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First Impressions of new Tung-Sol 6SL7 Gold Pin

FauxHall

Super Member
The Willsenton R8 integrated came with an OEM-branded pair 6SL7s as the front end tubes. I splurged on a pair of new Tung-Sol Gold Pins ($100 a pair, plus Fed Ex ($$$!) from US) labeled 6SL7GT.

I've got around 10 to 20 hours on them now and think they improve the sound. Just a bit smoother and a bit less noisy than the presumably Chinese tubes that came with the unit. Note that I'm using a new Luxman tube preamp now to drive unit. I'm guessing that the 6SL7s are still in the circuit. The change to SQ supports that guess but it is very subjective since it relies on audible memory. The schematic provided by the vendor was too much of a sketch to be certain.

Worth $100+? As a learning experience about tube rolling, sure. But for pure delta sound quality? Not so sure - it was a deliberate splurge so for someone more frugal, maybe not.
Gold pins (2).jpgDSC_1929.JPG
 
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Yikes! I don't keep up with the market for new production tubes but that seems like a lot of money. Maybe it's the gold pins? Gold is more resistant to oxidation over time but it won't have any appreciable effect on the sound quality. Others might disagree.

I suppose you know that these are not the same as the original Tung Sols. Someone bought the rights to use the name, that's all. Unfortunately, many people don't realize this.

There are also current production tubes branded Mullard, Genelex Gold Lion, Telefunken, and perhaps others. None are the same as the originals, it's all marketing.

I actually commented on this in another thread earlier today and I looked up the Tung Sols because that's what the poster was considering.

NOS 6SN7s can get expensive. The big dealer near me, which has a warehouse with many millions of tubes, lists "generic" 6SN7s for $20. I'm not sure which brands fall into that category but I'm sure they are NOS.

Edit: It looks like I've gotten confused and posted stuff about 6SN7s, likely because of my response to a different thread, while this thread is about 6SL7s. I apologize for any confusion. I've made some corrections. Turns out the "generic" versions of the 6SL7 are even cheaper - $15. For some reason I can't pull up their list of "audio" 6SL7s. The 12SL7s are the same price as the 12SN7s - $5. All of my other comments still apply, however.

They also have a long list of various brands and variations of 6SN7s in their "NOS Audio" category which are, as expected, not cheap. Yet many are cheaper, or no more expensive, than these, including several variations of NOS Tung Sols. Some are more expensive too, of course.

https://vacuumtubes.net/RES Audio pages/6sn7.html

The poster in the other thread was planning on building a buffer kit in which a variety of tubes could be used. I suggested that he use NOS 12SN7s instead. Exact same tube but with a 12.6v heater. That same big dealer lists NOS 12SN7s for $5 each! Even the non-gold pin, new production Tung Sol 6SN7s cost about 5x more.

https://vacuumtubes.net/Prices 12A to 29LE3.htm

Obviously, you don't have that option. You could, however, change the sockets. The loctal base version of the 6SL7, the 7F7, sells for $7 NOS, for example. Loctals, regardless of how they're branded, were all made by Sylvania so there's not as much variety. The same Sylvania tube with the more common octal base (6SL7) is much more expensive.

I would think that the 6SL7s in your amp are still in the signal path unless your preamp plugs into a totally different input which somehow bypasses the amp's input tubes. That's not common.

To really tell the difference you need to listen as you did before, without the preamp, especially if it's a tube preamp. Many people find that the first tube affects the sound more than the ones that follow.
 
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Personally, I'm not interested in spending money on NOS. Seems like a huge crap shoot with little predictability of results for money spent. Especially in my case with such high shipping costs.

New production is more repeatable and the manufacturers are trying to build brand reputation. I feel I can trust other users' feedback somewhat more. And yes, new tubes are not the same as the originals. I don't think too much of "passed down" marketing halos either. I'll let the new tubes' reputations stand on their own. I suspect that current manufacturers do at least TRY to deliver on the halo of the Golden Age tubes' reputations. Whether they can do so is another question I'm not too worried about.

As to FlaCharlie's recommendation of reconnecting my system - I'll pass. This is how I want my system configured so performance in this configuration is my criterion.

I do have a set of new TungSol 6SN7s in the mail for the power amp's driver stage. These are not Gold Pin and also replace the OEM Chinese tubes. Also have a quad of TungSol EL34s in the same delivery.

BTW, plugged in a new quad of EH 6CA7s last night as a swap for the EH KT90s. So far, so good.

I've still to order 6550s and new, non-Chinese KT88s. That should give me a complete rotation of all the power tube variants the Willsenton R8 will support. Not every make but every model.

