Fisher R-592 Stereo Console with 31-R Chassis, Phono button no power

[Stereohere]

I got this vintage console. It was working when I tested at seller's place. But after I move it home. That phono input selector button has no power send to the turntable, but the AUX/FM/AM button could send power to turntable.
It's wired. Do I miss something or wire discounted? I see the Record Changer power wire is lose. Not sure it's that one cause the problem or something inside the chassis.
So frustrated, I have no music for Christmas...
Help please....

 

[biscuithead]

What powers on? Does the tuner power on?
The input selector probably does not have anything to do with powering the phono on.

Can you troubleshoot electronics?

It is time to talk to a nearby tech.

 

[Stereohere]

What powers on? Does the tuner power on?
The input selector probably does not have anything to do with powering the phono on.

Can you troubleshoot electronics?

It is time to talk to a nearby tech.

Yes, it powers on, FM/AM/AUX all has power and sounds, and the turntable has power and turns, it just no sound. But once I press the phono button, the turntable has no power, won't move.
Troubleshot? How?

Any nearby tech recommend in San Francisco?

Thanks

 

[biscuithead]

Ok.
So if you are on AUX... and you turn the turntable to on, and the turntable is turning, then you push the input selector to phono, the turntable stops...?

This unit might have an interconnect (relay) that turns the power off when the turntable is turned off (or the record runs out). So, if the turntable tone-arm is extended all the way to the center spindle, it will "trick" the unit into shutting off.

 

[Stereohere]

Ok.
So if you are on AUX... and you turn the turntable to on, and the turntable is turning, then you push the input selector to phono, the turntable stops...?

This unit might have an interconnect (relay) that turns the power off when the turntable is turned off (or the record runs out). So, if the turntable tone-arm is extended all the way to the center spindle, it will "trick" the unit into shutting off.

.......Yes, it stops turning after I push the phono.
But it was testing OK though.

 

[biscuithead]

I get the impression that you have a limited understanding of how this unit works. This is not a criticism. I respect your passion and interest in this item, but vintage electronics require a certain minimum of electronic and mechanical aptitude.

When I google " San Francisco Electronic Repair " I get about 20 hits.... I would suggest you call a few and tell them your situation.

.......Yes, it stops turning after I push the phono.
But it was testing OK though.

Sometimes transporting an old item is all it takes to spur on a failure.

The simple stuff to try is this :
Make sure the tone arm is in the resting position before you switch it to phono.
Can you unplug the turntable power, and plug in a different turntable into the phono input (audio) and get sound?

Here is the Service manual for this unit : http://www.fisherconsoles.com/service manuals/fisher 31r sm.pdf
I found that there is 4 wires going to the turntable power, that usually means that there is an automatic turn off feature on this model. This means that the unit should turn off when the phono is selected but the phono is not on, or upon automatic function of the turntable. So, there is probably something going on there that needs to be delved into.

I can't find an Operating manual right now to confirm this inclination, but it should get you on the right track.


That is a wonderful 1967 Fisher Regent R-592 console you have there, The Dual 1014 is a great turntable. Did it come with a Reel 2 reel player also?

 

[larryderouin]

Unfortunately we don't have any schematics for the 31-R. Based on slightly newer FISHER SOLID STATE units there may be an extended shaft on the selector switch to turn on the phono/unit in phono only and shut the unit off when it's done with all records. Having said that and having taken another look at the controls, the phono selector is a push-button similar to those in the '65-'66 FUTURA/Ambassador. Check in the phonograph compartment for a off/on switch for AUTO OFF. If so make sure the switch is set to off. Then get in the back and unplug the unit.

With the unit unplugged, pull and reinsert a few times all plugs (molex type) from the chassis including the RCA's into the phono jacks. If you have any DeOxit D-5 use it on the metal contacts. If not get some from a local GUITAR CENTER ASK FOR DeOxit D-5 (it may say DNS also).

Make sure all connections are tight and correct. Plug it in and test. If this doesn't work, it's easiest to remove the chassis and the Record changer and then take them to a shop. Most shops will tell you DO NOT BRING IN THE WHOLE CONSOLE. Just the guts.

 

[larryderouin]

Another thing. Those push buttons are very tempermental unless clean as a whistle. They are a real pain to disconnect and take apart too. If you aren't comfortable taking them apart, spray them with DeOxit D-5 and let them sit overnight so the D-5 soaks into the environmental sludge. Then give it another shot and cycle each one 40-50 times. Do all of them. Then spray them with either DeOxit FADERLUBE (F-5) or CRC 626 Electrical lubricant (a lot cheaper than F-5 and available at Home Depot). Always follow up a final D-5 spraying with Faderlube or the CRC as the D-5 washes out the old gummed up crud and original lubricant, a lack there of can gouge the carbon track like no oil pressure in an engine can score main and rod bearings. NOT GOOD!!!

After cleaning let it dry for an hour or so and power it up. If it now plays good. If Not, Then a shop visit is in the works. DE-Oxit is like Bryl-Cream. A little Dab'll do ya. Don't flood the switch or pot. A 1 second burst is more than enough. Learn to meter the DeOxit out of the nozzle.