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Fixing Dual 1010, idler wheel

W

wr1944

New Member
When I moved to the USA, I brought my Dual 1010 TT with me. It was dual voltage so I could run it on 120V. But with 60Hz, it went too fast. So I had to order a motor for 120V/60Hz. Through eBay, that was easy. Then the next problem, a rock hard idler wheel. I tried to sand the wheel but it kept rumbling.
My question is: how to get a new idler wheel. Are there still wheels around or do I have to send the old wheel in to have it re-rubbered?
 
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wr1944 said:
When I moved to the USA, I brought my Dual 1010 TT with me. It was dual voltage so I could run it on 120V. But with 60Hz, it went too fast. So I had to order a motor for 120V/60Hz. Through eBay, that was easy. Then the next problem, a rock hard idler wheel. I tried to sand the wheel but it kept rumbling.
My question is: how to get a new idler wheel. Are there still wheels around or do I have to send the old wheel in to have it re-rubbered?
Click to expand...

You didn't need to replace the entire motor - just the pulley. :)

Dual hasn't made idler wheels in decades. Send it off to Terry's Rubber Rollers .
 
It was easier to get a new motor than the capstan. Only the 16 RPM tip was bended so I cut it off.
I think I send Terry a mail for a quote.
I'm not sure if the 1019 and the 1010 share the same wheel. There are a lot of variables, diameter of wheel and shaft, length of the bearing, position of the wheel on the bearing etc.
 
It might be that you did not sand the idler sufficiently. More than once, I've had to take one down 1/64th ~ 1/32nd or so of an inch before hitting "good rubber". Accomplished via a variable speed electric drill, fine grit paper and a sanding block.
 
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