Fisher Model 674

[ccastleb]

Hello,

First, I am an audio newb, so keep that in mind as I may botch some terminology here and there. I am handy with tinkering on stuff and know how to properly use a soldering iron.

I recently bought a Fisher 674 (paid $40). It is in OK cosmetic condition, and it seems to work fine (AM/FM, Phono, and AUX all appear to work). I have it hooked to some mediocre Yamaha speakers (10-140 watt rating). I previously had a '97 Kenwood AV receiver hooked to the same speakers and I am blown away at how much BETTER this 41-year-old receiver sounds. I can barely get the volume up to 4 before it rocks the windows in my den.

I haven't torn her open yet, but I am planning on a moderate restoration. Some of the buttons are sticky, couple of bulbs are out, and the labels for some dials are worn off. SO....I have a few general questions since this is my FIRST vintage audio piece since the 1980s when my first receiver was then modern!

Are there specific resources out there for replacement parts (OEM or whatever)?

What should be the first important maintenance items I should consider? I don't know the history of this machine, so I have no clue if it was ever serviced, cleaned, repaired, etc.

Are there specific circuits that will likely need a refresh?

What have others here done about missing/worn labels on a receiver face? Live with it?

I have read that certain types of switches, buttons, and other controls require special cleaning chems other than deoxit. Is there a simple way to determine how to clean the controls for this 674 receiver without causing damage?

Any other 674 owners out there have words of wisdom to share?

Thanks for your attention!

- Chris

 

[Tinkerbelle]

Welcome to AK!

I had a Fisher 674 receiver some years back; it was a nice 2/4 channel unit that needed a little TLC and cleaning but provided some good music listening while I had it. I later passed it on for others to enjoy.

Here is a prior thread on this model: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=181095

 

[larryderouin]

Hello,

First, I am an audio newb, so keep that in mind as I may botch some terminology here and there. I am handy with tinkering on stuff and know how to properly use a soldering iron.

I recently bought a Fisher 674 (paid $40). It is in OK cosmetic condition, and it seems to work fine (AM/FM, Phono, and AUX all appear to work). I have it hooked to some mediocre Yamaha speakers (10-140 watt rating). I previously had a '97 Kenwood AV receiver hooked to the same speakers and I am blown away at how much BETTER this 41-year-old receiver sounds. I can barely get the volume up to 4 before it rocks the windows in my den.

I haven't torn her open yet, but I am planning on a moderate restoration. Some of the buttons are sticky, couple of bulbs are out, and the labels for some dials are worn off. SO....I have a few general questions since this is my FIRST vintage audio piece since the 1980s when my first receiver was then modern!

Are there specific resources out there for replacement parts (OEM or whatever)?

OEM? No. Aftermarket capacitors, resistors, transistors will have to be researched and suitable replacements located either thru Mouser, Digikey, or other electronic sources. Capacitors and resistors aren't hard. Transistors will take some time and digging. 1st thing to get is a GOOD CLEAR COPY of the Service manual. Pay for it. www.stereomanuals.com should have either a Repro or original. His Repro's are generally as good or better in most respects than the originals.
NOTE: He has the 674 manual. It's covered in the 4020 manual. Link here.... http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/fisher/fisher_manuals_800_xx.htm Then scroll down to 4020.

What should be the first important maintenance items I should consider? I don't know the history of this machine, so I have no clue if it was ever serviced, cleaned, repaired, etc.

Are there specific circuits that will likely need a refresh?

Power Supply 1st. Then the signal path from the speaker connections to the inputs. Main Amp, Control Board, Head amp (preamp). These are the most stressed circuits on it. Do these 1st to bring it back up to snuff. I wouldn't mess with the 4 channel circuits right now. And stay away from the tuner boards.

What have others here done about missing/worn labels on a receiver face? Live with it?

