Fixing Marantz 1060 power amp - Right channel

[Homer4beer]

Oh, and if you will be taking the board out again, careful with the bias diodes (on the heatsink, wired to the board) their leads are quite fragile and often break off right at the diode body...

Yep I watched Maxxarcade do a bit of a restoration of a 1060 on Youtube and he mentioned it, so I was very careful not to bend them too much

 

[Steven Tate]

I've been watching this thread to try to learn a bit. Nice job and kudos on your persistence!

 

[Homer4beer]

I've been watching this thread to try to learn a bit. Nice job and kudos on your persistence!

Thanks Steve.

I've learnt a LOT since I got this amp for free and it didn't work.

Due all the fantastic help in the forum I've managed to build a dim bulb tester, trace the original amp issue to a bridge rectifier (learning all about them and what they do in the process) and get it working.

Now I've been very fortunate to now have great guidance in finding out why the amp went pear shaped and then manage you fix it

 

[Bert 1100]

What I mean is that my photos are high-Res until AK resizes them to much smaller. Maybe the trick is to have the photos not multi-megabite before uploading them to AK ?

 

[Homer4beer]

Bert what I do is upload my pics to a photo service then use image tags and the direct link to the image.

So the image is like this. ....
(

)


Take out the () then it will work.

Edit: hmm didn't work. I'll fix tomorrow

 

[willyrover]

At this stage I'm just going to replace these with what I can find just to get it running again and order the required components to do a full recap of the amp when I'm on holidays (2 weeks time).

Correct the fault- then work on the rebuilt. That's the best way to go.

I have started keeping used capacitors that still test good exactly for this purpose. Pick up one of these component testers on eBay - around $15 - and whenever you recap or rebuild a board, test the parts and keep the good ones. Saves using new parts for troubleshooting.

I have a couple of these. On one of them I soldered short clip leads to those pads on the board for testing larger components that won't fit in the ZIF socket. For ESR just subtract the resistance of the leads.

 

[Bob]

burn-in: just hook up speakers, music and play the amp. doesn't have to be LOUD
just to break-in the new caps. the music gets better with time. look for between 20-100
hours OR you could just use it as you normally would.

glad I could help - and before the burn-in deniers hit your thread. once they do
no one contributes any more. they start with why your ears hear the wrong things.

good luck with the unit - should work another thousand years.