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Fisher XP-7C Recap

S

Starquest

Super Member
Because I cannot leave well enough alone, and because the sound from these Fisher XP-7C speakers isn't as good as I'd hoped (and because, let's face it, I'm bored), I'm setting about to recap them. I took a bunch of pictures and disconnected seven wires from the crossover, then pried the crossover out of the cabinet:

S1kEJn0h.jpg


As you can see, there are four capacitors:

- 50V 50uf
- 50V 8uf
- 25V 16uf
- 25V 4uf

Here are their photos. Does anyone see anything out of the ordinary here?

OvPcatJh.jpg

w6VXGzLh.jpg


cAjXRPdh.jpg


Parts Xpress has three of the four in exact capacitance. They don't have a 16uF cap; they only have 15 and 17. Which should I get? Also, all of theirs are 100V. No choice there; my unedumacated guess is that 100V is fine.

Looking for opinions on any of this. Thanks!
 
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Also the 15 or 17 uF is fine too.

I had a thread on the 7B's and created a diagram of the cross-over. Your's looks similar but I have no way of verifying. Here is the link.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....tore-need-x-over-diagram.722323/#post-9772739

Those capacitors with the red end caps are known to fail. You would do good to replace them.

Note that the Fisher 7's aren't known for being the best sounding speakers, but they are historic and the cabinets are some of the best available. They aren't bad though. Just not TOTL when compared to AR, KLH, etc.
 
You can also put together a couple 8uf's to get that 16 value.
The coils could be better spaced apart. and positioned in different orientation to each other.
 
Please let us know how this turns out performance wise. I have a pair of those in flawless condition in a storage unit somewhere.
 
macyjrm said:
Please let us know how this turns out performance wise. I have a pair of those in flawless condition in a storage unit somewhere.
Click to expand...

Will do. I just ordered the parts (I opted for the 15uF caps). Not sure when I'll get to the job. My soldering skills are rudimentary to say the least, though this particular job doesn't look too challenging.
 
The cross-over board for the Fisher XP-7B (and I presume the XP-7C) is laid out nicely with point-to-point connections. I wish they still made cross-overs this way. Fact is, this is the only one I've seen with this kind of point-to-point board. It is a good beginner cross-over to work on. Just take pictures before you start removing parts so you know where to put the new parts. You'll do a terrific job.

One small challenge I had was that the size of the new caps was significantly bigger than the originals. I had to get creative and glue the biggest one standing up.

I'd be interested to know if the XP-7B diagram in my thread matches the XP-7C too.
 
@macyjrm @TimD

Guys, I just finishing recapping one speaker. I'm listening to both now for comparison. There's been a pretty big improvement -- more than I would have thought. Frankly I'm surprised it works at all given that my soldering skills are **** :no:

Highs are much better, bass is better controlled, the vocals are clearer. Flipping the balance between the two speakers shows a big difference. The one with original caps is just not as clear, it's almost a bit muddy in comparison. It sounds like an old speaker. The recapped speaker just has better presence, better sound, MORE sound. Much better! :rockon: Not sure when I'll get to the other speaker, but now I have more motivation to do it!

Forgot to mention -- I just went with the dirt cheap Parts Express capacitors. As far as I can tell, 50 microfarads is 50 microfarads :)
 
Hi Starquest,

So did you use the Dayton 5% caps from PE? That's what I've been mostly using for my projects.
 
Tim D said:
Hi Starquest,

So did you use the Dayton 5% caps from PE? That's what I've been mostly using for my projects.
Click to expand...

Just the plain jane black generic capacitors. The cheapest part on their site.

Frankly, the comparison between the unrestored and restored speaker is not even fair. My wife helped me with the soldering. After listening to them, she said of the unrestored speaker: "if dust had a sound, that's what it would sound like." That's pretty accurate. It sounds old and dusty. The new one is much livelier.

Sounds like you didn't get the same results with your 7B (from taking a look at your thread)?
 
