Russellc
Addicted Member
Looks the same as mine! Right down to the red Zilch plugs and Harbor freight roller rack! Cool! Have you tried it with all 4 ports open? With 2225H I found I preferred it that way, YMMV.
Russellc
Ewave + 2226 Build Thread
- Thread starter tsloms
- Start date
Looks the same as mine! Right down to the red Zilch plugs and Harbor freight roller rack! Cool! Have you tried it with all 4 ports open? With 2225H I found I preferred it that way, YMMV.
Russellc
tubino
A guy with too many tubes
What a great thread about box building -- when going beyond the box. I really appreciate the step-by-step.
With the 2226 and the time and results from your building, I'd suggest going a little further in Wayne Parham's direction. And dshoaf's, with larger horn and driver. Here's my latest twist on the Four Pi with 2226, using the 2" 2441:
If you look closely you can see that I'm literally standing the Ewave on its head.
I just hooked this up tonight, using crossovers that are basically the Four Pi design but with a 100w L-pad. Still got some phase issues with driver placement, but sounding very promising.
With the 2226 and the time and results from your building, I'd suggest going a little further in Wayne Parham's direction. And dshoaf's, with larger horn and driver. Here's my latest twist on the Four Pi with 2226, using the 2" 2441:
If you look closely you can see that I'm literally standing the Ewave on its head.
I just hooked this up tonight, using crossovers that are basically the Four Pi design but with a 100w L-pad. Still got some phase issues with driver placement, but sounding very promising.More progress was made today. The enclosures are assembled with the exception of the sides which I purchased today.
Here are the drivers and horn that will be used in these enclosures.
I cut pieces to use to double the baffle thickness behind the woofer. These I used biscuits to attach the baffle to both of the internal braces. Then these assemblies were glued and temporarily screwed to the enclosures.
Here you can see where the baffles are screwed to the front baffle. Keep in mind that the screw locations will be cut out when the woofer cutout is made.
I then used biscuits again to join each of the braces and the tops and bottoms of the enclosures to the back. I ended up using nearly all of my clamps in order to hold all of these pieces securely together. You can never have too many clamps!!
Here is the end result for the day. Both enclosures are ready for the sides to be attached. With any luck I should be able to get all of the sides on.
I began as well to prebend the 1/4" Birch plywood. Hopefully this will relieve some of the stress in the wood for tomorrow. I wish I had access to a steamer to add moisture to the backside to allow the wood to bend easier.
What do you guys recommend to line the internal walls with? Previously I have used egg crate foam for ported enclosures and polyfill for sealed ones. Is there something better to use at a reasonable cost?
Here are the drivers and horn that will be used in these enclosures.
I cut pieces to use to double the baffle thickness behind the woofer. These I used biscuits to attach the baffle to both of the internal braces. Then these assemblies were glued and temporarily screwed to the enclosures.
Here you can see where the baffles are screwed to the front baffle. Keep in mind that the screw locations will be cut out when the woofer cutout is made.
I then used biscuits again to join each of the braces and the tops and bottoms of the enclosures to the back. I ended up using nearly all of my clamps in order to hold all of these pieces securely together. You can never have too many clamps!!
Here is the end result for the day. Both enclosures are ready for the sides to be attached. With any luck I should be able to get all of the sides on.
I began as well to prebend the 1/4" Birch plywood. Hopefully this will relieve some of the stress in the wood for tomorrow. I wish I had access to a steamer to add moisture to the backside to allow the wood to bend easier.
What do you guys recommend to line the internal walls with? Previously I have used egg crate foam for ported enclosures and polyfill for sealed ones. Is there something better to use at a reasonable cost?
Has anyone ever done a slot port in an Ewave? I was thinking of possibly adding in a slot port in the lower part of the back of the enclosure instead of the typical round ports in front. If nothing else I would like to at least put the round ports in back instead of the front. How do you guys feel about slot ports?
Russellc
Addicted Member
Today I concentrated on cleaning up the enclosures somewhat and flush mounting the drivers. I kinda figured that the horn would be a PITA to flush mount.
The first task of the day was to clean up the edges of the enclosures. Using a flush trim router bit I cleaned up the ends of the cabinets and sanded the sides of the braces to prepare for attaching the sides. Looking much better.
Next I worked on flush mounting both the driver and the horn.
First the easy one, the woofer. I attached a board underneath the woofer cutout to hold the cutout in place once it is fully cut out.
Here is the woofer flush mounted. Note that it will sit ever so slightly higher once the gasket material is placed behind it.
