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Fisher 222

Jenkster

Jenkster

When I had talent
Subscriber
A friend of mine gave me this nice little Fisher 222 a while back. He said it didn't work and thought I might be able to fix it. Just got around to checking it out today and found a blown 2 amp fuse. Thankfully I got a boat load of those!:thmbsp: Cleaned it up a bit, hosed down the pots, and it works great! Got it hooked up to a pair of Pioneer CR-S700 speakers which are pretty efficient and they make a nice combo.:music: Not a whole lot out there on this model other than an old AK thread. A whopping 17 watts per channel from the mid 70's. It looks like this one is from 74. It appears that a couple of dial lamps are out but that's about it. Anyone have any experience with this receiver or more info.?
 
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Hooked it up to my Klipsch Cornwalls that are more efficient than the Pioneers. I have to say I am more than impressed by the way the little Fisher drives them! I may have found a new garage receiver to drive my beater Heresy's.:yes:
 
Jenkster,
That's a nice receiver. I think some of the engineers stayed on with Emerson and they produced some nice designs. If it's still voiced like a tubester, you're in luck. I came across a 200 one time and I was very impressed with not only the voicing but the build quality and looks. Yours is of the same vintage. They just don't get too loud or you can start to hear the lack of horsepower in hard clipping.
 
If the Brand badge says "THE FISHER" it's an EMERSON FISHER or an Early SANYO FISHER. If it says "FISHER" it's a Sanyo. Avery FISHER apparently stipulated when he left SANYO, that the name "THE FISHER" could no longer be used. After he left "STUDIO STANDARD by Fisher" became the nome de plume.

The 222 was made from 71-73 IIRC. So it's more than likely an EMERSON. Look on the back and check the address of the Manufacturer. If it's New York, or says designed in USA it's an EMERSON.

Larry
 
audiodon said:
Jenkster,
That's a nice receiver. I think some of the engineers stayed on with Emerson and they produced some nice designs. If it's still voiced like a tubester, you're in luck. I came across a 200 one time and I was very impressed with not only the voicing but the build quality and looks. Yours is of the same vintage. They just don't get too loud or you can start to hear the lack of horsepower in hard clipping.
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Hey Don, it is a very nice sounding receiver. Don't think it has a protection/delay when powered up, kinda' pops a bit but then, dead quiet. Pots are all quiet, FM/AM works fine, really a nice unit. It is very articulate on the highs and mids, even the bass is accurate though not thunderous.:no: Doesn't take much to get great sound out of the Cornwalls.:music: It will not replace the Fisher X-100-3 or Scott 299c but, as I said, it will make a great garage receiver.:thmbsp:
 
larryderouin said:
If the Brand badge says "THE FISHER" it's an EMERSON FISHER or an Early SANYO FISHER. If it says "FISHER" it's a Sanyo. Avery FISHER apparently stipulated when he left SANYO, that the name "THE FISHER" could no longer be used. After he left "STUDIO STANDARD by Fisher" became the nome de plume.

The 222 was made from 71-73 IIRC. So it's more than likely an EMERSON. Look on the back and check the address of the Manufacturer. If it's New York, or says designed in USA it's an EMERSON.

Larry
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Hello Larry, thanks for the information. On the back it says, The Fisher, 120VAC 60 Hz, 60 W (8 ohm load), Fisher Radio, New York, Made in Japan. On the front it just says Fisher Studio Standard. I can assume from this that it's an Emerson or early Sanyo. Stamped inside on the chasis is 1974 and some other numbers?
 
That "Tube Like" Sound?

I have been playing this receiver for a few days now in my main system. I am just thoroughly impressed with the warm yet punchy sound!:yes: I have two great tube amps with other assorted SS stuff and have to say, this little receiver gives them a run....... Not as smooth in the mid-range and the bass may be just a touch sloppy. That said, overall I feel I could live with it in a pinch, even long term. Anyone have that experience of very low expectations and just the opposite happens?
 
Probably the age of the caps contributing to the rough edges and somewhat sloppy bass. Many of the (botl/motl) FISHER Transistor receivers in the 70's were cap coupled. The only speaker protection is a couple of fuses. NO RELAY! That will account for a pop at start up and the sound fading out when shut off.

