Fisher Consoles 1959-1965
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uenjoymyself
Surrender to the flow
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DustyOldPile
Vinyl Goddess
TheRed1
Console Conservationist
Chassis is the SS 31-R from 1967. The Dual will identify the exact model but the catalog doesn't list the 1015. Here's what it shows:
Dual 1014 = Regent
Dual 1009 = Statesman
Dual 1019 = Designer Series
The Executive also uses the 1019 but the changer would be on the left which rules out that model.
Dual 1014 = Regent
Dual 1009 = Statesman
Dual 1019 = Designer Series
The Executive also uses the 1019 but the changer would be on the left which rules out that model.
phillychris1
New Member
Hi all, I have a 1962 Fisher Futura III console. I got everything basically working, but with two minor annoyances...
1. When playing the phonograph, (a garrard turntable), the sound from the radio tuner bleeds into the speakers at a low volume. This also happens when I am running the auxillary input with a cd player or mp3 player.
2. The turntable arm always goes to the position for playing 45s, even when a 33 is playing. I can live with this, but I really would like to get rid of that bleeding into the speakers by the radio tuner when the other functions are supposed to be operating.
1. When playing the phonograph, (a garrard turntable), the sound from the radio tuner bleeds into the speakers at a low volume. This also happens when I am running the auxillary input with a cd player or mp3 player.
2. The turntable arm always goes to the position for playing 45s, even when a 33 is playing. I can live with this, but I really would like to get rid of that bleeding into the speakers by the radio tuner when the other functions are supposed to be operating.
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
In 1963, the Zenith had Micro-Touch with 2G tracking force. VM built changer. Zenith had a better than average tuner and good amplfier and speakers. The early SS era, this being the beginnings was rather problem prone. Fisher was a bit conservative. And made to their usual standards. Zenith had the best ceramic equipped changer and extremely gentle on records. The Masterworks is the really interesting sleeper here. They got very well rated. And could track lighter than rated with a stylus change then. Appears too that that changer can be easily upgraded in the cartridge department too. And a console I'd love to see and hear a good example of.
Glad to have found this Fisher console resource and open this thread up again with the Executive VII from '62. Here are some pictures -- just got it today haven't dusted if off yet or cleaned it. R2R isn't working yet or the Garrard (could be in the fuse on the tuner power source?) But the Tuner is in fantastic condition and sounds incredible through the speakers. Plugged in my other TT for now and love the sound.
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GREAT LOOKING EXECUTIVE VII! And with the R2R too!!!! I just noticed the legs are missing and casters installed. The legs are approx. 7" long and are angled out at the bottom.
Biggest problem with the Type "A", actually most Garrard's from that era is the lubricant has hardened and isn't lubricating will and the idler wheel has gotten hard and brittle. Best thing is to remove it and diss-assemble, clean off all the old lubricant and re-lube with 1 part sewing machine oil with 3 parts white lithium grease. SPARINGLY lubricate all the sliding parts (mark the lubed areas after cleaning), and oil the spindle with straight sewing machine oil.
Clean off the idler with HOT WATER and DAWN. Rinse with HOT WATER and Don't touch the rubber after this. Wipe with at least 91% isopropyl alcohol. Then clean the inside of the platter the same way. If it doesn't come back to spec, replace the idler with a rebuilt unit. (www.thevoiceofmusic.com) has them for about $25.00 with the old one for rebuild. Or Terry's Rubber Rollers can rebuild it for $45.00.
Does it have the optional Multiplex unit? If so it's probably a MPX-200.
www.fisherconsoles.com should have all the service manuals (except for the TT and R2R).
Again, Beautiful Modern Executive.
Larry
Biggest problem with the Type "A", actually most Garrard's from that era is the lubricant has hardened and isn't lubricating will and the idler wheel has gotten hard and brittle. Best thing is to remove it and diss-assemble, clean off all the old lubricant and re-lube with 1 part sewing machine oil with 3 parts white lithium grease. SPARINGLY lubricate all the sliding parts (mark the lubed areas after cleaning), and oil the spindle with straight sewing machine oil.
Clean off the idler with HOT WATER and DAWN. Rinse with HOT WATER and Don't touch the rubber after this. Wipe with at least 91% isopropyl alcohol. Then clean the inside of the platter the same way. If it doesn't come back to spec, replace the idler with a rebuilt unit. (www.thevoiceofmusic.com) has them for about $25.00 with the old one for rebuild. Or Terry's Rubber Rollers can rebuild it for $45.00.
Does it have the optional Multiplex unit? If so it's probably a MPX-200.
www.fisherconsoles.com should have all the service manuals (except for the TT and R2R).
Again, Beautiful Modern Executive.
