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Fisher X-101-D user manual

Hi guys.
I have a Fisher X-101-C and X101-D. I do have service manuals for both, but only the user manual for the 101-C version.
While the guts a basically the same on both amps, the faceplate is completely different.
In the user manual for the 101-C are instructions for selecting the center speaker out (X and Y lugs).
On the 101-D there is a selector for MONO - STEREO - REVERSE mode. Any ideas on how to select the center channel on this one?
Also, a link to the user manual for the X101D model would be very nice...
 
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Oh well I tried, maybe have a Moderator move this thread to the dedicated Fisher section here at AK.

A lot of old school Fisher enthusiasts who should be able to assist with your center channel query.


Just click on the blue "Report" link and then type a quick message to ask them to move it for you
 
I don't think there is a way to "select" the center channel on either model. The X and Y connections are where to connect the center channel speaker, but mono, stereo and reverse uses all channels regardless, it just affects what signal is sent to each output. Are there X and Y connections on the D?
 
Yes there are. On the same position as the X101C.
Since I'm restoring an X101C... My customer gave me a kit sold by Captain Fantastic. It comes with film coupling caps, electrolytics, silicon diodes and an inrush thermistor.
If you look at the manual, there is a 20uf cap (part of 3 caps in one aluminum can) in the power supply that provides 180VDC to V1 and V2 (preamp stage). After replacing it with the new cap supplied in the kit (22uf 300V), I suddenly get 450V.
I opted not to touch the original the original can caps 'cause it's a nightmare to get the out of the chassis without compromising its integrity. Instead, I chose to put them under the original caps, cutting off the old terminals and by doing so making just enough space for the new ones to fit. Some of the new caps did not fit in there and I had to locate it elsewhere under the chassis.
I rerouted the original wires to the corresponding caps.

Any idea what I could have done wrong?
 
Are you measuring that with the power tubes installed? Sounds like there's no draw on the power supply. To get 450V before that cap you would need that much or more, which would suggest no current draw.
 
I'm measuring this with no power tubes installed. But the strange thing is that I have an X101D model just beside the X101C, also with no power tubes installed and it gives more or less the correct voltage. Also, this 22uf cap goes directly to V1 and V2.
 
R79 through R82 are voltage dropping resistors. If there is no current drawn, they will not drop any voltage. The 22uF cap is the last decoupling capacitor, but the voltage supply for that comes from the power tube plates and driver tube supplies before that, and so it is dependent on the other voltages.

I'm not sure how you could be getting 180V at the 22uF cap in the X-101-C with no tubes installed, but the bottom line is check your voltages at each point in the power supply, if it's not dropping it's because no current is being drawn. Tubes are required to draw the current. 450V sounds like a reasonable no load output for the power supply.

If you look at the voltages at each of the power supply nodes (C26B, C27A-C) that will tell you what's going on there. My guess is that they will all measure around 450V because no current is being drawn, where in your X-101-C there must be tubes drawing current if the voltage is dropping.
 
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I'm not sure how you could be getting 180V at the 22uF cap in the X-101-C with no tubes installed, but the bottom line is check your voltages at each point in the power supply, if it's not dropping it's because no current is being drawn. Tubes are required to draw the current. 450V sounds like a reasonable no load output for the power supply.
I was getting about 180V on the X101D, not the X101C model. They have basically the same internal circuit (at least they look very similar), the voltages on the power supply are slightly lower on the D. Tomorrow I'll have another look.
 
Hello again, guys.
I finally got the X101C running all right. Voltages are ok, everything looks ok. Now my customer wants me to also replace the original PC50187-9 tone control cards with modern ICs. I did this before on a 500B. On the X101C it looks quite challenging...
By the way: is it normal for the X101C to take aprox. 25 secs (I counted the time...) to warm up and sound to come out from the speakers?
 
Absolutely. Your question also relates back to your previous issue of voltage measurements at the preamp tubes being too high. In a nutshell, it is impossible to get correct voltage readings almost anywhere in either of these two amplifiers with the output tubes removed -- not only for the reason that Selmerdave indicated, but for even greater reasons with these amplifiers.

Since the output tubes draw over 90% of the total current drawn by the amplifier, it is a foregone conclusion then that with them removed, the overall voltages will be higher as previously stated (basically, no current draw). But in the X-101C and X-101D (and other Fisher amplifiers), the heaters of the four 12AX7 tubes comprising the phono preamp and line stage functions are powered by current draw passing through the output stages. Therefore, if the output tubes are removed, then the heaters of these four 12AX7 tubes will not light at all -- meaning that it is impossible for any of these four tubes to draw any current at all.

With these amplifiers then, not only will the overall voltages be higher with output tubes removed beause of their lack of current draw, but voltages on the earlier stage will also be very high, since their heaters are not even lit up in that scenario. With the output tubes removed, the only tubes that can draw any current in that scenario in either of these amplifiers is the driver tubes, since their heaters are powered by the heater winding in the power transformer.

As to your latest question then, the reason for the extended warmup time is because with the application of power, the output tubes must first start conducting current -- which takes time -- after which only then will the phono preamp and line stage tubes start receiving power to light their heaters. Their warmup time then adds to the warmup time for the output tubes (time events adding in series in this case) -- which itself is further extended because the heaters of these tubes (all connected in series) only operate on about 10 volts each on average (instead of their as connected rating of 12.6 volts), which extends the warmup time for these tubes significantly beyond that when receiving full rated heater voltage.

For these amplifiers -- which use SS power supplies -- at least the warm up time is only about 25 seconds as you measured. For some of Fisher's earlier integrated amplifiers that used a slow warming GZ34 rectifier tube, first it had to warm up, then the output tubes would start conducting, and only then would the preamp and line stage tubes start to warm up. The warm up time for the original X-101 that used this configuration (but only for the phono preamp tubes) was more typically about 40-45 seconds when the phono inputs were selected. I grew up with this amplifier in our house. Having patience during warmup was the order of the day if wanting to listen to a record.

The idea of operating the heaters of the early preamp tubes from current draw passing through the output stages is an economical way to power those heaters from a DC power source, which is but one of the reasons that Fisher amplifiers in general are very quiet designs, having very little inherent hum or noise versus those designs that use AC voltage to power the heaters of their early stages.

I hope this helps!

Dave
 
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My TA-600 takes a bit to get going for the reasons above. 5AR4, and the output tubes run the phono stage heaters.

One other advantage to using the tube heaters as a cathode resistor is the heat from the cathode resistor isn't below the chassis. Its up top where it won't bake parts to death.

There is a modification to that circuit which @dcgillespie devised which both improves performance and reduces output tube current that you may want to consider having a peek at.


I did this on my TA-600 and it made a nice improvement for minimal effort.
 
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