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Finished! Kegger-designed SE EL84 monoblocks

Nate (redboy) has them now but he told my just the other day that he did not want them anymore and offered to send them to me.....free.
 
Nate (redboy) has them now but he told my just the other day that he did not want them anymore and offered to send them to me.....free.

Well dang, he promised to send them to me with a benjamin tucked in the box:D
 
Coincidentally, yes. :)

This is prior to attaching the bases, input/output stuff and some PS wiring is not yet complete:

0519 002.jpg
 
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I already have the opt's, chokes, tubes, and most of the hardware. Would only need chassis power transformers, sockets, and misc bits. How does it compare to your 2a3's?
 
How does it compare to your 2a3's?
They're not quite as refined as 2A3s, but I'm impressed at just how good a single ended pentode (and especially the EL84) can be. Without the 2A3s side by side for comparison, you wouldn't miss much. I had a hunch that an EL84 amp could sound very good if it was treated with the same quality components usually reserved for the "good" triodes, and that was the idea here. I'd like to upgrade a few parts still, but it has played out well so far.
What are the dimensions of those plates?
Top plates are 6x14, subplates are an inch smaller.
 
Are those the chokes referenced in the compactron thread? something like 8 henry and ~ 150 ohms dcr?

nice and clean underneath! interesting to hear your impression vs the 2a3 as well!

nice work all around!
 
Sorry guy's, just a bit busy lately.

I'll get it adjusted an posted in the next few days. (hopefully).. ;)
 
Sorry for the delay.. (way to long on my part) .. :(

But everything is all shook out now, here is the amp and supply schematic.
Nate is running mono's so this is for 1 channel, both supply an audio circuit.

If you wanted to do a stereo amp you could use the same supply but up the
6.8uf input cap to say 33uf an drop the chokes resistance to 75ohm a piece
or use a power tranny with a bit more voltage then the 275v Nate used here.
(so however you can get say 315-330v of clean B+ is good to go)

Also Nate went with all poly caps in the supply, lately I've been building amps
with similar style supply, but generally use electrolytic's for the larger caps an
my second choke is a much smaller one followed by a larger cap, like 220-470.

Also if building the stereo amp and wanting to use 1 dual triode instead of the
2 6AU6, the 6BK7/6BQ7/6BZ7 family of tubes will drop right in the same circuit.
(the 6BK7/6BQ7/6BZ7 family of tubes are a very good fit there)

1 Last thing the EL84 here are running at a pretty good clip, if your worried for
your vintage EL84's "lasting" you may want to up the 240ohm cathode resistor
to 270ohm, the amp should sound it's best with the 240 but if yur running high
on PS voltage the 270 may be an better option, I wouldn't "worry" about it but
thought I'd mention it, running those Russian 7189 equivalent tubes your rockin.

Anyways that should about do it, if there are any questions or "alterations" ask. ;)

-
 

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Hey Kegger, Thanks for the update. I've got an amp in the final build stage so I think I will implement what changes I can. Thanks again,

Stan

PS: How do you think LED's on the cathode of driver would work out? I'm using half of a 6BQ7 per channel.
 
They will work, you'll probably have "just enough" current to not have them do
anything ugly, the main reasons I didn't use them here are, low current and the
no local feedback they provide gives you more gain then is really "needed" here.
(with the LED try say a 100-150k FBK resistor instead of the 220K)

Experiment, try it with the LED, then with the 510ohm cathode resistor, I would
be curious what you feel sounds better to you.
 
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