My 1400mk2 also has a broken cue lever. I got my shapeways steel bushing in the mail and disassembled the tonearm today. But, the replacement part does not fit as snuggly as I had anticipated. Did you find this to be the case as well?
Fixing cue mechanism in a Technics SL 1400 mk2
- Thread starter xingchoolin
- Start date
Whelp...I'm an idiot. I'll order the correct part. Glad to know it's still holding up for you.
A few questions for you: Did you find it necessary to trim the corner inside the ramp, as instructed? Did you end up applying new silicone oil for the damping? And did you have to sand out the hole that goes around the bushing to make it fit?
A few questions for you: Did you find it necessary to trim the corner inside the ramp, as instructed? Did you end up applying new silicone oil for the damping? And did you have to sand out the hole that goes around the bushing to make it fit?
xingchoolin
New Member
The part I got was so tight that I put some grease into it for the fear of breaking it when inserting the bushing.
Make sure you ordered the right one. Check the small details of the one in your tt with the 3D image in Shapeways' website.
xingchoolin
New Member
I didn't do anything to the part but putting some grease inside so the bushing would slide in with less effort.
I bought the silicone oil Boreas recommended for the damping. Now it works as it should.
Jerry Bokman
New Member
Have done the repair on a 1310mkII which had a steel bushing with the bump around its diameter for which the Shapeways part had the corresponding grove. I gently used some needle nose pliers to press the part onto bushing just pushing down 1-2 mm at a time then moving to opposite side so I wouldn't stress or damage part. I used 500000 cst weight lube for lift assembly. Everything moves properly during reassembly. (2x) 2nd time was with proper lube. First time with thin lube arm dropped like a brick but also stuck at top, glad I had the stylus guard on without a record.
2nd time with proper lube after 2-3 times working properly pressing stop (button) and arm lift mechanism returning to lowered position. once raised the arm will not drop until you lightly touch it, then arm descends properly onto record. So seems something is sticking making me inquire on whether I should notch a part? Don't think it is fluid as once moving it drops at same rate as my Rega. Just seems to hang at top (have tried the screw on arm lift assembly and ensure height was correct) moving the screw up or down affected muting switch so left adjusted as service manual suggests. Ideas? (yes spring is present and clean).
Start and Stop work but auto return is not functioning, I have tried turning table counter clockwise to reset (thought I heard a sound so was very hopeful) and making adjustments per service manual to no affect (start adjustments work fine). So suspect something is not aligned. (it worked before disassembly tested with no record and stylus guard on cartridge, wouldn't raise but would drag across mat.) Yes I have auto return turned on and have tested with off as well. Return doesn't engage even with screw fully clockwise (tried counter clockwise too) and arm over label, doesn't click either which I believe it did before disassembly.
Someone said something about proper alignment over optical sensor and can see some tests that can be done with an oscilloscope but wonder if I have misaligned something.
This TT was definitely disassembled prior to me purchasing so my own photos might not be helpful. Have looked at other threads and sorted most of it out. Left with these two problems...
Any suggestions?
I have a digital scale and can confirm that cart weight is correctly set. (I also tested scale with 1 gram weight and 2 gram weight).
The difference between 1300 mk2 and 1310 mk2 is simply color mine is dark not silver.
2nd time with proper lube after 2-3 times working properly pressing stop (button) and arm lift mechanism returning to lowered position. once raised the arm will not drop until you lightly touch it, then arm descends properly onto record. So seems something is sticking making me inquire on whether I should notch a part? Don't think it is fluid as once moving it drops at same rate as my Rega. Just seems to hang at top (have tried the screw on arm lift assembly and ensure height was correct) moving the screw up or down affected muting switch so left adjusted as service manual suggests. Ideas? (yes spring is present and clean).
Start and Stop work but auto return is not functioning, I have tried turning table counter clockwise to reset (thought I heard a sound so was very hopeful) and making adjustments per service manual to no affect (start adjustments work fine). So suspect something is not aligned. (it worked before disassembly tested with no record and stylus guard on cartridge, wouldn't raise but would drag across mat.) Yes I have auto return turned on and have tested with off as well. Return doesn't engage even with screw fully clockwise (tried counter clockwise too) and arm over label, doesn't click either which I believe it did before disassembly.