Larry
 
larryderouin said:
Probably the age of the caps contributing to the rough edges and somewhat sloppy bass. Many of the (botl/motl) FISHER Transistor receivers in the 70's were cap coupled. The only speaker protection is a couple of fuses. NO RELAY! That will account for a pop at start up and the sound fading out when shut off.

Larry
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Thanks for that Larry, I was wondering about the pair of 2 amp fuses in addition to the main fuse. I am using a power strip for power up/down placing the speaker selector knob, on/off knob, on the heaphone only position. This way there is no initial pop to the speakers when turned on. There is some noise when the speakers are selected but minimal. Hopefully this is an acceptable way to turn it on and off? Would it be better to plug in an old set of headphones so it has a load or???:dunno:
 
Good way to go for now. Don't worry about phones if the only thing you're doing is shut down/power up from a power strip.

If/when you open it up, I think you'll find 2 2000uf or larger caps on the power supply board, and a 1000uf-1500uf /50V on the side of the amp board. And maybe another 1000-1500 uf cap probably on or near the power supply. Replace these 3-4 and the noise/pop should go almost completely away. I say almost as these are the biggest offenders, but there are more than a few on the amp board, control board, preamp that will contribute to the noise/pop. The possibility exists that if you only replace these large one's one or more of the smaller one will stress out and let go. Best to do a total recap on it. This series is fairly easy to recap and is pretty cheap. Should be about $20 + shipping. My 500TX cost $24.+shipping to recap it. and it's a bit more complex.

Larry

Larry
 
larryderouin said:
Good way to go for now. Don't worry about phones if the only thing you're doing is shut down/power up from a power strip.

If/when you open it up, I think you'll find 2 2000uf or larger caps on the power supply board, and a 1000uf-1500uf /50V on the side of the amp board. And maybe another 1000-1500 uf cap probably on or near the power supply. Replace these 3-4 and the noise/pop should go almost completely away. I say almost as these are the biggest offenders, but there are more than a few on the amp board, control board, preamp that will contribute to the noise/pop. The possibility exists that if you only replace these large one's one or more of the smaller one will stress out and let go. Best to do a total recap on it. This series is fairly easy to recap and is pretty cheap. Should be about $20 + shipping. My 500TX cost $24.+shipping to recap it. and it's a bit more complex.

Larry

Larry
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Thanks once again Larry! I have never ventured into doing a re-cap myself but it sounds like this would be a good receiver to start with. Considering it was given to me, even better!:thmbsp:
 
Here's some pics of the inside bottom and top for reference. To my untrained eye, it looks stock to me?
 
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Looks unmolested to me. The three Filter / output caps are the 2200uf/63V and the 1000uf/35V.

Size wise replacements, 3300/80V and 2200/50V x2 or that neighborhood.

Just do the 'lytics. Don't worry about the ceramic disks, mylars, or poly's already in there.

The DARK BROWN BOARDS are AM or FM RF / IF Boards (TUNER). Leave them be.

Picture 1. MPX(?) board. Leave it alone. Cap changes can change the alignment. Unless it tunes like crap don't mess with it.
Picture 2. Final AMP. Change all the GRAY ELNA caps.
Picture 3 Power supply board next to transformer. Change out all Gray ELNA Caps.
Also the LARGE 2200/63 cap.
Picture 4 Change out the 2 1000/35 caps.
Picture 5 Closeup of 4.

Nichicon UPW or UKL or UHE series. Panasonic FC series. Good Basic caps for this.
Mouser and Digikey primary sources. You should be able to get them all at one shot to save on shipping.

Get the manual for it. Compare the caps on it against the list on the manual. Make your list from what is in the receiver, as field and line changes weren't always put in the manual. Then make your "wishlist" and order. Doublecheck your count, and values. Order a couple extra of everything (pending approval of wallet). If you can't get extras, make doubly sure of your count.

This one is a good starter receiver to get your feet wet on. SHouldn't take more than a few hours to do. For a tech no more than 2 hours.

Larry
 
Once again, thanks Larry!:thmbsp: This will likely be a project for after the holidays. Just too much going on right now.:yes:
 
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