The horn was much, much more indepth. I thought about how to make a template to cut out the horn pattern consistently and accurately.
This is what I came up with.
This template is used with a Jasper 100 circle jig to cut the outside of the horn recess for the JBL 338800. This Jasper jig was used as a "standard" just in case I want to use these horns in the future I will be able to flush mount them with any router just by using the Jasper jig.
It took several hours of sanding and "fine tuning" to get it to fit the horn just right.
Here is the final result.
What I wouldn't give for a CNC router table. That would have made life so much easier. Making up and cutting the horn recess ended up taking about 6-7 hours to get them just right by hand. But......the beauty is in the details. I will be better off taking my time and doing it right instead of rushing it and messing something up.
Maybe this weekend I will be able to get some sides on the cabinets. I think that I will use the fiberglass to line the walls since I already have plenty stored away in my garage and I will try to find some plastic washers or perhaps use staples to secure it to the walls.
Before the sides go on I would like to finalize the port design. Using WinISD to model the response at 400 watts input power in this 4.6 cubic foot enclosure the air velocity stays under 50 ft/sec with either a 5"X8" slot port 10.93" in length or 3 4" ID round ports 12.31" long for a 38Hz tune. I don't plan on using this much power with these speakers but I would like to be prepared just in case I do from time to time. Either way I would like to put the port(s) in the back to keep the front clean. What would you guys recommend to port them with?
The first task of the day was to clean up the edges of the enclosures. Using a flush trim router bit I cleaned up the ends of the cabinets and sanded the sides of the braces to prepare for attaching the sides. Looking much better.
Next I worked on flush mounting both the driver and the horn.
First the easy one, the woofer. I attached a board underneath the woofer cutout to hold the cutout in place once it is fully cut out.
Here is the woofer flush mounted. Note that it will sit ever so slightly higher once the gasket material is placed behind it.
The horn was much, much more indepth. I thought about how to make a template to cut out the horn pattern consistently and accurately.
This is what I came up with.
This template is used with a Jasper 100 circle jig to cut the outside of the horn recess for the JBL 338800. This Jasper jig was used as a "standard" just in case I want to use these horns in the future I will be able to flush mount them with any router just by using the Jasper jig.
It took several hours of sanding and "fine tuning" to get it to fit the horn just right.
Here is the final result.
What I wouldn't give for a CNC router table. That would have made life so much easier. Making up and cutting the horn recess ended up taking about 6-7 hours to get them just right by hand. But......the beauty is in the details. I will be better off taking my time and doing it right instead of rushing it and messing something up.
Maybe this weekend I will be able to get some sides on the cabinets. I think that I will use the fiberglass to line the walls since I already have plenty stored away in my garage and I will try to find some plastic washers or perhaps use staples to secure it to the walls.
Before the sides go on I would like to finalize the port design. Using WinISD to model the response at 400 watts input power in this 4.6 cubic foot enclosure the air velocity stays under 50 ft/sec with either a 5"X8" slot port 10.93" in length or 3 4" ID round ports 12.31" long for a 38Hz tune. I don't plan on using this much power with these speakers but I would like to be prepared just in case I do from time to time. Either way I would like to put the port(s) in the back to keep the front clean. What would you guys recommend to port them with?
I would port them in front with a horizontal row of three 4" ducts of ABS or PVC DWV pipe. Flare the baffle openings with a roundover bit. If you use double-thickness baffle there, you can have a relatively large radius, and the cutouts (counterbored from the inside) will be easy.... :yes:
MIKEINEUGENE
Active Member
Very nice work tsloms.When making a cut out that requires a following recess you can many times use a flush trim for the initial hole size by temporarily tacking pieces on from the backside as a guide.With the initial hole size laid out you first cut it to within about 1/8" using a jigsaw.Once you have the hole properly sized so the horn fits you can then use a rabbet bit that will give you enough off set in the opening and you will end up with a very accurate and consistent recessed area.I am not knocking your work at all as it looks like you have fit your drivers very well i am just offering a suggestion as to maybe a faster way to achieve the same result.I am looking forward to seeing the finished result.
Mike, the straight pieces were easy to cut but getting the corners right was a different matter entirely. I used the method you described to make all of the braces and cut the windows out of them using a flush trim router bit.
I don't currently have any rabbet bits on hand. Maybe I will need to pick some up for my next project. I am always open to try new, easier methods. Maybe I could use the horn itself as a template using a flush trim bit which will make a slightly oversized pattern (1/4" larger on all sides) and then offset with a larger bearing on a flush trim bit from that to make a perfect sized cutout.