Someone said something about proper alignment over optical sensor and can see some tests that can be done with an oscilloscope but wonder if I have misaligned something.
This TT was definitely disassembled prior to me purchasing so my own photos might not be helpful. Have looked at other threads and sorted most of it out. Left with these two problems...
Any suggestions?
I have a digital scale and can confirm that cart weight is correctly set. (I also tested scale with 1 gram weight and 2 gram weight).
The difference between 1300 mk2 and 1310 mk2 is simply color mine is dark not silver.
cmarti
Well-Known Member
I once had an SL-1401 which the auto return all of the sudden stopped working, the mechanism is all mechanical, not electronic and the issue was dried up factory lubricant. I cleaned and lubed and it went back to function back as new. I also repaired the cue mechanisms of my SL-1300 MKII and did not buy the 3D printed part, just used cotton and hobby grade glue and it's been working as good as new 
Jerry Bokman
New Member
Both problems resolved third time was a charm.
The Shapeway part was out of alignment by 1-2mm. When comparing the bottom of shapeways part to the plate the bushing was mounted to. Used a jeweler's screwdriver just to click into place.
For this step it is important that everything lines up before reattaching tonearm assembly. So when you cue up with lever the tonearm should rise and when you cue down the tonearm should drop by itself at a reasonable rate. Just holding in your hand like it would attach to turntable. If not try again ensuring alignment and movement before putting back together. For the lube it is important to use 500000cst for the cueing arm. Dip part into bottle of lube then take off excess with old credit card. Looking at it with magnifying glass to ensure the three divots are full of lube.
For the auto return problem the PCB containing optical sensor one screw needed 1/4 turn and or the alignment of above part and everything worked when put back together. I also compared E-Clip on base of auto return screw compared to others pictures and markings on base. Looked like it was about 90-100 degrees off probably from me trying two extremes.
Cheers
Nice way to start New Year with a fully functional turntable. (the shipping screws had never been taking out either) So if you have three big blue screws under the turntable (heads almost an inch in diameter) don't put them back in...unless moving TT.
This would be similar for SL1300 / 1310 mkII SL1400 / 1410 mkII and SL1500 / 1510 mkII and maybe more TT. As mentioned about the 10 denotes color only.
The Shapeway part was out of alignment by 1-2mm. When comparing the bottom of shapeways part to the plate the bushing was mounted to. Used a jeweler's screwdriver just to click into place.
For this step it is important that everything lines up before reattaching tonearm assembly. So when you cue up with lever the tonearm should rise and when you cue down the tonearm should drop by itself at a reasonable rate. Just holding in your hand like it would attach to turntable. If not try again ensuring alignment and movement before putting back together. For the lube it is important to use 500000cst for the cueing arm. Dip part into bottle of lube then take off excess with old credit card. Looking at it with magnifying glass to ensure the three divots are full of lube.
For the auto return problem the PCB containing optical sensor one screw needed 1/4 turn and or the alignment of above part and everything worked when put back together. I also compared E-Clip on base of auto return screw compared to others pictures and markings on base. Looked like it was about 90-100 degrees off probably from me trying two extremes.
Cheers
Nice way to start New Year with a fully functional turntable. (the shipping screws had never been taking out either) So if you have three big blue screws under the turntable (heads almost an inch in diameter) don't put them back in...unless moving TT.
This would be similar for SL1300 / 1310 mkII SL1400 / 1410 mkII and SL1500 / 1510 mkII and maybe more TT. As mentioned about the 10 denotes color only.
This adjustment is available, on top near the arm, without disassembling Tt? Where can I find instructions on setting up the return Arm.
bastardbus
Member
I disagree with using the 300K grease it is too thin and on my dual, BIC and Technics turntables it was too thin and dropped to fast and hard. The proper weight is 500K. I wound up redoing all my turntables and they all work flawlessly with 500K