Larry
Kind of a bummer about the angled legs, but I have to say that being able to roll this 200lbs beast to the side to work on it and just move it around if I need to is really a plus. I'm a huge fan of mid-century design and would have been happy without the casters, but my back would pay a toll.
Thanks for the cleaning tips on the Garrad. I will use that when I clean it this weekend. I'm surprised how well taken care of this particular unit was. Just needs a good dusting.
Oh, one of the small ext. speakers isn't working. Can anyone recommend a place to send it to for repair? It's small so it's easy to ship out.
Yes, it's has the multiplex
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WOW! Amazing how different the '62 is from the '61. I thought they used Ampex recorders starting in '62. That should be a 2 and 4-track r2r. The Garrard "A" is a good upgrade from the "88" series. They're not that difficult to get back in top shape. The dried grease is the biggest culprit with them. They come apart rather easily but can be a challenge to reassemble without lots of photos and the schematic.
Love the WS-1 speakers, too!
CONGRATULATIONS!
Love the WS-1 speakers, too!
CONGRATULATIONS!
Questions about curent worth are only permitted in the Dollars and Sense Forum.
Back in 1962 that unit NEW as equipped was $1595.00. That works out to about $12,303.52 in 2013 if it was built now using the original tooling and labor.
Back in 1962 that unit NEW as equipped was $1595.00. That works out to about $12,303.52 in 2013 if it was built now using the original tooling and labor.
Wow, incredible thread. Just to add a bit, have been into audio for a long time, but started looking at consoles as a 'neat' cabinet for the family room in a new home. Thought the internals might be scrapped and I'd put my newer solid state gear or a tubed integrated in.
Anyhow, a few weeks of cruising craigslist, and I see this 15 minutes from me... in a vaguely worded ad, a 1965 Fischer Electra VIII E-490. To my surprise when I show up with the pickup truck, darn near everything works. FM, turntable, speakers sound OK, but with a pretty good 60Hz hum that doesn't change with volume. Oh well, $100 later, it's home! Came with the original manual, good bit of paperwork and a pretty badly bent stylus!
Have been tearing into it for the past week, reading threads here, studying the schematic, etc. Haven't beat the hum yet (swapped 12AX7s in the preamp and amp for known good ones), but I believe it's the power supply. The preamp section hums even when driving another amplifier, in all positions. Have disconnected all inputs, etc. Saw one suggestion to disconnect phono which I haven't tried.
Amp/Power Supply section is already being torn into a bit, my Mouser order arrived with replacements for all the electrolytics (several were bulging, plus hopefully that will cure the hum).
Haven't put all data together, was the Miracord TT standard or an option?
Anyhow, a few weeks of cruising craigslist, and I see this 15 minutes from me... in a vaguely worded ad, a 1965 Fischer Electra VIII E-490. To my surprise when I show up with the pickup truck, darn near everything works. FM, turntable, speakers sound OK, but with a pretty good 60Hz hum that doesn't change with volume. Oh well, $100 later, it's home! Came with the original manual, good bit of paperwork and a pretty badly bent stylus!
Have been tearing into it for the past week, reading threads here, studying the schematic, etc. Haven't beat the hum yet (swapped 12AX7s in the preamp and amp for known good ones), but I believe it's the power supply. The preamp section hums even when driving another amplifier, in all positions. Have disconnected all inputs, etc. Saw one suggestion to disconnect phono which I haven't tried.
Amp/Power Supply section is already being torn into a bit, my Mouser order arrived with replacements for all the electrolytics (several were bulging, plus hopefully that will cure the hum).
Haven't put all data together, was the Miracord TT standard or an option?
Attachments
The miracord 10F (F for FISHER) was the standard turntable for most of the FISHER 1965 line up except for the Ambassador and the Executive which had Dual 1009's. Even the TOTL President had a Miracord.
Your's is identical to mine. Be very careful with the transistor's, as they are Germanium, rare as hen's teeth to replace and more expensive than your wife's shoe collection. Remove them CAREFULLY one at a time, clean off the old heatsink grease from the transistor, the mica insulator (don't bendit or it'll crack, then you'll need new one's), and the heatsink. Add NEW Heatsink compound (radioshack part # 276-1372A) very sparingly. You want an opaque layer on both sides of the mica.
It's a good unit. Hybrid sure, but it does a good job of filling the house with music. It's kind of rare compared to the full tube units (only made 2 years). And rather easy to rebuild.
Replace all of the CAN CAPS. Discrete caps can be done in the amp, but you'll have placement and space issues in the Tuner/preamp.
