Apologies for bumping this thread with another stupid question, but I am quite lost. In the process of removing the tonearm but can't figure out how to disconnect this https://imgur.com/a/r5Yaiix without clipping it.
First vintage table - issues with Thorens TD 150 MKII
- Thread starter jlalor
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- advice needed thorens
muchachos
Active Member
Hi jialor - be sure not to clip that wire! It is the cord which operates the cuing mechanism. I am not 100% familiar with the precise mechanisms - I have a TD 165 - but I believe that the brass cord is attached at the cuing knob mechanism itself.
I'm back again! Making slow progress, have removed the original tonearm/armboard and am in the middle of sourcing/making replacements. Last part of the job is removing the cuing mechanism from the base. I assume it's glued in place? What is the best way of removing it without causing any harm?
Macaroonie
Super Member
Your best plan is to make a new armboard from MDF or Birch Ply. , leave the rest of the gubbins complete , someone will want/need it.
Treasure that TD 150 , it begat the Ariston RD11 which begat the Linn LP12.
What you should be concerned with in the first instance is whether the rotating system is all running smoothly.
If you do run the tt without the arm / armboard sub in a weight on the end of the chassis to simulate the arm assembly weight. Aerosol cap with pennies in it does the trick , just add enough pennies so that the sprung suspension is free to operate.
Clean out the main bearing with cotton buds and alcohol , clean the main platter bearing shaft , add oil to the housing.
It should spin smoothly and silently.
Connect the belt and run the motor , listen for any motor noise.
Thats your homework for now.
Treasure that TD 150 , it begat the Ariston RD11 which begat the Linn LP12.
What you should be concerned with in the first instance is whether the rotating system is all running smoothly.
If you do run the tt without the arm / armboard sub in a weight on the end of the chassis to simulate the arm assembly weight. Aerosol cap with pennies in it does the trick , just add enough pennies so that the sprung suspension is free to operate.
Clean out the main bearing with cotton buds and alcohol , clean the main platter bearing shaft , add oil to the housing.
It should spin smoothly and silently.
Connect the belt and run the motor , listen for any motor noise.
Thats your homework for now.
Last edited:
Macaroonie
Super Member
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...&_nkw=thorens+td150+armboard+upgrade&_sacat=0
Here's some ready made armboards. Pre cut for various arms. Frankly for £1.5 worth of MDF you can readily make your own.
Don't discard the original arm , once you have it off in one piece you can more easily investigate whats up. It's as simple as a kids see saw really.. Lets see what you have there. Learn how to attach pics on to this site , Offshore image handlers are a PITA. Remember that the cartridge wires run through the tube and then down through the mounting pillar , so if you take it all to bits you will need to re thread the wires.
I just had a look on the bay for UK tonearms , ouch , prices have skyrocketed , so be careful , your original arm may be fixable , or someone here may jump in with something worthy at sensible money.
M
Here's some ready made armboards. Pre cut for various arms. Frankly for £1.5 worth of MDF you can readily make your own.
Don't discard the original arm , once you have it off in one piece you can more easily investigate whats up. It's as simple as a kids see saw really.. Lets see what you have there. Learn how to attach pics on to this site , Offshore image handlers are a PITA. Remember that the cartridge wires run through the tube and then down through the mounting pillar , so if you take it all to bits you will need to re thread the wires.
I just had a look on the bay for UK tonearms , ouch , prices have skyrocketed , so be careful , your original arm may be fixable , or someone here may jump in with something worthy at sensible money.
M
To be honest there's no chance I'm paying for an armboard, this thing is going to cost me enough! I'll grab an mdf offcut and some matte black paint from the DIY shop around the corner. Down the line I might try a dark hardwood plinth/armboard but I think I prefer the look of the black armboard. My only concern is that the shop only have 9mm MDF, no idea would the missing mm of thickness make a difference.
I will definitely not chuck the arm but I think I will sell as is, hopefully someone would drop a few quid on it for the headshell/counterweight/antiskate weight alone. I do think I will need to remove the cuing mechanism though, as it's currently loose, as seen in the picture.
The market for tonearms is rough, at least on ebay, SME 3009s going for over £600 and couldn't even find a Linn Basik for under £150. I do have a tonearm on the way though, took a chance and bought a custom unipivot from a guy whose work I really like.
Thanks for all your help across both messages, a lot for me to take in and I really appreciate it.
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stratokaster
Mental toss flycoon
eBay prices are silly, your best bet would be to join a couple of British audio forums such as Hi-Fi Wigwam / Pink Fish Media and watching classifieds there. I bought my whole system through audio forums and I saved at least €2000 compared to buying on eBay.
Macaroonie
Super Member
Regarding armboards you need to replicate the thickness of the stock item. It's years since I had one of those in my mitts , I'm guessing 10mm. Birch ply would be better if you can find an offcut.
See if you can find a manufacturing shopfitter near you. Or get some 1/2" and thin it down.
See if you can find a manufacturing shopfitter near you. Or get some 1/2" and thin it down.
I've been trying to find 10mm plywood but no luck. Would be worried that if I sanded down 12mm that it might not be perfectly flat and that may cause issues.
is it workable at all to use 9mm material? It's absolutely impossible to find 10mm MDF, ply, or hardwood. For the price of the piece of acrylic I may as well just buy an armboard.
Macaroonie
Super Member
If you get some 1/2" ply and remove only enough to allow the chassis to sit in place you will not have to remove as much material. Ply laminations can be separated qute easily wwith a chisel.. You only need to remove 2.5 mm which if you are lucky will be either 2 or 3 laminations.. This is all so that when the suspension is set correctly the top face of the arm board will be flush with the top of the plinth.
Just do two saw cuts 2.5mm deep at either side of the area you want to remove.
I have a router that would do that job in a jiffy. Take your time and it will come out fine
Just do two saw cuts 2.5mm deep at either side of the area you want to remove.
I have a router that would do that job in a jiffy. Take your time and it will come out fine