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Fixing a Sansui XR-Q7 - Game On

Homer4beer

Well-Known Member
While late night surfing on auction sites I type in a few turntable make and models (finding a NOS Kenwood KP-1100 in the process that sold for $1800 however I passes on it, too steep for me once duties and shipping accounted for) and stumbled across a Sansui XR-Q7 that said the following;

It does not rotate. There exterior scratches and dirt. junk.
If you're not clear about anything, please ask. Thank you.
Please judge in the image.


Having a good XR-Q7 and knowing that unless the tonearm assembly is functioning correctly the motor won't start I took a punt and placed a bid. I ended up winning it for the grand sum of Au $62 plus Au $280 for shipping.

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It arrived today packaged quite well except the muppets simply taped the platter down instead of removing it and packing separately. :rant: Sure enough it came off during shipping and damaged the black plastic cover under the platter which protects the motor.


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Anyway, I powered it up and the motor for the tonearm works, the belt is good, it returns the arm to the rest if I manually move it away and let go, however it will not lower the tonearm. There is an issue there so I'm hoping that I can take the tonearm apart and have a crack at fixing it. If I don't have any success at least I have some spare parts to keep my other two in operation :)

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Underneath the tonearm in all its glory.


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Here goes nothing! :D

Into the guts of the beast I go! :rolleyes:


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I have the same TT, but mine has the s-shaped tonearm.
Sound really nice, but I recommend you change the isolation feets. It sounds better if you have more distance between the plinth and the rack.
Good luck and enjoy!
 
I have the same TT, but mine has the s-shaped tonearm.
Sound really nice, but I recommend you change the isolation feets. It sounds better if you have more distance between the plinth and the rack.
Good luck and enjoy!

Thanks.

I can't find an S arm anywhere. My working table has the big chunky isolation feet on it :-)
 
Testing the LED's that detect the arm position finds fLD 1 to appear to not work. The other two light up when tested but this appears to have a an open cct. It's part number is tlr121. Going to be a bugger to find maybe?
 
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Interesting that the plinth is no more than a hollow box. I thought it would be more substantial. Good luck with the repairs!

All fixed now. I suppose the sync motor along with the platter (quite heavy aluminum) illuminates any possible vibrations so the massive heavy base becomes redundant.
 
All fixed now. I suppose the sync motor along with the platter (quite heavy aluminum) illuminates any possible vibrations so the massive heavy base becomes redundant.
Hi Homer4beer,
I'm new to the forum so hope I don't break many rules.
Glad you resurrected another Q7. I love mine! But mine stopped working recently.
Your issue sound exactly like mine. Can you be more specific as to where this LED is located?
Were you able to locate a replacement LED?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cheers
 
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