I don't currently have any rabbet bits on hand. Maybe I will need to pick some up for my next project. I am always open to try new, easier methods. Maybe I could use the horn itself as a template using a flush trim bit which will make a slightly oversized pattern (1/4" larger on all sides) and then offset with a larger bearing on a flush trim bit from that to make a perfect sized cutout.
MIKEINEUGENE
Active Member
Yes you could do as you say with the horn as a template.Very good idea.It sounds like you already know the benefits of multiple bearing sizes and rabbet bits.Again, great work.
Progress has been a bit slow going as I have gotten a bit busier at home. All of these small details have also taken up quite a bit of time. Anyways we have pushed ahead anyways.
I decided on a 4.5" tall by 9.5" port. This has been constructed again out of Birch ply. All of the edges have been rounded to smooth airflow and improve the aesthetics.
The rear of the enclosures have been rough cut open to get close to the size of the port.
The ports were then glued into the enclosures using Titebond 2.
The rear ports were then flush trimmed to the size of the ports.
The edges of the port were then rounded over and sanded smooth.
I then began to attach the 1/4" Birch ply to the sides of the enclosures.
This was accomplished by constructing jigs to spread out the clamping load. The jig was also made with curved cross braces to match the internal braces. These were built as a mirrored pair. This ensures that when the sides are attached the jig will apply adequate pressure where required.
This was after the first of 3 layers of 1/4" ply was glued on.
In order to attach the 2nd layer of ply I used Titebond 3 in order to ensure plenty of strength and a bit longer assembly time.
Here I am applying the first of 2 layers of Titebond to the ply.
This glue was evenly spread with a roller.
This is after 2 layers of ply. Next up is the 3rd layer and then finishing work on the cabs.
I am currently out of town for work. Hopefully I will be getting back this Sunday and will be able to finish up the speakers by the end of this week or maybe next weekend.
I decided on a 4.5" tall by 9.5" port. This has been constructed again out of Birch ply. All of the edges have been rounded to smooth airflow and improve the aesthetics.
The rear of the enclosures have been rough cut open to get close to the size of the port.
The ports were then glued into the enclosures using Titebond 2.
The rear ports were then flush trimmed to the size of the ports.
The edges of the port were then rounded over and sanded smooth.
I then began to attach the 1/4" Birch ply to the sides of the enclosures.
This was accomplished by constructing jigs to spread out the clamping load. The jig was also made with curved cross braces to match the internal braces. These were built as a mirrored pair. This ensures that when the sides are attached the jig will apply adequate pressure where required.
This was after the first of 3 layers of 1/4" ply was glued on.
In order to attach the 2nd layer of ply I used Titebond 3 in order to ensure plenty of strength and a bit longer assembly time.
Here I am applying the first of 2 layers of Titebond to the ply.
This glue was evenly spread with a roller.
This is after 2 layers of ply. Next up is the 3rd layer and then finishing work on the cabs.
I am currently out of town for work. Hopefully I will be getting back this Sunday and will be able to finish up the speakers by the end of this week or maybe next weekend.
marantzfan
...
WOW..Those are really taking shape. You're obviously a much better woodworker than about 99.9% of us here...
Can't wait to see the finished product, those already look phenomenal...:thmbsp:
Can't wait to see the finished product, those already look phenomenal...:thmbsp:
I finally finished up these speakers this past weekend. After some experimenting with different stains and shellac I decided to go with a Cherry stain and poly after first conditioning the wood.
Here they are after the stain and 4 coats of poly. In this pic you can get an idea of how the grain shimmers from different angles. It's pretty neat.
After this the crossovers were installed onto the brace just below the woofer.
Then the fiberglass insulation was installed and lined all of the internal walls.
The JBL 2226 woofers are now installed along with the Ewave JBL horns and Selenium D220Ti CD's.
Here they are with the grill removed from 2 of my 4 IXL18.4's built into my theater front wall.
I have not had much of a chance to give them a good test session and measurements yet. So far they can be played very loud and very clean. The drivers also need to be broken in yet.
Here they are after the stain and 4 coats of poly. In this pic you can get an idea of how the grain shimmers from different angles. It's pretty neat.
After this the crossovers were installed onto the brace just below the woofer.
Then the fiberglass insulation was installed and lined all of the internal walls.
The JBL 2226 woofers are now installed along with the Ewave JBL horns and Selenium D220Ti CD's.
Here they are with the grill removed from 2 of my 4 IXL18.4's built into my theater front wall.
I have not had much of a chance to give them a good test session and measurements yet. So far they can be played very loud and very clean. The drivers also need to be broken in yet.