Look on the amp for 4 pots near the speaker outlets. If you see pot's, DO NOT TOUCH THEM under pain of death. These are the bias setting pots and have a very nasty tendency to go open, then the amp goes ballistic. If you have them replaced, get SEALED Units, and have them done in a shop and adjusted to the manual. If not, you either empty your wallet for 4 output transistors or have a very good looking doorstop!!!
However if you see chrome caps over the holes that means that FISHER did the temp compensating diode repair and you're good to go.
Not trying to scare you into not using it, just making you aware of some of the issues with the 49A/49T combo.
Mine (actually it's the wife's) was the 1st FISHER we bought. We've now got 7 FISHER's and a few others. Got to get rid of the others so have room for more FISHER's.
Good luck with it.
Larry
Your's is identical to mine. Be very careful with the transistor's, as they are Germanium, rare as hen's teeth to replace and more expensive than your wife's shoe collection. Remove them CAREFULLY one at a time, clean off the old heatsink grease from the transistor, the mica insulator (don't bendit or it'll crack, then you'll need new one's), and the heatsink. Add NEW Heatsink compound (radioshack part # 276-1372A) very sparingly. You want an opaque layer on both sides of the mica.
It's a good unit. Hybrid sure, but it does a good job of filling the house with music. It's kind of rare compared to the full tube units (only made 2 years). And rather easy to rebuild.
Replace all of the CAN CAPS. Discrete caps can be done in the amp, but you'll have placement and space issues in the Tuner/preamp.
Look on the amp for 4 pots near the speaker outlets. If you see pot's, DO NOT TOUCH THEM under pain of death. These are the bias setting pots and have a very nasty tendency to go open, then the amp goes ballistic. If you have them replaced, get SEALED Units, and have them done in a shop and adjusted to the manual. If not, you either empty your wallet for 4 output transistors or have a very good looking doorstop!!!
However if you see chrome caps over the holes that means that FISHER did the temp compensating diode repair and you're good to go.
Not trying to scare you into not using it, just making you aware of some of the issues with the 49A/49T combo.
Mine (actually it's the wife's) was the 1st FISHER we bought. We've now got 7 FISHER's and a few others. Got to get rid of the others so have room for more FISHER's.
Good luck with it.
Larry
Larry,
Very much appreciate the feedback on the troubleshooting steps, very cool that you own the twin of this unit! The transistor warning is ...well, necessary, I already took them out to inspect for silicone 'grease' as I think the manual calls it and found none. I've ordered similar heatsink/thermal compound to add in since these look like they could use all the help they can get to dissipate heat with the small heatsinks.
You had me laughing about the bias pots, mine fortunately appears to be upgraded or updated. I may replace the diodes in the circuit though, have had a few odd diode failures in the past years and they're cheap.
Just realized my location didn't show up on my first post, I'm just south of you and work up near Glen Burnie. Nice collection of gear, I guess I know who else will be trolling craigslist now that I'm starting to appreciate consoles...in addition to a dozen other hobbies. I started out looking for a Grundig console from the memories of my youth, and I'm not sure I have stopped looking. Where do you find the space??
I'm Hope to steal a few evenings this week to recap and then report back with something substantive. thanks again,
Dave
Very much appreciate the feedback on the troubleshooting steps, very cool that you own the twin of this unit! The transistor warning is ...well, necessary, I already took them out to inspect for silicone 'grease' as I think the manual calls it and found none. I've ordered similar heatsink/thermal compound to add in since these look like they could use all the help they can get to dissipate heat with the small heatsinks.
You had me laughing about the bias pots, mine fortunately appears to be upgraded or updated. I may replace the diodes in the circuit though, have had a few odd diode failures in the past years and they're cheap.
Just realized my location didn't show up on my first post, I'm just south of you and work up near Glen Burnie. Nice collection of gear, I guess I know who else will be trolling craigslist now that I'm starting to appreciate consoles...in addition to a dozen other hobbies. I started out looking for a Grundig console from the memories of my youth, and I'm not sure I have stopped looking. Where do you find the space??
I'm Hope to steal a few evenings this week to recap and then report back with something substantive. thanks again,
Dave
Those Diodes are even more rare than the germanium output's. They are a temperature compensating diode originally made by RCA (IIRC 1n2326 or something like that) about $30.00 each if you can find them. They either work or don't. If working leave them alone.
I've got 4 of the FISHER's upstairs, (1000sqft ranch) and all the rest of them in the basement. House is literally full. I haven't gotten a console in almost 2 years now. It's mainly receivers and turntables now.
If you need help with it, let me know thru PM.
Larry
I've got 4 of the FISHER's upstairs, (1000sqft ranch) and all the rest of them in the basement. House is literally full. I haven't gotten a console in almost 2 years now. It's mainly receivers and turntables now.
If you need help with it, let me know thru PM.
Larry
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