Hey,
Let me but-in on this thread for a minute.
I had one of these 9191's that needed fix'en back when I wasn't sure what I was doing. Now I still don't know what I'm doing but that first one and a second I picked up a few weeks ago are getting the service and repair they needed.
The recap list is going to make a great thread for this fantastic Deck. I'll see if I can help out. No promises. Pretty busy lately.
The deck's got rebuilt clutches, de-magged the heads, new rubber tires and belts. Deoxed and Fader lubed.
Replaced the incandescent with warm white LED's. I'm still thinking about the tape indicator lamp. Not sure what LED could fit in that shallow space. Edit: got it.
They sound great.
Thanks Mark for the clutch service.
One last thought. Recapping this beast would be a chore. I'm thinking eight hours or so of labor
Back to the important thread.
Let me but-in on this thread for a minute.
I had one of these 9191's that needed fix'en back when I wasn't sure what I was doing. Now I still don't know what I'm doing but that first one and a second I picked up a few weeks ago are getting the service and repair they needed.
The recap list is going to make a great thread for this fantastic Deck. I'll see if I can help out. No promises. Pretty busy lately.
The deck's got rebuilt clutches, de-magged the heads, new rubber tires and belts. Deoxed and Fader lubed.
Replaced the incandescent with warm white LED's. I'm still thinking about the tape indicator lamp. Not sure what LED could fit in that shallow space. Edit: got it.
They sound great.
Thanks Mark for the clutch service.
One last thought. Recapping this beast would be a chore. I'm thinking eight hours or so of labor
Back to the important thread.
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Recap the power supply. That would be the immediate job. The rest could wait.
The deck is getting old so a list would be beneficial going forward.
I’m still finding cassettes at yard and estate sales. Some cassettes sound crappy but many sound great. It’s fun to listen to the old technology and there is tons of old content that’s not yet streaming.
The deck is getting old so a list would be beneficial going forward.
I’m still finding cassettes at yard and estate sales. Some cassettes sound crappy but many sound great. It’s fun to listen to the old technology and there is tons of old content that’s not yet streaming.
I agree.
The boards look like a pocket transistor radio. Lots packed in to a small space.
UPW's would be fine in the power supply and solenoid control circuits.
The films (Like Mark said) might not fit in the spaces where E-caps laid. The modern through-hole films are 5mm leg spacing.
The boards look like a pocket transistor radio. Lots packed in to a small space.
UPW's would be fine in the power supply and solenoid control circuits.
The films (Like Mark said) might not fit in the spaces where E-caps laid. The modern through-hole films are 5mm leg spacing.
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I wonder if there's any films that have smaller lead spacing. Might have a look later, or just look at the actual boards and see if I can figure out whether 5mm might fit. I do want to get the rubber replaced and clutch working properly before I start messing with anything else, so I'll have to figure out how to get to that drive tire. The rest doesn't seem too hard.
I used to post the board number, part number, value, bom data for special considerations, replacement part number, replacement part values (uf/V). PER component.
I could then reference what they used and what the potential replacement was per component, in just a few seconds per component.
The tougher ones took me directly to the schematic, and then maybe to reverse engineering.
Cross referencing each component above takes more than a minute each, does not supply exact intent, and I do NOT have hours to vet a list.
I could then reference what they used and what the potential replacement was per component, in just a few seconds per component.
The tougher ones took me directly to the schematic, and then maybe to reverse engineering.
Cross referencing each component above takes more than a minute each, does not supply exact intent, and I do NOT have hours to vet a list.
This is pretty good. It's an image, so I can't inhale it on a spreadsheet... You have my email address, how about emailing me the spreadsheet?.
Special considerations are like rwf-041 c102 "rch-017".
I won't be back until much later tonight.
Special considerations are like rwf-041 c102 "rch-017".
I won't be back until much later tonight.
So I've started replacing the rubber and had to take off the faceplate while chasing down a stray e-clip (found it though!). Decided to deox the buttons while the front was off and here's what I found in the position of the missing button:
Not sure how evident it is from the picture, but the button appears to have been snapped off with the post that it goes on, which means it's not gonna be as easy as just replacing the button. Has anyone encountered this before? I'm wondering if I can just replace the white plastic part instead of the whole button component, since that's gonna be a pain to get out. Not even sure if I can find a replacement for the whole thing, anyway. I'm hesitant to just glue another button on since I'd rather do it right, but that's an option if all else fails.