In a separate thread on rolling the front end 6SL7/6SN7s, the consensus seemed to be that I shouldn't expect much difference from new production or even NOS so I think I'll rest with the new TungSol signal tubes, My limited experience so far, in the current configuration, supports that consensus opinion.
 
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Sylvania JAN 6SL7WGT's are $25 a piece, best 6SL7 ever made. No crap shoot there. You're welcome to spend twice that, but don't diss NOS, please. ;-)
 
Sylvania JAN 6SL7WGT's are $25 a piece, best 6SL7 ever made. No crap shoot there. You're welcome to spend twice that, but don't diss NOS, please. ;-)

Thank you for sharing your experience and your opinion but I see no rebuttal of my reasoning founded on my situation and risk/reward calculus. I didn't "diss" NOS; I just said I didn't trust buying them with my money. Some NOS might be clearly superior to current production and some current production might be better than the best NOS. I just have no way to know one way or the other for my amplifier. I don't want to take that gamble and think current production is a safer bet.
 
My all-time favorite 6SL7-type tube. The gray-glass, black plate, brown based 6SU7GTY. :)

tungsol_6su7gty_6sl7_black_glass.jpg
tung-sol-6su7gty-6sl7-vt229-matched_1_399f6520e5c1a205210c1cf684abb417.jpg
 
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Personally, I'm not interested in spending money on NOS. Seems like a huge crap shoot with little predictability of results for money spent. Especially in my case with such high shipping costs.

New production is more repeatable and the manufacturers are trying to build brand reputation. I feel I can trust other users' feedback somewhat more. And yes, new tubes are not the same as the originals. I don't think too much of "passed down" marketing halos either. I'll let the new tubes' reputations stand on their own. I suspect that current manufacturers do at least TRY to deliver on the halo of the Golden Age tubes' reputations. Whether they can do so is another question I'm not too worried about.

As to FlaCharlie's recommendation of reconnecting my system - I'll pass. This is how I want my system configured so performance in this configuration is my criterion.

I do have a set of new TungSol 6SN7s in the mail for the power amp's driver stage. These are not Gold Pin and also replace the OEM Chinese tubes. Also have a quad of TungSol EL34s in the same delivery.

BTW, plugged in a new quad of EH 6CA7s last night as a swap for the EH KT90s. So far, so good.

I've still to order 6550s and new, non-Chinese KT88s. That should give me a complete rotation of all the power tube variants the Willsenton R8 will support. Not every make but every model.

In a separate thread on rolling the front end 6SL7/6SN7s, the consensus seemed to be that I shouldn't expect much difference from new production or even NOS so I think I'll rest with the new TungSol signal tubes, My limited experience so far, in the current configuration, supports that consensus opinion.
Just to be clear, I'm not suggesting that the new production Tung Sol 6SL7, or any other new production tube, isn't a decent tube.

But if I could buy a NOS Tung Sol for the same price I'd go with the NOS. And I certainly wouldn't pay twice the price for a tube that has gold plated pins, regardless of when it was made.

If the current manufacturers really wanted to "build brand reputation" they wouldn't spend (likely considerable) money buying the rights to a famous brand name from the past. Instead of legitimately building the reputation of their own brand over time they are taking a shortcut, riding the coattails of another brand, trying to take advantage of the reputation of the original company.

The sad thing is that many buyers think they are the same.

Were those sold to you as a "matched pair"? The section to section readings of the one on the left are not particularly close. As far as consistency and repeatability goes, I took a look at the test results of several 6SL7s and 12SL7s I have (some NOS, some used) and, with the exception of a couple well used ones, the sections were all not only closer than that but stronger as well. Sure, tester differences come into play, but still.

IMO, tube rolling is almost always "a huge crap shoot with little predictability of results for money spent" regardless of whether you buy NOS or new production.

The thing about tube reviews is that they are not only system dependent but also based on the subjective tastes, and previous experience, of the reviewer. Now, you might take it more seriously if the reviewer uses exactly the same equipment that you do. But the chances of that are slim.

I don't get into claiming that a particular brand / version of tube sounds a certain way. If a tube has lots of positive reviews, great. But I take comments about specifics with a huge grain of salt.

When I read reviews of new production tubes I usually come away with the impression that a high percentage of the reviewers have very little experience with tubes in general. And, in addition, many of them are using the tubes in guitar amps so their comments are of questionable utility. The majority have probably never heard a comparable NOS tube.

Now, I admit that my experience with new production tubes is very limited so I would never say they don't sound good. But, I almost never see reports of NOS tubes developing problems soon after they are put into use. I have, on numerous occasions, seen such comments about new production - especially with rectifiers and output tubes, which are under more stress than small signal tubes.

