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Faceplate Touch Up Paint?

Westy56

Westy56

A symphony of paradox
Is there a consensus on which spray paint brand best matches the black on the glass faceplates?
I'm going to touch up a MR73 and want it right the first attempt. I think I read Krylon was the correct match.

Also, any prep tips will be appreciated.


Steve
 
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Terry DeWick used to recommend Rustoleum. I have used Testors model paint to good effect.
 
I use Rustoleum gloss black in a small can. You will need to brush it on to build up a thick layer, and melt? the edges into existing paint membrane. As it's drying, put up the glass to strong light to see how it looks, and layer again...I have done that with my MA5100, MA6100, C32....
 
It took me some time earlier, but I found a Rustoleum spread with a flat blade screwdriver thread with Terry's comments in it..
Unfortunately, one the bubble areas is really close to some lettering, so I'm a little apprehensive.

I'm thinking about ordering a new one from Radio Daze if I screw this up.
Has anyone heard if they are a good source?

Thanks for your help and let me know if you have any input on Radio Daze's replacement glass.
 
When I was in the business of buying, refurbing, and reselling, I did many faceplate repairs - so many in fact, that I built a light box to set the faceplate down onto to expose the problem areas. You cannot repair areas that have bubbled at the lettering, short of that you can fix it all, even the problematic area around the headphone jacks on the MC2505 and MC2105 (after removing the expoxy first).

I took an X-Acto and carefully removed ONLY the offending spots. Use the knife to remove the dried up paint, not slice it off. Anything you slice down to the glass is going to be a BIG repair. Every area that you expose for repair will have the paint lift off around the area you've removed. This is a byproduct of the repair process and you'll see immediately what I'm talking about when you get into it.

Then, put the color down with a small model brush. You're not painting it on mind you, just using the brush as the medium to get the paint into the affected area. As the paint hits the glass, it will wick under the original paint which has lifted up around the repair, which is what you want. Finesse and patience is the key.

For color, well that all depends on how much sun the original glass has seen. You can mix testors with other brands of black to get close. I used to use another brand's Jet Black.

My philosophy was always - I can still buy a new faceplate if my repairs don't come out perfect. I did so many that I got quite good at it.
 
damacman said:
When I was in the business of buying, refurbing, and reselling, I did many faceplate repairs - so many in fact, that I built a light box to set the faceplate down onto to expose the problem areas. You cannot repair areas that have bubbled at the lettering, short of that you can fix it all, even the problematic area around the headphone jacks on the MC2505 and MC2105 (after removing the expoxy first).

I took an X-Acto and carefully removed ONLY the offending spots. Use the knife to remove the dried up paint, not slice it off. Anything you slice down to the glass is going to be a BIG repair. Every area that you expose for repair will have the paint lift off around the area you've removed. This is a byproduct of the repair process and you'll see immediately what I'm talking about when you get into it.

Then, put the color down with a small model brush. You're not painting it on mind you, just using the brush as the medium to get the paint into the affected area. As the paint hits the glass, it will wick under the original paint which has lifted up around the repair, which is what you want. Finesse and patience is the key.

For color, well that all depends on how much sun the original glass has seen. You can mix testors with other brands of black to get close. I used to use another brand's Jet Black.

My philosophy was always - I can still buy a new faceplate if my repairs don't come out perfect. I did so many that I got quite good at it.
Click to expand...

Thanks damacman
Between a PM from Chris and your advice, I at least have the confidence to give it a go.
I'm really glad you pointed out the lifting around the repair. I would've been chasing my tail with that one.;)
I'm going to try it out on a safe area away from letters on my mq101 before going to the 73.

Funny, my oldest piece (c28) has never bubbled anywhere.

Thanks to everyone who gave me advice :)

Steve
 
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