If a tube goes down, does the MC2301 tell you what tube it is?. How are you finding the MC2301's vs your old MC2102's are a few mnths now. my old cj tube amps would indicate the naughty tube with a red light next to the tube. the MC2102's do not have this, so i would have no idea if a tube went down.
The MC2301's have no indicators specifying which tube is bad. On the MC2301
you can remove one side of tubes (4 each KT88's and the 12AT7) and turn the amp on -- if no issues, turn it off & reinsert those tubes and then remove the other set on the other side; turn on & my case, bingo --the amp shut off.
That at least narrowed it to 4 KT88's or the 12AT7. If you don't have a tube tester, you can then remove one tube at a time, repeating the remove/insert new/turn on sequence until you isolate the problem.
That feature is neat -- at least helps isolate a problem to one side of the amp or the other.
I do not know if you can do that with a MC275 or other McIntosh tube amps as with my MC275's I never had an issue with tubes. An owner of those amps would need to confirm with McIntosh if you can do a similiar troubleshooting regime as with the MC2301 -- I would not suggest doing so, until confirmed with McIntosh.
NEVER remove tubes while lit.

Briefly, the difference between the MC2301's and dual MC275's is:
--units are unbelievably quiet in-between passages
--a lot of air in the midrange – unrestricted, delicate
--soundstage has opened up more so than with the MC275’s
--Exceptional detail & outstanding attack when an instrument is struck or plucked
--Detailed Micro dynamics, musical and very linear even at low volumes