Lots of dedicated tube rollers write glowing reviews of a particular tube. But the nature of the beast is that they are never satisfied. A few months (weeks? days? hours?? minutes even??) later those wonderful tubes are often in a drawer with a pile of other$ and they're trying out the next "holy grail" tube they've discovered. At least, if you don't like a highly regarded old production tube you can sell it and probably recoup most of your money. Its market value will likely go up over time, just as it has with most vintage gear.

When shopping for tubes it's always a good idea to check the prices of the big dealers, like the one I linked. I've found plenty of good deals on eBay too. As always, if you take your time and shop around you'll get a better idea of what's reasonable and what's crazy. Nothing wrong with strong testing used tubes, either.

There are a lot of "boutique" dealers out there whose prices are ridiculous. They are marketing geniuses though, just read the poetic descriptions of the tubes they offer. Funny how the "best sounding" and most exotic brands / versions just happen to be whatever they have in stock at the time. The more hype, the less chance that you're going to get a reasonable deal. IMO.

Of course, there are a lot of people who are convinced that if something is more expensive it must be better. So it's not surprising that there are always some sellers whose business model is based on taking advantage of that psychological factor.

There's one eBay seller, whose moniker I won't mention, who regularly lists NOS tubes at prices that are 3x to 6x higher than all the other listings for exactly the same tubes. Apparently, there are enough suckers out there for them to prosper. I've also seen gear that goes unsold be re-listed several times with no buyers. Then, instead of lowering the price, the seller raises the price, and the gear sells. It never ceases to amaze me.

My comment on re-connecting your system is simply that, if you want to compare the sound of different tubes, you won't be able to tell much unless the rest of the system is unchanged and the only difference is the tubes.
 
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I would never spend $100 for two current production 6SL7 tubes when American made NOS
tubes are available for half the $. There plenty of used old 6SL7's that are already burned in
and check like new. They're great front end tubes. Used one in my scratch built Champ amp.
I only use current production for output tubes due to ludicrous prices on NOS. Sovtec or EH.
 
Based on my own examinations and testing, including curve tracing, all of the modern 6SL7 and 6SN7 types I have encountered are neither; they have always been 12AX7 or 12AU7 sections installed into a fat bottle. In my opinion, nothing more than marketing wank trying to open up another revenue stream. I will stick to NOS.
 
I would never spend $100 for two current production 6SL7 tubes when American made NOS
tubes are available for half the $. There plenty of used old 6SL7's that are already burned in and check like new. They're great front end tubes. Used one in my scratch built Champ amp. I only use current production for output tubes due to ludicrous prices on NOS. Sovtec or EH.
Are the new production 6V6s that much cheaper? You must be shopping at one of the "boutique" dealers who specialize in selling hyped up tubes to guitar players.

Or are you using a different output tube in your Champ?

That big dealer lists NOS 6V6s from $25 to $40 including cool ST shaped for $30. And strong used old production are not hard to find for even less.

https://vacuumtubes.net/RES Audio pages/6v6.html

The same tricks I suggested earlier can be applied to the 6V6 too. They were also made with 5v heaters (5V6GT, $6 each) and 12.6v heaters (12V6GT, $5 each). Or go with a loctal socket and use the 6.3v 7C5 ($9) or the 12.6v 14C5 ($3).

The 6SL7 was also made as 12SL7s ($5). The loctal versions are the 7F7 ($7) and 14F7 ($4).
 
Or go with a loctal socket and use the 6.3v 7C5 ($9) or the 12.6v 14C5 ($3).

The 6SL7 was also made as 12SL7s ($5). The loctal versions are the 7F7 ($7) and 14F7 ($4).

I am a huge fan of the many Loctal tube versions. Most were of ruggedized construction for mobile applications, so they are more mechanically rugged and the heaters are designed for greater voltage variations. They last forever in musical instrument applications:)
 
Tone emulation is best done with tone controls.
I agree. The quote was from the OP, not me.

Many dedicated tube rollers would have a lot more $$$ in their pockets if they were willing to use tone controls.

It looks like I've had 6SN7s on the brain - likely from a post on another thread - while the OP's new Tung Sols are 6SL7s. Doh!

My comments apply, nevertheless. And the test results of some of the tubes in my stash, which I referred to earlier, were actually 6SL7s and 12SL7s, not the SN versions. Sorry for any confusion. I'll go back and edit.
 
Did I ever tell you what one of my all-time favorite 6V6GT tubes were? :)

A hint.
3-NOS-NIB-Plate-Current-Matched-GE-JAN-_57.jpg
 
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Mr. Boochie has it right, those NOS tubes are quite good. And not much money, unless a whole lot of Audiophillia gets written into the ebay description. Type 6SU7 especially... :)
cheers,
Douglas
 
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