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Fisher RS-2010 with no sound

B

BigTuna117

New Member
Hello! Earlier today my beloved RS-2010 seems to have burnt something up? I was listening to music, and the audio fizzled away. I tried turning 'er off and back on again, to no avail. She lights up, and the tuner works, there is no *click* of the amplifier itself powering on. Searching the internet for answers led me here, and I found a few other RS-2010's that had issues, I read those threads, crack the case open, and started looking for the "common" trouble parts. Which is perhaps, where this gets interesting.

I cracked the top case open to find everything still pristine, no bulging caps, or burn marks anywhere. So I continued by flipping the unit over and removing the bottom cover. Everything still looked pristine. all of the pots had been dexoed, and work very well.
But then, I found a burnt resistor on the panel with all the SLO-BLO fuses ( Is this the Power Amp, Power Supply or some other board?). It, and two of the Capacitors look to have some of this (is it scorching?) on them.

Overall, this unit is what you'd call "low miles." It was my grandparents' before it was mine, and they didn't seem to use it very much- I saw them use it MAYBE four times in 15 years. Most of it's life has been in my setup, used daily. I've had it, and used it frequently for the last 5 (almost 6) years. I'd like to at least try fixing it before I send it out to pasture. This thing should have YEARS of life left in it. Even the thermal paste between the powerpacks and their heatsinks is still good!

So I guess the question is: would this cause the amp to not click on? Would it better to replace the board, or just the fried components?

Any further questions or pictures required, I'll happily provide.20160301_144753.jpg 20160301_150148.jpg 20160301_150240.jpg TopFisher.jpg
 
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It's the power supply board. Can you take a close up of the problem area and circle the offending parts, as I don't apparently see what you do.

I would fix it 1st then do a recap on it. Pretty much everything on the board is replaceable with common of the shelf parts. HIFIENGINE has the Service manual for the RS-2010.
 
I actually Just grabbed and printed the Service Manual out. HIFIENGINE is a gem. I also used them to grab the Service manual for my Technics SL-5 a while back to take it apart & Clean it.

I apologise if my pictures aren't centered. It is difficult to get a centered photo on the Note 4. haha

20160301_150148.jpg 20160301_1501481.jpg
 
I believe that to be our problem area. It is the only spot on the board (or on any of the boards for that matter) that looks discolored or burnt.
 
That's assembly glue. The boards by that time were what's called wave soldered. All the parts were put on the board, Some of the larger parts had glue and they were run across a small tank of liquified solder that had a wave machine making waves which actually touched the bottom of the boards, long enough to solder all the parts to the board on the traces.

I'm an analog neanderthal. What's a Note 4???
 
What about the blackened area on and below the resistor at R06? and the burn on the green capacitor at C02? The yellow glue is everywhere, I assumed it was some sort of assembly glue.
RWpGKWC.jpg



Oh, and the Note 4, is the Samsung Galaxy Note 4. My Phone!
 
It could be a fault, but it also looks like the glue is somewhat corrosive, not to the extent as the glue on Sansui products of the day that I have worked on in the past. Test and Replace R6 and C2, and scrape the glue from the areas as best you can before installing the new parts. Can't say that this is the problem and it quite possibly may not be. However the only real way to find out is to do voltage and resistance checks on the circuits. Start with the power supply voltages per the schematic and repair as necessary. If you don't have the tools or the experience, I would strongly suggest having a shop do the repairs. This receiver is more of a "Intermediate" to "ADVANCED" level repair job.
 
Ok. Given that I wouldn't consider myself to be anywhere near to an "expert" level, I'll see if there are any repair shops in the area. I do appreciate the help!
I live between 2 major cities (Phoenix AZ and Las Vegas NV) So I'll see if there are any reputable shops in either.
 
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