DaveStra
New Member
I am going to replace the capacitor. I would like to just clip the wire on the current cap and solder the new one to that to keep things simple. My question is, do I need to remove the glob of glue in order to change out the binding posts? If I need to do that then I will carefully remove the glue and attach the new cap where it is connected under the glue. I'm not sure about how to connect new binding posts. I know that I will figure it out after I remove the old binding posts but any advice is truly appreciated.
I don't know what sort of tools you have access too, but I knocked the nasty spring terminals off and installed some nice 5 way binders on an oak strip in their place. The OEMs were too close for the 5 ways to fit so I needed a cover plate, so I used the strip. Or you could just remove the entire masonite plate and replace it too after installing posts of your choice.
bigcaddy64
Super Member
The old glue can be cut with an Xacto knife and just peeled away. A heat gun will soften it but usually i comes off fairly quickly. Binding posts are just long, threaded bolts that install in seconds.
I think the cap on those speakers is an 8uf/50v and would run you a few bucks for a set at Parts Express. If i had a pair in my stock i'd send them your way so you could complete the project.
Those are great sounding speakers once complete!
DaveStra
New Member
I am going to apply the glue (JB Weld) to the magnets of the woofers and tweeters later today. I am learning about speaker restoration by watching you tube videos and by reviewing previous posts here concerning the subject. But by far the most useful is the direct feedback I am getting from you experts here on this forum. Before I glue the tweeters, I wanted to check on something. I asked previously about cleaning and refilling the ferro fluid in the tweeters. In the past, has anyone found this necessary with these EPI tweeters? I would hate to glue them and have to open them up later to work on them. This is my first time with this, so I don't want to overdo it. At the same time, I don't want to neglect anything that I will regret later. I thank you all for your input!
DaveStra
New Member
I'm answering my own question! I've done some more research and I am not going to worry about the ferrofluid in my tweeters. If I get them glued and installed and it turns out that they don't sound right, then I will deal with it.
DaveStra
New Member
Hello. I have another question. How do I remove the binding posts from the back of the speakers? I’ve cleaned up the glob of glue on the inside. What is the best way to remove the binding posts without causing damage to the pressed wood plate that they are attached to?
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colohiker
Well-Known Member
I just did this on a pair of Genesis II's. If your drill & bit can reach from the front side, just use a drill bit in the center of each rivet to take off the mushroomed head. You can actually use a bit that is just slightly smaller than the mushroomed end (I used a 9/64"), the bit just needs to be as big as the shaft of the rivet. Unfortunately, my drill & bit couldn't go from the front side of the deeper cabinet of the Genesis II's so I had to do it from the backside. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting disc to make a shallow grove in the center of the rivet head to help center the drill bit. Just be sure to vacuum and/or use magnet to clean all of the metal shavings from inside the cabinet.
Penn42
Well-Known Member
I just rebuilt the crossovers on my Genesis 1 (EPI 100's cousin) project the other day. The rivets are best drilled out from the back. My crossover plates were only glued on and the old glue let loose quite easily with a little pressure. I'll and silicon then back in place.
I didn't know this when I removed then, but it will be nice being able to position the plate a little differently as to allow better access to the new larger terminals. EPI and Genesis did not cut any larger hole in the cabinet than absolutely necessary and these 5-way binding posts nearly touch the edge of the hole if the plate is positioned in its old spot.
I cut new black backing plate from some 3/32 abs I had laying around from other audio projects. You can get a chunk on Amazon for ~$8.
Not to hijack your thread: is it best to add new epoxy on the Genesis drivers as well?
I didn't know this when I removed then, but it will be nice being able to position the plate a little differently as to allow better access to the new larger terminals. EPI and Genesis did not cut any larger hole in the cabinet than absolutely necessary and these 5-way binding posts nearly touch the edge of the hole if the plate is positioned in its old spot.
I cut new black backing plate from some 3/32 abs I had laying around from other audio projects. You can get a chunk on Amazon for ~$8.
Not to hijack your thread: is it best to add new epoxy on the Genesis drivers as well?