Not sure how evident it is from the picture, but the button appears to have been snapped off with the post that it goes on, which means it's not gonna be as easy as just replacing the button. Has anyone encountered this before? I'm wondering if I can just replace the white plastic part instead of the whole button component, since that's gonna be a pain to get out. Not even sure if I can find a replacement for the whole thing, anyway. I'm hesitant to just glue another button on since I'd rather do it right, but that's an option if all else fails.
I might have a entire switch.
The white slider is removable but you would have to have access to the board. You couldn’t swap the slider in the board mounted position.
The slider has small spring loaded contacts that pop out when the slider is removed.
The board can be accessed by removing the two PCB screws and the two face screws that are part of the switch assembly.
PM me and I’ll look for a switch this afternoon.
The white slider is removable but you would have to have access to the board. You couldn’t swap the slider in the board mounted position.
The slider has small spring loaded contacts that pop out when the slider is removed.
The board can be accessed by removing the two PCB screws and the two face screws that are part of the switch assembly.
PM me and I’ll look for a switch this afternoon.
OK, belts are replaced, rewind clutch is repaired and back in. The good news is that with the new belts playback seems to be playing at a good speed now. Tape counter is also working thanks to lube from MTF, so thanks for that! The bad news is that I'm still seeing the issue I was seeing before with rewind/FF. It'll start, barely move (seems like it's trying to but can't) and then disengage a second later. I can hear a squeaking sound, I think from the rubber contacting something, but I can't see inside very well to see if anything is engaging or not. I can see that the FF motor is turning, but maybe it's not touching the wheel it should be? I will note I didn't replace the tire on the idler because it still seems to be good, and frankly the tires are a pain to get off. What should my next steps be here? Any other troubleshooting measures I can take or things I should take a look at? Thanks.
Lowetlx
Active Member
What does your spring look like that pulls down on the lever on the arm for the idler? Is it stretched out or weak? If you set the unit in it’s side, take the transport out and set it in the bench you can run the tape and watch the mechanism better. Then you can push down very gently on the arm With a screw driver. If it gets traction then you know you need more spring tension on the arm
did you replace the rubber ON the ff/rew motor shaft?
That can get ground down by a resistant clutch.
It would reduce greatly the torque available for the two functions.
+1 on Allan72, pull the counter belt and try again.
That can get ground down by a resistant clutch.
It would reduce greatly the torque available for the two functions.
+1 on Allan72, pull the counter belt and try again.
Nothing different appears to happen if I put more pressure on the idler arm. Taking the small belt off also doesn't fix the problem, but I'm a little confused by that advice. Is it supposed to be moving? Neither of the thinner belts are moving right now when I put it in rewind. I did replace the rubber on the ff/rw motor shaft, and it is engaging the rewind idler. I'm wondering if I reassembled it wrong, even with the pictures I took before I took it apart. Right now, the arm from solenoid next to the ff/rew motor is between the piece of metal above it and the rewind clutch arm. However, I see holes in both the piece above it and the clutch arm - is the solenoid arm supposed to go in one or both of those holes?
Lowetlx
Active Member
It sounds like it’s put together correct. The arm on the solenoid does not go into the holes on the idler or the bar that runs a over the top with the brake shoes on it. When solenoid is activated the bar is lifted up, and takes the brake shoes off the hubs. the spring pressure pulling down on the idler lever allows the idler to move up hitting the ffwd motor tire. The v shape in the idler arm allows the idler to tilt over towards either hub depending on if you chose ffwd or rewind. When running ffwd or rewind does the idler clutch spin? Do the hubs spin smoothly and easily.
The clutch is spinning along with the ff/rewind motor. It seems like the rubber on the clutch isn't contacting the white plastic wheels on either side of it, or at least they're not spinning. I'm guessing the clutch itself isn't the problem since Mark fixed that up and said it did well in testing, and he definitely has a better idea of how it should behave than I do. Is it possible the wheels are the problem? They don't seem to spin easily, but I'm not sure how they're supposed to behave. Maybe it's worth replacing the rubber on the clutch to see what happens.