There are dry transfer decal lettering sheets at Hobby Shops. However the font's aren't the same as original. If you want to get fancy, diagram the whole thing with all lettering spelled out, and have it silkscreened and clear coated. (EXPENSIVE!!!) If it's not too bad , I'd live with it.

I have read that certain types of switches, buttons, and other controls require special cleaning chems other than deoxit. Is there a simple way to determine how to clean the controls for this 674 receiver without causing damage?

Generally If it goes in/out, up/down or Round and round use DeOxit (D-5) followed up with DeOxit GOLD (G-5). The G-5 is a protectant and lubricant that replaces the old hardened lube that is flushed out with the D-5. For SLIDER's use DeOxit FADERLUBE (F-5) folllowed up with Gold (G-5). There is one thing you can do with the Tuner. Clean the Variable capacitor (Tuning cap) with a NON-RESIDUE Electronics Cleaner. It MUST be non residue or else the tuning will be off, a lot. The Tuning cap is the big finned thing that rotates as you turn the tuning knob. Spray it liberally with CRC QD ELECTRONICS CONTACT CLEANER. Let dry for about
36-48 hours afterward. The Tuning cap is a air gap capacitor and any dust, dirt, foreign matter on the fins will affect tuning.

Any other 674 owners out there have words of wisdom to share?

Thanks for your attention!

- Chris

 

[ccastleb]

OEM? No. Aftermarket capacitors, resistors, transistors will have to be researched and suitable replacements located either thru Mouser, Digikey, or other electronic sources. Capacitors and resistors aren't hard. Transistors will take some time and digging. 1st thing to get is a GOOD CLEAR COPY of the Service manual. Pay for it. www.stereomanuals.com should have either a Repro or original. His Repro's are generally as good or better in most respects than the originals.
NOTE: He has the 674 manual. It's covered in the 4020 manual. Link here.... http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/fisher/fisher_manuals_800_xx.htm Then scroll down to 4020.

Power Supply 1st. Then the signal path from the speaker connections to the inputs. Main Amp, Control Board, Head amp (preamp). These are the most stressed circuits on it. Do these 1st to bring it back up to snuff. I wouldn't mess with the 4 channel circuits right now. And stay away from the tuner boards. There are dry transfer decal lettering sheets at Hobby Shops. However the font's aren't the same as original. If you want to get fancy, diagram the whole thing with all lettering spelled out, and have it silkscreened and clear coated. (EXPENSIVE!!!) If it's not too bad , I'd live with it.

Generally If it goes in/out, up/down or Round and round use DeOxit (D-5) followed up with DeOxit GOLD (G-5). The G-5 is a protectant and lubricant that replaces the old hardened lube that is flushed out with the D-5. For SLIDER's use DeOxit FADERLUBE (F-5) folllowed up with Gold (G-5). There is one thing you can do with the Tuner. Clean the Variable capacitor (Tuning cap) with a NON-RESIDUE Electronics Cleaner. It MUST be non residue or else the tuning will be off, a lot. The Tuning cap is the big finned thing that rotates as you turn the tuning knob. Spray it liberally with CRC QD ELECTRONICS CONTACT CLEANER. Let dry for about
36-48 hours afterward. The Tuning cap is a air gap capacitor and any dust, dirt, foreign matter on the fins will affect tuning.

Thanks for the information!

 

[larryderouin]

One addition. If it's working now, the transistors are fine. Leave them alone. Just do the Electrolytic capacitors (can type), and check the resistors by lifting one side to get it out of circuit. 10% variance (silver stripe) or 5% Gold stripe on end of resistor. Any more than the variance replace.

 

[ccastleb]

One addition. If it's working now, the transistors are fine. Leave them alone. Just do the Electrolytic capacitors (can type), and check the resistors by lifting one side to get it out of circuit. 10% variance (silver stripe) or 5% Gold stripe on end of resistor. Any more than the variance replace.

Yes, it works. I think replacing the electrolytic caps is a good place for me to start. I have the service manual now so I can hunt down the equivalent parts.

Thanks!