Finally got the LED kit in the MC352

+1 for the kit.
I left comments about how great this kit is that somehow got bumped from the McIntosh forum to the feedback section of the forum.
Anyway, it matches the look of newer Mc equipment. Can't wait for later this year when I redo the system. MX150 + 3 X MC501 + MC352 = WOW!
 
One of these days I have to put that kit in - both the C2200 and the 352.


Just the thought of heaving that 352 around is the only thing that makes me think twice.


Pictures I'm sure don't look as good as seeing it in person.
 
chuckworkb said:
One of these days I have to put that kit in - both the C2200 and the 352.


Just the thought of heaving that 352 around is the only thing that makes me think twice.


Pictures I'm sure don't look as good as seeing it in person.
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Chuck.......I totally understand the hesitation to dig into the MC352. I had my LED kit for the MC352 for almost two months, just sitting in the box waiting. I don't know what got into me yesterday, but I decided to get it done. I think the anticipation of the work was worse than actually doing the work. How I managed to get the amp turned upside down was to roll it onto a couple thick, dense pillows, one for the side to keep the glass off the carpet, and one for the transformers to rest on once it was turned over. Getting the MC352 out and back onto the bottom shelf of the rack was a chore. I managed this by lifting the rear of the amp until I got the feet on the shelf, then lifting the front and sliding it backwards until the front feet could be set down on the shelf. That amp is solid dead weight, but it can be done by one person, providing the determination is there. The end results look great, much better than the photos I posted.

The C2200 was easier to do. I did the preamp LED kit installation in about 45 minutes on top of the dining room table. Nothing to it, really. The LED kits dramatically improved the appearance of both the C2200 and the MC352. Go for it.
 
jdandy said:
kamehany.......You may have over looked my original concept. I had no lamps burned out on the MC352 amplifier. I wasn't performing a repair. I just didn't want those particular OEM parts (incandescent lamps) in the amp. That was the reason for removing the OEM light strips and replacing them with LED strips. The MC352 meters were not matching the color or brightness of my C2200 preamplifier with the LED lighting kit installed in it. By adding the LED lighting kit to the MC352, I now have a perfect color and brightness match with the C2200. More over, I have the extreme long term reliability that comes with lower temperature LED's verses incandescent lamps with filiments that routinely burn out.
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Having never taken the front off of an MC352 and knowing how heavy they are (as does my chiropractor:D), I am wondering that since the front feet are set back 3.25 inches, would it be possible to merely pull the amp out as far as possible in its rack with 3.25 inches showing on top and bottom and do the necessary surgery in that space since the bottom and top would be exposed?

MikeSp
 
MikeSp said:
Having never taken the front off of an MC352 and knowing how heavy they are (as does my chiropractor:D), I am wondering that since the front feet are set back 3.25 inches, would it be possible to merely pull the amp out as far as possible in its rack with 3.25 inches showing on top and bottom and do the necessary surgery in that space since the bottom and top would be exposed?

MikeSp
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Mike.......Nice attempt at saving another visit to the chiropractor, but no cigar. The bottom plate on the amplifier has to be removed in order to gain access to the two screws on each side under the chassis that hold the face plate bracket to the chassis. These screws can only be reached after the bottom panel has been completely removed.

If you have a friend that can help you remove the amp from the rack, help you turn it over when it's time, and stick around for about an hour until it's time to turn the amp right side up again, that would be the ideal situation.
 
I wrestled solo with a MC602 today, replaced the handles with the new design & LED kit. Then installed it to drive my HT-2 subs up front.

I also boxed up a pair of MC501's single handed.

My body is already telling me "silly rabbit" :worried:
 
masterlu said:
I wrestled solo with a MC602 today, replaced the handles with the new design. Then installed it to drive my HT-2 subs up front.

I also boxed up a pair of MC501's single handed.

My body is already telling me "silly rabbit" :worried:
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You REALLY need to start acting your age before a wheel chair makes you look older than you are. :yes:

Do they make Advil the size of your thumb? I think you're going to need a few.
 
jdandy said:
You REALLY need to start acting your age before a wheel chair makes you look older than you are. :yes:

Do they make Advil the size of your thumb? I think you're going to need a few.
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I know, not too bright. Still there is that great satisfaction from doing something yourself. :smoke:

501's are pretty light after you schlepp a 602 around for a bit...
 
masterlu said:
I know, not too bright. Still there is that great satisfaction from doing something yourself.
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I have the exact same mentality. I rarely ask for anyone's help with anything. I guess when I'm laying on my back in the middle of the studio floor with that MC501, or a MC352 planted on my chest, I'll be interested in a little help then. :yes:
 
jdandy said:
I have the exact same mentality. I rarely ask for anyone's help with anything. I guess when I'm laying on my back in the middle of the studio floor with that MC501, or a MC352 planted on my chest, I'll be interested in a little help then. :yes:
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I suspect that there are many of us like that. I'd rather wrestle with something most of the day than ask for help with something I believe that I can do myself. Maybe I'm just goofy. :screwy:
 
masterlu said:
I wrestled solo with a MC602 today, replaced the handles with the new design & LED kit.
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Same for me ... except I did not do it myself and also did not change the new design handles as I felt it will loose its identity as a last generation McIntosh. :D

BUT the LED mod is definitely a MUST do :yes: ... Now just waiting anxiously for the unit to arrive next week!

Cheers!:banana:
 
jdandy said:
Mike.......Nice attempt at saving another visit to the chiropractor, but no cigar. The bottom plate on the amplifier has to be removed in order to gain access to the two screws on each side under the chassis that hold the face plate bracket to the chassis. These screws can only be reached after the bottom panel has been completely removed.

If you have a friend that can help you remove the amp from the rack, help you turn it over when it's time, and stick around for about an hour until it's time to turn the amp right side up again, that would be the ideal situation.
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Thanks -- but I guessed it would require the bottom plate to come off. Like others have posted, I too prefer to do all of the work myself -- even hung and finished the sheetrock in my HT that is under construction -- by myself (as well as wired, plumbed, cut concrete, etc.) and now time to make cabinets and the bar. BUT I draw the line at laying the carpet:D .

MikeSp
 
jdandy said:
Mike.......It took me about an hour from start to finish. There is no soldering, everything is pin connectors, and a small power supply board that gets installed on the bottom side of the amp above the power supply board on a short stand-off. All the work can be completed with a phillips head screw driver and a 1/4" nut driver. The kit includes the LED power supply board, the LED light strips for the two meters, new filters for both meters, and a LED light strip that replaces the lamps for the lower back lit writing. The directions are fairly clear, although they did not explain that the wiring harness from one meter LED strip plugs into the circuit board on the other meter LED strip. The directions also tell you to reinstall the front panel before you connect two pin connectors from the LED power supply board and the lower LED strip. I had to remove the screws from the front panel bracket after reinstalling them, so that I could move the front panel out far enough to get my hand in there to plug the pin connectors in, then reinstall the front panel bracket screws. The installation is straight forward with those two exceptions. The hardest part was turning the amp upside down to get at the screws for the front panel mounting bracket, and then geting it turned back right side up once the work had been completed. You don't want to put any weight or stress on the front panel glass. The MC352 weighs 107 lbs. You don't just move it around like a preamp. Follow the directions line for line and you will do just fine. The way the amp and meters look when complete makes the effort worthwhile.
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Is it possible to place the MC352 just slightly over the edge of a sturdy table so that I can reach underneath to unscrew the screws that secure the front panel instead of turning the amplifier upside down as you have done. Oops! Just read the other threads (answers) posted regarding this.
 
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