is very high impedance beyond 100KHz and that's where the problem starts for stability. Using a 8ohm or 4ohm load is literally cheating. I think that's why manufacturers go crazy telling people to use 0.5uF or higher to test the amp. Marantz manual specified using 0.5uF in parallel with 8ohm. Doing it this way is just making themselves feel better, that does not test anything in stability of the amp. Also, using a big cap actually is easier to make it stable, believe it or not, the 3300pF gives me the worst problem.

You go through this, it's hard. I spent over a week on this already.

If you are curious, try this on your amp and see how they fare. Using separate capacitor, plug right on the output connector on the amp, not resistor load, you'll see what I mean.

See, I am like you, I cannot let things go, I want to get to the bottom.....at least have a reasonable solution that make sense.

That's the reason I resist in using another name to join DIYaudio, I like to do this, most people there just refers me to so and so circuit. Before long, I'll get into hot debate and get banned again!!!! I want to take my time and dig deep. Find my solution.
 
Finally I finished testing the OPS module with very good low distortion result and stabilize for relative high capacitance load. I finally get back to the cable. I built a 5pairs of 16 gauge cable, 15ft long cable. I first test without twisting and then twisted it. I am surprised the THD at 20KHz 40Vpp ( consistent with before) is both 0.065%, same as the 12 X 22gauge that is 13ft long. There is no improvement whether it's twisted or not.

BUT the capacitance is 1700pF untwisted vs 2700pF twisted. I am confused, the capacitance increased that shows better and tighter coupling, which implies lower inductance. BUT there is no improvement of THD at all what so ever.

Hey Conrad, this is something for you to think about, I have no explanation on this. Looks like I am going to untwist the cable and use it. It is as good as the shorter 12 X 22 gauge and 12" longer. So it is a slight improvement. Also the capacitance is lower than the 12 X 22gauge ( 1700pF vs 2200pF). The PA-7 Stasis amp is not happy with that kind of capacitance!!!
 
I finally have a chance to remove the tape of the 5 X 16gauge and pulled it straight without twisting and tape it back so it does not flop all over the place. The capacitance is 2400pF even without twisting but just tie together. BUT the THD is actually lowered by 0.01%, which is surprising as it's not twisted. I think the result is encouraging. I am going to use this one as the final speaker cable for testing the amp.

I think I am coming to the end of this experiment, use 16 gauge and a few pairs is good enough. From the lesson, I even wired the speaker connection inside my amp using 8 pairs 16gauge wires as shown. I am getting very good THD result with my amp:

Multiple 16gauge speaker wires.jpg

You can see I use 8 red and 8 black 16 gauge wires to connect to the speaker banana connector inside the amp. Notice I have 3 pairs of banana connectors so I can plug in multiple speaker cables for each speaker.
 
I'm Mister Physical Measurement, sworn enemy of Mr. Fancypants Math much of the time.
LOL.. with respect. You can't argue with Conrads logic'.. test equipment and all.

Alan just looking at your amplifier just above.. that would probably produce enough effect on any thd measurements. Just too many components all producing 'some distortion'. To measure 0.001% thd you would need accuracy to 0.0000x given to component % of accuracy? I'm just hitting withing human hearing ranges.. I did post about a contact in Australia who built a thd tester so sensitive his dmm was producing a mhz at the chip inside.. still on. His shop was a cement block bunker.

I love the chase, too. :D
 
LOL.. with respect. You can't argue with Conrads logic'.. test equipment and all.

Alan just looking at your amplifier just above.. that would probably produce enough effect on any thd measurements. Just too many components all producing 'some distortion'. To measure 0.001% thd you would need accuracy to 0.0000x given to component % of accuracy? I'm just hitting withing human hearing ranges.. I did post about a contact in Australia who built a thd tester so sensitive his dmm was producing a mhz at the chip inside.. still on. His shop was a cement block bunker.

I love the chase, too. :D

You must have read the "My Amplifier" thread. It is getting to be voodoo. It's like you move the power supply wires, the input coax etc. Everything seems to move the THD reading. Also, I think I am pushing the limit of the QA401. Really, you look at it wrong, the THD goes up!!!!:rflmao:
 
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