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Those old black/red had to be replaced. Have seen pics of those caps exploding. The first cap shown looks to be splitting. The second cap looks real bad on that lead. The third cap looks real bad lead bending just asking for trouble. The grey cap voltage is half (25vdc) of the other caps (50vdc). Glad it sounds as good as it does after the recap. Enjoy.
 
NAD80 said:
Those old black/red had to be replaced. Have seen pics of those caps exploding. The first cap shown looks to be splitting. The second cap looks real bad on that lead. The third cap looks real bad lead bending just asking for trouble. The grey cap voltage is half (25vdc) of the other caps (50vdc). Glad it sounds as good as it does after the recap. Enjoy.
Click to expand...

Actually all the caps were in good physical condition. I don't have a device to measure their capacitance or ESR though.

But these speakers sat in a garage here in MN for an unknown length of time. Below-zero temps probably aren't good for caps that are already 45 years old. One of the speakers sat outside for at least a few days before I found them, and I think it even got rained on once :D Vintage gear is tough!
 
Thanks Starquest. I'll get around to doing mine someday. Way too many other projects competing right now. Glad those Fishers are starting to sound as good as they look.
 
Tim D said:
Also the 15 or 17 uF is fine too.

I had a thread on the 7B's and created a diagram of the cross-over. Your's looks similar but I have no way of verifying. Here is the link.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index....tore-need-x-over-diagram.722323/#post-9772739

Those capacitors with the red end caps are known to fail. You would do good to replace them.

Note that the Fisher 7's aren't known for being the best sounding speakers, but they are historic and the cabinets are some of the best available. They aren't bad though. Just not TOTL when compared to AR, KLH, etc.
Click to expand...
A speaker is only as good as the gear you use to drive it .I have my 7B's hooked up to Adcoms 555 amp and pre amp connected with MIT cables and interconnects and they sound just as good(maybe better) than comparable AR's or KLH's.Just sayin
 
High current said:
A speaker is only as good as the gear you use to drive it .I have my 7B's hooked up to Adcoms 555 amp and pre amp connected with MIT cables and interconnects and they sound just as good(maybe better) than comparable AR's or KLH's.Just sayin
Click to expand...

I can't dispute what you are saying as speaker comparisons are very subjective. You are always the best judge of what sounds best to you. What is important is that you like what you hear and are happy.

Personally, I do like the way my Fisher 7B's look, but for me sonically they are way down my list of favorites. I've got about 25 pairs of speakers at the moment (trying to downsize, but that's another topic). In my preference order in my stable are:

1. KLH Sixes (Sound great. These are my daily drivers)
2. Polk 7B's
3. AR-4X's (Actually belongs to my daughter. I restored and gave them as a gift)
4. KLH 17's (Actually belongs to my son. I restored and gave them as a gift)
5. Technics SB-6060 <These are real sleepers and are only down this far because they are generally not well known.>
6. OLA's
.
<Somewhere down the list are my Fisher XP-7B's>

I have several unrestored speakers in my queue that I can't rank until they are done and working correctly.

I'm keeping the Fisher 7B's because I also have several Fisher tube sets in the queue that I'm thinking to pair them with (maybe).
 
Hey you have a nice collection. But yea,take the time to sort those out and play around with some combinations,you might be pleasantly surprised as I was,paired with the right gear, I hear a righteous speaker
 
I think it was Fisher XP-7's I had for a very short time; the pair with two 5" mids and that orange soft dome tweeter. One of the worst sounding pairs of speakers I had years ago....even after re-capping. Beautiful cabinets and build, though. But dull and lifeless.
 
Clearly the OP got much better sound even using the inexpensive NP electrolytics from PE. I would have used film caps for at least the 4 and 8 uf, and maybe the 16 uf, depends on where it is in the circuit. The 50, NPE for sure due to size and cost. The 5% Dayton metallized polyprop are pretty reasonable at PE.
 
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